odaen Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 What kinda carbs should i run i was thinkin like 35mm air strykers Heres what all i think ill need,tell me if i miss somethin Cub Cylinders 68mm bore,aggressive dune port,4mil Weisco Crank,longer rods,Hot cam,Weisco forged pistons,all the seal,gaskets ect.Noss cool head with 17 or 18cc dome which ever are betrer,VForce3 reeds,cases ported,crank trued and welded,35mm air strykers with k&n pods and outerwears +4 swingarm. One thing you need to understand is that out of the box, they have drag port timings already, so the dune port thing goes out the window unless you wanna deck your cylinders. I'm not sure what a Hot Cam is, hoping it's a typo. The Hot Rods 4mm long rod crank comes trued and welded from the factory, but have been known to separate with the factory welds. The +4 swingarm is gonna be way to small if you hook up on the surface you'll be riding on. Based on some of the stuff you put in here, I'd recommend just getting a set of dune ported stock cylinders. You will be much happier and have a better "all around" motor that can kick the shit out of most bikes, yet not be a pain in the ass to try and ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquedfire Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 the cost of a cub motor is more then a good used banshee LOL :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 You could easily spend 3500 to 4000 on the COMPLETE setup. Including new carbs, intakes... And I didn't see the mention of pipes anywhere. +6 swinger would be better.... Better paddles than what your stocker ran with. Clutch, basket, inner and outer hub... Have a reputable builder re-weld the crank, etc., etc., etc., All in all...I've at about 3500 or so with mine, and still not done. You can save a few bucks by looking for used pipes, used carbs, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 What kinda carbs should i run i was thinkin like 35mm air strykers Heres what all i think ill need,tell me if i miss somethin Cub Cylinders 68mm bore,aggressive dune port,4mil Weisco Crank,longer rods,Weisco forged pistons,all the seal,gaskets ect.Noss cool head with 17 or 18cc dome which ever are betrer,VForce3 reeds,cases ported,crank trued and welded,35mm air strykers with k&n pods and outerwears +4 swingarm. If you want a "dune" port what you can do is order the stock cubs and run them with a 4mil stroker crank with some domes, that will drop your port timing down more to where it would be on a dune bike. I ran mine like that for a while and it was ok, but I do more up-top stuff so got a cub cast for the 4mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeseat$$ Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Whats the average cost of a 68mm 4mil stroker motor,with an agressive dune port,that may be a little too specific? You don't even want to know what I got into mine.LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 I think I spent darn near $2k just to convert my motor from a +4mm stock cylinder stroker to a 68mm bore +4mm cheatah cub stroker with all the junk I needed besides just the $1050 cylinders and pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 (edited) People don't realize that there is more to it than just bolting on the new cylinders and going down the road. Yes, you can do it that way but you won't be taking advantage of the power to cub has on tap. Cub cylinder carbs intakes better pipes in some cases (ISC) head w/ domes ISC reeds ISC You should probably replace seals, bearings and o-rings since you are already spending that much money on the thing. New clutch, maybe lockup new tires/wheels ISC different sprockets extended swingarm gaskets new crank might as well get a billet impeller while you are in there if you don't have one labor if you have it done.... Just like the people above said... its a big investment so you better have a pretty hefty bank account or some good credit limits before you start, because once you do you are going to have the fever. Edited July 13, 2006 by BigRed350x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 That's exactly right...that's why I said COMPLETE setup.... It's some of the little things that will get you, as red said. Why go through all this and not get a seal kit, replace them all. Crank seals, shift shaft seal, etc. Also...since you're gonna be making some ponies, get the heavier duty bearings for the crank. I already had a great clutch in mine, but...the stock basket. So...I got a new aftermarket (stronger) basket and new inner and outer for it as well. You're not just building a motor... You need the chassis (shock and longer swingarm) and the other odds and ends as listed to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 I figure I have close to $10,000 in my bike as it sits right now, mind you thats including the 3500.00 I paid for the bike itself, horse power is not cheap, make sure you are gonna be using the