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what do your plugs look like running 100to one or 50 to one

 

 

Perfect. Light cardboard in color. I used the 100:1 at 80:1, and my buddy uses the same in his modified banshee.

 

I run 32:1 Amsoil Synthetic, but thinking of going up to 40:1

 

 

Doesn't the bottle say right on it to mix at 50:1? The oil manufacturer dictates what ratio to run the oil at, based on the properties of the oil.

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the guy who sold me my shee told me to run it at 10:1 :baseball_shocked: at least i know it's been lubed really well lol. FYI the manual says to run 24:1 on yamalube, and 20:1 on castrol r30, a545, a747 on a stock motor.

--matt

 

I guess you could look at it that way, but you could also look at it from the angle that it has probably run hotter all that time. The gas also provides some cooling, because a rich oil mix ratio, also means a leaner fuel ratio. Leaner = hotter... so. I believe Yamalube is a 100% petroleum base? correct me if I'm wrong. Like fastcar01 said, the manufacturer of the OIL sets the mix ratio based on how the oil performs at different ratios. Believe me if a manufacturer says it's safe at a certain ratio, they've tested it to be safe.

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I run amsoil interceptor at anywhere from 40:1 to 32:1 I just dump some in the ratio-rite until it gets up around there and stop.

 

 

I am not trying to be smart here, but do you disregard all instructions, or just on oil? I also run Interseptor (in my race sled I run Dominator), except I run it how it is supposed to be ran, at 50:1. Read the bottle, it says right on it how to mix. Injection or 50:1 pre-mix.

 

I am not sure why you would run all that oil, it is just wasting money and horsepower. The 32:1 (and richer) and such is for natural oils, and old oils. New synthetic oil has way better lubrication properties, therefore it can be ran at a much lower ratio.

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well i went to "the" bike machine shop here in town and asked about the oil. they've been building 2 strokes mainly for racing for the last 20yrs and here's what they told me!

 

"whatever it says on the oil bottle to mix it at, run that!" (which i know was already mentioned in this thread) they also said AMSoil isn't a good oil, barbol <sp?> is what they recommend. they also said on a STOCK engine NOT racing, to stay at 32:1 for engine longevity. they said it's "pretty safe," to run 50:1 on a stock/not raced engine, but expect top end jobs more often.

 

so since i'm stock, not racing, and still have a jug of AMSoil left, i'm mixing it up at ~45 to 50:1...i'm doing a top end in the fall/winter in any case.

 

--matt

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I guess you could look at it that way, but you could also look at it from the angle that it has probably run hotter all that time. The gas also provides some cooling, because a rich oil mix ratio, also means a leaner fuel ratio. Leaner = hotter... so. I believe Yamalube is a 100% petroleum base? correct me if I'm wrong. Like fastcar01 said, the manufacturer of the OIL sets the mix ratio based on how the oil performs at different ratios. Believe me if a manufacturer says it's safe at a certain ratio, they've tested it to be safe.

 

 

thats simply not true. lets take klotz benol for example. they dont know what engine you rer using the oil in. how do they know if youre using the oil in a weed wacker or a drag quad?

 

they simnply dont. so they list a general guide on the back of their bittle.

 

 

yamaha on the other hand, knows how much premix is nessassary for proper lubrication of their banshee. and because of this they state tat you need to to run a really high mix ratio, unless youre using a good oil, when you can run a little bit lower mix ratio, but it still needs to be relatively high for the banshee.

 

 

klots, amsoil, mobil, etc, dont know what engine their oil is going into. only the engine maker knows what permix ratio to use, and thats why yamaha says 25:1.

 

most permix oil bottles even say to follow the engine makers guidelines for permix ratios.

 

look if you guys want to run 40:1 or 100:1 and burn youre motors up in a couple seasons then thats youre prolem, not mine, and not yamahas problem wither.

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For years I ran the Amsoil 100:1 oil, but I did just what the bottle said and mixed it at 80:1, which is their recommendation for a race engine. It also says on the bottle, that at 100:1 it provides the lubrication required for all two stroke engines from 1963 to present. Likewise the Dominator/Interceptor says to mix at 50:1, which will provide the lubrication necessary. Now this next comment is just for the guys running Amsoil, if you have an older engine in your Banshee (a custom job with an engine older than 1963) it is probably a good idea to mix it a little richer, but if you are running a Yamaha 350 engine (the kind that comes in a Banshee) it is fine to use at the 50:1.

 

You can run more and I guess it may be safer, but not necessary. It hurts you I am sure. The best way to prove this, is to simpy take some oil and dump it on the ground then some gas, light both of them on fire and watch the difference. Why would you want all that oil?

