dajogejr Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Wiseco has Long Rod Stroker Pistons designed to go with the 5mm long rod and 4mm stoker, no head work or case work needed.. Yes, it's the 795 series piston. I'm not 100% sure if you have to get the head cut or not... I think you do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 You will have to get the head cut, even if you use the 795 series Wiseco's. These pistons, only make up for the added length of the rod, and not the added stroke of the crank. Your pistons will still come out the top of the cylinders 2mm, and hit the head, if you don't have it machined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuster11 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Do you still have to get the head cut when you run that spacer that goes on the bottom side of the jugs? I thought that if you ran that then you didn't have to get porting work done and/or cut the heads. Please remember I am running the Cool Head with 22 cc domes. So if I get the 5 mil long rod and 4 mil stroker with the wiseco 795 series pistons will the spacer work? And what about those carbs? Do I have to get bigger ones? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 If you run the spacer, you are correct... Don't mistake cc dome size for clearance of the piston...squish angle and cc volume are two different things. Sure, they relate to each other...but...ok, anyways. Yes...if you get the spacer, you're fine on porting and squish... Stock carbs will work. You're missing out on power with stock carbs...on top end. To be honest...you're spending money on a stroker crank, new pistons, etc. Now is the time to port it anyways...carbs can wait. I'd get porting done while it's apart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Wiesco says that the 5mm long rod and 4 mil stroker needs gasket #W6093 (which is thicker than oem base gaskets) and that no head work or case work needed.. The proDesign should work no problem, the only time you gotta worry about it is if you go BIG BORE, then you'll have to get big bore domes! I say port it though while you got her apart.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Wiesco says that the 5mm long rod and 4 mil stroker needs gasket #W6093 (which is thicker than oem base gaskets) and that no head work or case work needed.. I would double check the facts on that... I can't see how a few thousands base gasket will compensate for a 2mm offset and keep the pistons from smacking the head. That gasket would have to be .080 to compensate for the added stroke...I've never heard of such a thick base gasket... I'm not saying your wrong...I'm just saying check with Wiseco to make sure that gasket is in fact .080...oh, then add another .010 since it'll compress a little... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01bansheeke Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 the plate is lame...just have yourself a custom set of domes made...your going to want a coolhead anyway if you don't already have one. I personally would stay right around where you are(21cc) and keep running pump gas unless for some reason you want to run race gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 the plate is lame...just have yourself a custom set of domes made...your going to want a coolhead anyway if you don't already have one. I personally would stay right around where you are(21cc) and keep running pump gas unless for some reason you want to run race gas. I agree... For the price it'll cost you to get your head rechambered, it'll worth buying a NOSS head that will seal better with O Rings, run your shee cooler due to the deflectors built in...and of course, there's the trick factor...they sure do look nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 I would double check the facts on that... I can't see how a few thousands base gasket will compensate for a 2mm offset and keep the pistons from smacking the head. That gasket would have to be .080 to compensate for the added stroke...I've never heard of such a thick base gasket... I'm not saying your wrong...I'm just saying check with Wiseco to make sure that gasket is in fact .080...oh, then add another .010 since it'll compress a little... I just sent wieco an emai regarding the subject. I did forget to ask them about after market heads... I feel the spacer is for a less expensive route of not having to have port work done, these cranks are drop in's for the stock banshee. The way I see it drop it in, enjoy the power increase then when you get "use" to the power, remove the spacer or gasket which ever, then get the port work and all the other goodies you can think of.... I'll post wiesco response if and when I hear from them... later, Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuster11 Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 the plate is lame...just have yourself a custom set of domes made...your going to want a coolhead anyway if you don't already have one. I personally would stay right around where you are(21cc) and keep running pump gas unless for some reason you want to run race gas. I already have a Cool Head on it with 22 cc domes. Can I get a set of domes that will already be recessed to accomadate for the 2 mil longer stroke or would I need to machine the step in the head 2 mil? As for the porting does this consist of elongating the intake and exhaust ports 2 mil upwards? Does this have to be done at a machine shop? Or can it be done with alot of patience and a die grinder? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 I am in the process of building a 5mm hot rod +4mm stroke engine. I asked a bunch of questions and got a response that pretty much said take your domes and cut them .080 inch in from the current shoulder and cut the profile starting at a 14 deg angle. CC them after each try and adjust the angle to get the dome size you want. Repeat for the 2nd one. I am a machinist by trade and like the idea of doing any fabricating or porting myself. I have since cut 3 sets of domes for my cool head. Its pretty simple once you get the locator plug set up in the lathe. Get the threads fully seated and run an indicator on the face and Inner Diameter. If they are within .0005 TIR cut it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 I am a machinist by trade and like the idea of doing any fabricating or porting myself. I have since cut 3 sets of domes for my cool head. That's good info... However...and don't take this the wrong way... Just because you can cut on a machine, doesn't mean you have the knowledge on how porting cylinders works... However...I know RaceTech or RaceLogic (not sure which) have port maps that allow you to port cylinders off their specs and measurements. Now...how good of a port job that is...who knows. But, I'd bet it's a good starting point to a learning curve...vs. starting up all by yourself... I don't like the spacer plate. But, porting and machining cost money. So...for the quick, easy and simple answer (and cheaper... ) yes, use the plate for now. When you have the money and time, then get it done right...a good port job will really compliment that stroker motor!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 I make a lot of domes for the 795 kits. Cutting the total step .114" (adding 2mm) is usually a safe way to go but can give you too much squish clearance robbing you of low rpm power. Getting a deck height measurement after assembling everything except the head will let you get the domes exactly right. I've had many of them end up with .010" to .015" less than a true 2mm deck height. I think the kits come with two head gaskets and a top spacer plate so you can use your stock head if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuster11 Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 How about getting the Jugs/Cyclinders Ported? Since the Plate is "Lame" might as well do it right while it's apart. But I am really wanting to ride this thing. So trying to balance those two is there a place that can do a good porting job in the South Texas Area? Or even in Texas? If not who else? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Any big named shops are busy right now, period. I fully understand the wanting to ride it soon...dying to get saddle time on mine right now. Call around...get comfortable with a builder, and see what their turn around time is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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