motor for what it is designed for and that you are not just buying it to say, "I have a 100hp cub motor in my trail bike" I ended up buying another bike cause mine was way to much for trail riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 That's a damn good point as well, JT. I think I'm up around 7500 to 8000 into mine, including purchase price. When I bought mine, it was bone stock except for removed TORS, clamp on K&N's and a durablue axle. I thought if I kept stock carbs and T5 pipes on this cub motor it would be trail worthy. WRONG.... Don't get me wrong, it probably could be...but, turning a +6 swinger isn't easy...and you'd have to find wide open flat trails for it to be any fun. Like JT told me, we went to some trails up north from both of us. Just as the bike was getting on the pipe, he was locking up the brakes to keep it out of the trees. I've learned a valuable lesson. Hate to say it, but after this summer, I'm looking for a 450 4 stroke as my trail and play bike. With just a cam, pipe, jet kit and air filter, they are fun, fast, reliable...and suspended leaps and bounds better than a banshee out of the box. I'm actually surprised JT went with another shee for his play bike, but...he probably has so many parts laying around, it just made sense... My shee will be strictly a drag and dune bike, where it belongs... I saw JT's bike run before he put on a lockup, override and alky on it. It was flat out impressive...which concreted the engine choice I made, and the man to buy it from!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 I will ride mine on some pretty good trails around rock springs, but I'm only on the pipe for about 2-3 seconds then I have to let off and get on the brakes. Yeah, you can ride them on trails but it would be dumb. You wouldn't ever be able to open it up like its meant to be ridden. Only time I open mine up on our trails is when I hit one of the big-ass hill climbs. I'm hoping to get some video this afternoon of our "trails" and me going up one of the huge hills for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 I will ride mine on some pretty good trails around rock springs, but I'm only on the pipe for about 2-3 seconds then I have to let off and get on the brakes. Yeah, you can ride them on trails but it would be dumb. You wouldn't ever be able to open it up like its meant to be ridden. Only time I open mine up on our trails is when I hit one of the big-ass hill climbs. I'm hoping to get some video this afternoon of our "trails" and me going up one of the huge hills for everyone. Yeah...notice the picture in his sig...and the fact he rides there just about every day. To say I'm jealous would be the understatement of the year... :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Ya, it's kind of a chain reaction, you get the cub then you need to upgrade this, then upgrade that, then upgrade this because you upgraded that................ :baseball_wacko: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 so let me make a recap on this thread, and please anyone tell me if im wrong. a cub cylinder had a more agressive port right out of the box than most stock cylinders which have also been posted. some would even say a cub is drag ported right out of the box. a cub cylinder is not really suited for trail riding or just general mucking around becuase of how high in the rpm range it needs to be revved before it makes power. the reason i say this is because i do alot of woods and dunes riding in alot of places where i am speed limited by things like tree stumps and really sharp turns. but i also so dome drag racing now and then on the straightaways against other 4 wheelers and somtimes cars. i also take little kids on rides like 6 -10 year olds and just putt in 3rd to 4th gear around the trails and hills. when i have a kid onboard i dont even get the engine into its powerband. dont want to throw them off the side of i turn too quick. i would say 60% of my riding is technical riding where i cant go very fast because of obsticles. 30% is wide open drag racing, and 10% is slow riding with a 9 year old sitting in front of me. i would like some extra power for when i am drag racing or in the open areas where i am free to haul ass. so, would a cub be a good cylinder for me? or should i just get the stockers ported? i realise the cub isnt going to help me in the woods because im limited not by power ut by obsticles. but is a cub going to take away from my trail riding fun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 You'd be wasting your money on a cub, IMO. I had a similar idea...and I only ride fast trails and dunes. I skipped the trail idea... Your money would be much better spent getting a dune port on the stock cylinders, freshen up the top end, and get your stock crank welded if you haven't already. I tried to choke a cub down with T5s and Stock carbs...it's just not worth it IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.