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hard starting and lots of questions for new shee owner


Dan

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hello i just bought a 87 shee. and was wondering if 100 psi on each cylinder could be my hard starting problem? when its cold it takes me forever to start like 5 mins sometimes i just push start the damn thing! even when its warm sometimes, unfortunately when warm it will start right up and sometimes it wont. Im gonna try and buy new plugs it has b8es on it right now and they look fair. but they are cheap. i was using 90 octane this weekend and was wondering if that could have anything to do with it? how do i check my jets? i hear that can pose starting problems. and unfortunately i think my bottom seal or whatever is bad cause my crankcase oil is greyish does that mean coolant is getting in it? also my key doesnt work turning it to the off position yields no results. what is the problem here i tried checking the wires. how much play should be in my front bearings?

 

sorry for all the questions i dont have a haynes yet

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hello i just bought a 87 shee. and was wondering if 100 psi on each cylinder could be my hard starting problem? when its cold it takes me forever to start like 5 mins sometimes i just push start the damn thing! even when its warm sometimes, unfortunately when warm it will start right up and sometimes it wont. Im gonna try and buy new plugs it has b8es on it right now and they look fair. but they are cheap. i was using 90 octane this weekend and was wondering if that could have anything to do with it? how do i check my jets? i hear that can pose starting problems. and unfortunately i think my bottom seal or whatever is bad cause my crankcase oil is greyish does that mean coolant is getting in it? also my key doesnt work turning it to the off position yields no results. what is the problem here i tried checking the wires. how much play should be in my front bearings?

 

sorry for all the questions i dont have a haynes yet

 

First thing I can tell you is to try out the search feature up at the top. Every one of your questions have been addressed here before. But I will try and answer them the quick and dirty method for you here...

 

100psi is pretty low, depending on your altitude. I'm at 7500ft approx. and that is even low for here, so chances are you need a top end rebuild. When you get your new plugs get BR8ES plugs, with the R. Some bikes need the R some don't, it won't hurt it to run the R plugs if you don't need them, just a safety thing. It can hurt your CDI if you need them and don't run them. 90 octane gas would be fine since your compression is so low. That's not where your starting problem is comming from. Your jets are inside your carbs. Pull off the float bowls and you can see them in there. I made a little walk-through the other day for some new guy on how to clean your carbs, do a search on cleaning carbs and you will probably find it. That will show you what and where your jets are. The little o-ring on your coolant line that runs through your clutch cover is probably bad. Pull your clutch cover off and take a look at the o-rings on the coolant tube. Replace them just to be safe. Someone probably cut and sliced the key switch wires, follow the wires fromt he key all the way back to the CDI and see if they are cut. My key never worked so I ditched it for a switch. Lots easier if you ask me. Front bearings shouldn't have very much play at all, in fact I would say none. Check your front hub bolt and make sure it is torqued good.

 

Pick yourself up a Clymer manual for the banshee, it will cover every question you asked here and gives torque specs & information you need to work on your bike for the first time. They are $30 and one of the best investments you can get for your bike.

 

Get a new top end put in (easy easy stuff, I also made a walkthrough for that on here, do a search for splitting the cases and the top end teardown is in there) then we will worry about your jetting. Let us know what jets you have in there, where you ride (elevation) and we can get you going again. I wouldn't ride it too much until you get these things taken care of or you will just be making things worse farther on down the line.

 

- Jared

 

This will show you how to tear down your top end.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...tting+the+cases

 

On the picture that says "Here's a side shot of the clutch assembly." above it you can see the little o-ring I was talking about.

Edited by BigRed350x
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hey 100psi is low on your compression, it would start better when warm because your rings expand when hot, 90 octane gas is crap get 94 or higher always. if the pilots jets are cloged it wont start easy but try some new gas first,if not take the bowls off the carbs an clean with carb cleaner spray all the gas passages or take the main an pilots out an spray with compressed air. if you think your wheel bearings are bad they proubaly are you can tell by spinning your wheel.your crankcase is dirty from your clutch change your oil :beer:

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hey 100psi is low on your compression, it would start better when warm because your rings expand when hot, 90 octane gas is crap get 94 or higher always. if the pilots jets are cloged it wont start easy but try some new gas first,if not take the bowls off the carbs an clean with carb cleaner spray all the gas passages or take the main an pilots out an spray with compressed air. if you think your wheel bearings are bad they proubaly are you can tell by spinning your wheel.your crankcase is dirty from your clutch change your oil :beer:

 

Your clutch won't make your oil turn gray. If it doesn there is something wrong with your clutch. LOL Getting moisture in your oil makes it gray, he probably has a coolant leak. Lots of places don't even sell 94 octane. You can't get 94 anywhere in the rockies. Best you can find around here is 91 to 93. At these elevations though you don't need 94. 91 will do just fine up to 155psi. Above that you need to run 50/50 race gas or 100% race gas.

 

Don't worry about playing with jetting until you get compression up (rebuild top end). Jetting won't make much of a difference if you engine won't run in the first place. The more you run it the worse it is going to get. A top end rebuild kit is only $100-150 for these bikes, that's gaskets, circlips, pistons, bearings, wristpins, rings, everything you need. If you need an overbore it can get a little more pricy, but if you stop running it and tear it down and inspect it chances are you can get away with just a hone. Tear it down and give us some pictures of your cylinder walls and we can let you know.

 

- Jared

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I've yet to fine a better deal on a top end kit.

 

You need to either tear it down or have it torn down before ordering pistons. Your machine shop should be able to tell you how much bigger pistons you can go with, buy the kit, and bring the pistons to the machine shop so they can match the bore.

I should note...only get the size you need. If you need .020 and buy a .080 over kit, you've wasted a few good bores. Normally, a .010 bore job will do each time, unless you really fudged something up!!

 

Here you go:

 

http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

Edited by dajogejr
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