Bunny771 Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 So i bought a new twist throttle, and i took off the tors and all that stuff. I wanted to make sure she still ran since i havent ran her in a few weeks. I got it to idle from the throttle cable because my idle screws havent came in yet. I was wondering if there is anything wrong with letting it idle from the cable, i knew there should be a small ammount of slack. But the next problem that came up was the one exhaust was pumping more hot and more smoke than the other one. Was this just because of the idle adjustments? Thanks alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 More than likely it's caused by one cylinder getting more/less fuel than the other one. YES, you have to USE the idle screw kits for idle...period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 You can get by with no idle screws, just take up the slack as you did. Make sure the slides are in sync, ie. moving up and down at the same time and by the same amount by adjusting the adjuster on the carb tops. This becomes a bit of a bitch when you remove the carb tops, you have to re-adjust... You can view the slides with the air filter removed and thru the small window on the side of the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 You need to have the screws...you need to have slack in the cables for when you rotate the bars, etc. If you have slack, then the slides are fully closed. When they are fully closed, the bike won't idle. You can get buy for just a bit without the idle screws...this is not a long term fix... Any time you take the carb caps off...I double check the sync. Whose to say you tightened them down the same as they were before, and that can throw it off...because of how fine the threads are on these stockers...it's very easy to do. Also...make sure the springs are resting on the metal on the inside of the caps, not caught up in the rubber Oring seals... Since you already have the carb caps...all you need are the brass idle screws, drill and tap. I think this kit can be had for 30 bucks...it's not worth playing with. If you can find the screws...I have two sets of drill/taps i'd be happy to send you for a few bucks to cover shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunny771 Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Thanks alot for the help guys. I just recently bought a idle kit for 30 bucks after shipping with the bits, so its perfect. I should be getting them within a few days. The only thing i dont know is where to drill it. Would it be possible for someone to just get a pic of a carb on this thread and circle it or something. I read the guide on properly doing it but i still dont understand where it goes. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipebomb Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 (edited) you'll need to drill and tap out the hole in the center of the little tube sticking out the side of the carb inside the green circle( left side carb is the same just on the opposite side of the carb facing out). you'll probably need to file the end a bit too for a smooth face for the locknut on the idle screw to set against and give you enough adjustment on the screw. Edited June 30, 2006 by pipebomb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunny771 Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Thank you very much for the pic. Now my banshee can resume its ressurection. Take care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Take care to protect the slide barrel when you drill the hole, when the drill bit breaks through the other side it can be difficult to control and you might nick the opposite side of the slide barrel. I stuck a piece of wooden broom handle in there for protection. Also be very careful when using a tap on alloy, the tap is small and can break easily and if it does break off inside the hole, you're pretty phucked... Just go easy and remember to reverse the tap every 1/4 turn or so. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Take care to protect the slide barrel when you drill the hole, when the drill bit breaks through the other side it can be difficult to control and you might nick the opposite side of the slide barrel. I stuck a piece of wooden broom handle in there for protection. Also be very careful when using a tap on alloy, the tap is small and can break easily and if it does break off inside the hole, you're pretty phucked... Just go easy and remember to reverse the tap every 1/4 turn or so. Good luck. This is absolutely priceless info! Use a cutter like WD40, liquid wrench, and use a boat load of it. This should ONLY be done once you've stripped the carb to nothing, no floats, jets, etc...just a bare body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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