rkc Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Has any body ever tried pre heating your cylinder walls to help eliminate fuel condensation.I've read a lot of post asking for help on poor starting cold machines. I suspect most are due to improper jetting from all types of mods.This past weekend I had my typical 35 kick cold start (kicked the cat a few time in between too), but after it's warm it feel like a different quad. It starts 1st time every time.I think I've come up with a way to do it which would be like heaven if it works.Just looking for some feed back from the more experienced! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 with the choke out in the dead of winter it was like 8 kicks if that after sitting for a month. you might need to look at your pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastCoast Banshee Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Yep try your pilot... i went 4 months after a nasty wreck and it started on the 3rd kick. This was during the winter also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 if you've read lots of posts about cold start problems, i'm assuming you've made sure the carb bowls aren't switched and the crossover tube is on, and compression is good. that being the case, i'd agree and say start with the pilot jet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkc Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 thanks, I'll try one size larger to a 30 I'm at 27.5 now. 4 mods I just did 1. 4 degree timing advance 2. fatty pipes 3. pro design filter with air box completely cut away 4. tors removal every thing else is right, compression ,carbs,electrical runs good when it starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastCoast Banshee Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 with those mods i would think you need to be at the stock pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkc Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 I know each machine has it's own corks mine started hard from day one (bought it used) I always wondered if to much carbon deposits cause hard starts.I don,t know what previous owner ran, but I run 40:1 mobil 2 stroke synth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 i wouldnt put a 30 in it will be too rich mostly and smoke like a bitch. is your compression still good?? what psi you getting?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 thanks, I'll try one size larger to a 30 I'm at 27.5 now. 4 mods I just did 1. 4 degree timing advance 2. fatty pipes 3. pro design filter with air box completely cut away 4. tors removal every thing else is right, compression ,carbs,electrical runs good when it starts. Have you tried turning your air screws in at all? Like, .25 to .5 out from seated? FMFs do like a fatter pilot...but if you ask FMF they say 32.5...sorry...no way Jose... I'd bet if you put that 30 in, turned out the screw 1.0 turns out...it'll be better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkc Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 I sure didn't know you could shut down the air screw that much! thanks for your suggestions I'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Oh yeah...you can for testing/tuning...but, you don't want to leave it there. If you have to turn it in that much, you need a larger (richer) pilot. And generally, if it's more than 2.5 to 3.0 turns out...you need a smaller (leaner) pilot... If it runs significantly better barely turned out at all, bigger pilot time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkc Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Dajogejr, thanks for your good knowledge.I turned the air screw out 3/4 from seat and it started 2nd kick. Get this, had just installed gas tank & fuel line(carbs were empty too). So what your saying is if I leave air screw in that far it will make my mid range to rich? What would that do to my WOT?Just trying to get better at jetting.Ihope the air screw is the last thing to master. I'm still at 27.5 pilot.I'll go to 30's next, but it's hard to pull out a twenty on those little things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 air screws adjust idle circuit should effect the mid/wot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 What wesw meant to say is air screws won't effect more than 1/8 throttle to WOT. They come into play from idle to about 1/8 throttle roughly...then, the needle takes over...to about roughly 3/4 throttle...then you're all on the main baby... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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