 

The guys running other brands, like Klotz, or Benoil, or Yamalube, you should mix it at the 32:1 or whatever it says. I stress again, the oil manufacturer says what to mix their oil at.

 

About the comment of Amsoil being a bad oil, I have heard that as well, from some people, and I have heard others (liek myself) who love it. I think it is a metter of opinion.

 

About the manufacturer comment, they do tell you what to run the ratio at, assuming you are using Yamalube. Really if you want to play by the books, you should run Yamalube only.

 

In all reality, I have ran enignes at 18:1 up to 100:1 and their is not much difference excpet the more oil the more you foul plugs. Maybee a difference on a dyno, never tried.

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I am not trying to be smart here, but do you disregard all instructions, or just on oil? I also run Interseptor (in my race sled I run Dominator), except I run it how it is supposed to be ran, at 50:1. Read the bottle, it says right on it how to mix. Injection or 50:1 pre-mix.

 

I am not sure why you would run all that oil, it is just wasting money and horsepower. The 32:1 (and richer) and such is for natural oils, and old oils. New synthetic oil has way better lubrication properties, therefore it can be ran at a much lower ratio.

 

I've had banshees since 87, do all my own engine work, and get more top end life out of them than most people who ride as hard as I do. If the container told you to go fuck your mom would you? Don't think so. Mix your shit however you want. Mine runs fine and I'm happy with how much time I get out of a top end so I don't give a fuck what people think about how I do things.

 

After approx 70-75hrs. No cleaning AT ALL before pictures were taken, that's how they came out of the top end.

DSC00050.jpg

 

DSC00051.jpg

 

DSC00034.jpg

Edited by BigRed350x
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You are too rich. There is way too much piston wash there. I guess you would get good life running a motor like that.

 

Have you ever heard of piston wash?

 

Here is a pic:

 

 

 

Now if this is your first experience with wash I am not going to go into detail, this pic is a generalization to remain on the safe side. I would consider this a good trail wash. On a race machine I run them inbetween the right and middle one. Needless to say I monitor EGT's and take regualr plug readings as well, as I run them on the ragged edge. Your piston has more wash that the rich one in the pic.

 

"After approx 70-75hrs. No cleaning AT ALL before pictures were taken, that's how they came out of the top end." No shit, just look at the wash.

 

No offense here but I think you are getting kind of cocky and I don't think you know all you think you do.

 

The good news about this, is it looks like you can do some tuning and make that machine faster!!!!

 

It depends on what you are using it for, but it looks like you are too rich for anything.

 

Do a search on piston wash.

 

I hope this is OK to post: This is from CPC Racings web site. This is a good intro to piston wash:

 

"After you have about two hours of test time on your engine, then pull your spark plugs and by using a cylinder bore light, inspect the carbon deposits on top of the crown of each piston. This inspection is called reading the "Wash". As air/fuel mixture comes up the transfer ports, this mixture has a tendency to wash the carbon off the top of the piston if it is too rich. If the fuel mixture is too lean then the heat of the engine will bake carbon deposits on to the top of each piston. By reading the "wash" expert tuners can determine if the air/fuel mixture is too lean or too rich. Adjustments on jetting should be made according to what air/fuel mixture makes your engine run right and this is determined by reading the wash. If your EGT's readings say that your engine is running too lean, but the wash on your piston says it is too rich, then always use the reading of the wash to determine what the jetting should be. Remember that the EGT's are just a tool to monitor and aid you in your tunning. Don't be so paranoid about reading the EGT's that you fail to truly tune your engine. Reading the wash on the piston is best accomplished by lowering the piston down to bottom dead center, and with a cylinder bore light inspect the outer edge of the piston by looking down the spark plug hole. On a full radius dome piston, there should be about 1/2 of an inch of wash (no carbon) on the top of the piston at the area of the piston in front of each transfer port (see Figure #1). If carbon is burnt to the edge of the piston in this area, then the jetting is too lean. You should then increase your main jets a couple of sizes and/or adjust the E-clip/needle jet settings. If you find that there is no carbon attached to the outer edge of the piston for over an inch, then the jetting is too rich. An adjustment on the main jet and possibly the jet needle/needle jet circuit may need to be leaned."

Edited by fastcar01
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Hoo Hoo, johnny new guy found a picture and a description of something on some other web site and suddenly became a pro! Ha Ha Ha Ha!

 

Like I said before... run your shit how you want. I don't give a FUCK what you think about how I run mine. Last time I checked there was nothing wrong with being a little rich. Oh wait, I'm sorry, you are the professional, I guess I better ask you...

Edited by BigRed350x
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