Quint Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Hi I have done a few searches but as everyone has more mods than me i struggled to find much that was specific. I am at sea level in the UK running 32:1 with a stock 2004 banshee with a K&N with a pre charger in the standard box with the lid off. I have changed the plugs, and changed the jets to 240's. It runs not bad but i am worried its a bit lean on the power band its good and low done pull is much more responsive. Bad news idle is really high and and once it revs up it takes a bit for the revs to fall back down. It also hesitates slightly in the mid-range before the power band. I guess i need to move the needle clip a position or two? Sorry to ask a qustion that is asked all the time but i am new to all this and really dont want to break my shee. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 You do have the pro-flow adapter in place so the filter will bolt and seal to the front of the airbox, right? If not...stop now, get it. If so... Your mains should be fine with just a K&N and no lid. Try turning each of your airscrews in .5 to 1.0 turns. I doubt you'll have to richen up the needle...but if you do, bump the clip one spot richer (one towards the pointed end)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quint Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 No I dont have that thing, havent seen it for sale over here but was just going to modify the stock airbox lid so it still sealed and had a big hole in the lid. would that be ok? Ok i will do on the airscrews have already done a 1/2 turn in but is still idling really high with the choke in and really rough and low with the choke out like it almost doesnt need it even when starting from cold. Thanks for the help, its reassuring being able to check with people who know what they are doing!! Is there any tip for getting the cable lock out of the throttle slides? Clymers just says remove it, but doesnt seem to want to budge! Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 No I dont have that thing, havent seen it for sale over here but was just going to modify the stock airbox lid so it still sealed and had a big hole in the lid. would that be ok? Yep...perfect. Many people do that. Ok i will do on the airscrews have already done a 1/2 turn in but is still idling really high with the choke in and really rough and low with the choke out like it almost doesnt need it even when starting from cold. If the airfilter isn't sealed...this is going to happen. You're sucking air...big time. Is there any tip for getting the cable lock out of the throttle slides? Clymers just says remove it, but doesnt seem to want to budge! Do you mean the little metal clip in the slides? Are you squeezing the return spring all the way? That's what holds it in place. Compress the spring with your hands, tip the slide upside down, and shake it just a bit. It should fall out. Then, there's two small phillips screws holding the cable mount down. MAKE SURE you pay attention to how these come out. The hold in the mount should line up with the hole in top of the slide. that needs to vent or it'll be like your piston in the cylinder...not good for a carb... Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quint Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Yeah those are the bits i meant i tried that but will do what you said then try again tomorrow!! Thanks for all your advice! Big Help Should i drop the idle if it still seems a bit high?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 (edited) See...you have TORS adjusters on there, they make for a bit of a pain to work on them. I would first make sure (by looking down the backs of the carbs) they aren't getting stuck and are moving in unison. Once you start taking off the carb tops, they can go out of sync. Once you're sure they aren't sticking and are in sync, then you can adjust the idle a little. It shouldn't be off by far. I think once you seal up the filter and get the air screws properly adjusted, you'll find the idle shouldn't be off by far, if at all. By the way, you do NOT need to tighten down the carb caps with an adjustable wrench...just get them nice and snug by hand, then tighten down the brackets that prevent the caps from working themselves loose. If you tighten the caps down too much, then can stick as well. Good luck!!! Edited July 6, 2006 by dajogejr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quint Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Have you been watching me??? I used my pipe grips on them hahahah i will sort it out tomorrow! Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 Have you been watching me??? I used my pipe grips on them hahahah i will sort it out tomorrow! Thanks again. Normally...I learn from my own mistakes. Occasionally...I get to watch my friends make 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quint Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Righto... Update Idle is sorted pilots are about 1 turn out. anymore than that made it bog down on takeoff. Power is good apart from just before the powerband if i lift off and let it sit below in 5th it will really struggle to pull into the band but race through the revs and its fine if not slightly hesistant especially in the higher gears. But the biggest problem is it still will only start with a couple of squirts of fuel directly into the cylinder. I have searched on here loads and have tried almost all the suggestions. The Choke tube is in place and i only stripped the carbs down individually compression is 110psi and when its warm it fires first time like it did before the k&N arrived! My plugs are dark brown on the tips and it still hates the choke! Now this might be my problem but i am sure yu will tell me. The choke was stiff as .... before, so when i stripped the carbs down i lightly greased the choke assembly. could that be it, its the only thing i think i have done apart from change the jets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 Hey...Quint. I just browsed to this...sorry. What's your elevation? I beat the tar out of my bike all last year, it's a 96. It had the original top end... My quad needed 3 to 5 kicks when cold, w/ or w/o choke to start. I had about 110PSI in mine. Warmed up, started first kick. Ran great too. But...the bottom line as it was about due for a rebuild. The only other thing I would check, if you haven't already...is to make sure you didn't swap float bowls... One had the tube for the fuel enrichment circuit, the other doesn't. Good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
23champ Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 you may have to change the pilot jet. I forget what the stock piolt is...I think its a 25. If it is, try a 30. If its hard to start, you need to go up on your pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 30 will probably too rich. With stock pipes, I'd have a hard time thinking you need a bigger pilot, but if so, go slow to a 27.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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