2ksteeda Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 I got a deal going on a set of +3 longtravel A-Arms, and long travel Elka triple rates w/rezzies. My bike is all stock except for pipes. What are the benefits of a +3 over a +2 A-Arm setup, and will I need to do anything to the rear swingarm or axle for optimum handling? I ride mostly woods, trails and some MX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Well first check and see what length shock they use. More than likely its not going to be much longer at all, so you won't see any benefit (long travel front ends are horribly overpriced). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRI4life Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) the benefit depends on what arms your buying. if the shock is stock length then its not much. you might get a half inch more travel over a plus two setup. i wouldnt recomend that wide if you ride woods. they use inch over arms. width is just preferance. its all about the shocks. for your rear the stock swinger is fine just match the rear shock with your fronts.. otherwise your holding your self back. evertime you wheely your riding on stock. and thats no fun edit* would to wouldnt Edited June 27, 2006 by DRI4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ksteeda Posted June 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) The elkas are triple rate, comp and rebound adj. They are 17", and the A-arms are long travel +3+1. I think i'm going to go for it because its about $500 cheaper than any others i've seen. I could also buy some 4+1 offset front wheels in the future and make the width the same as a 2+1. Where is the best place to get the rear shock reworked to match the fronts? Edited June 21, 2006 by 2ksteeda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRI4life Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 rebuilding a stock rear shock sucks no matter who does it. the shaft is just to thin and they over heat and become all spring in a matter of minutes. you paid all that money for the goods on the front you should save and get an elka in the rear. let me guess its the janseen kit off ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 (edited) Where is the best place to get the rear shock reworked to match the fronts? about $210, DIY. and i dont see whats so sucky about an ohlins shock? and what does the shaft diameter have to do with it. it has nothing to do with the damping and ive never seen anyone bend one before. Edited June 22, 2006 by gimmeabeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djackbanshee Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 17 inch triple rates arent that long long travel a arms normaly use 18 or 19 inch quad rate shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ksteeda Posted June 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 The shocks are here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ADME:L:RTQ:US:1 And I'm getting a deal from the same guy for A-Arms: http://www.eyeballeng.com/item.asp?ItemID=...e&Placeholder=0 Says 17" shocks required, so it should work out ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRI4life Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 (edited) about $210, DIY. and i dont see whats so sucky about an ohlins shock? and what does the shaft diameter have to do with it. it has nothing to do with the damping and ive never seen anyone bend one before. did i miss something about an ohlins shock? the shaft diameter has lots to do with damping. if you dont know that then do some research. i dont know where to start on why thats a huge deal.. and bending isnt the problem. 17 inch triple rates arent that long long travel a arms normaly use 18 or 19 inch quad rate shocks on a 250r yes, or an outlaw chassis yes but you will never be able to fit a 19" shock on any long travel kit for a banshee. you dont have to have huge shocks to make it LT. who makes a kit for a banshee that uses 19s? and quad rate doesnt do shit. gotta love the edit button when you sound like an ass Edited June 22, 2006 by DRI4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 did i miss something about an ohlins shock? the shaft diameter has lots to do with damping. if you dont know that then do some research. i dont know where to start on why thats a huge deal.. and bending isnt the problem. i brought in the ohlins part. i can see what you are getting at with shaft diameter, and maybe i didnt realize it to be a huge part. I just think that the main valving stack should handle the majority of the work and have the clickers for very fine tuning. and thoe only thing i edited was a typo. if you will look it happend 3 mintues after the original post. far before any other posts. not trying to start a pissing match. just tell me why the shaft OD matters and how much. Im very interested in this kind of thing, and im sure im not the only one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRI4life Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 i brought in the ohlins part. i can see what you are getting at with shaft diameter, and maybe i didnt realize it to be a huge part. I just think that the main valving stack should handle the majority of the work and have the clickers for very fine tuning. and thoe only thing i edited was a typo. if you will look it happend 3 mintues after the original post. far before any other posts. not trying to start a pissing match. just tell me why the shaft OD matters and how much. Im very interested in this kind of thing, and im sure im not the only one. no not at all.. i was talking about me with the edit. no pissing here :beer: sorry for the confusion its almost hard to explain. you rebuilt your rear so you know how a shock works.think about whats going on in there. not only the diameter but the coating on the shaft is important. the bigger it is the better it pushes through the oil. its all about temp, longevity and performance. shock fade is a big deal. yes i have rode on a rebuilt shock and plenty of my friends have done it. after the first ride there squeeking and act as if they were no differance internally. but i do ride in hot the hot desert were most of you guys ride out in the mountains and such were its probly cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txblueshee Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 no not at all.. i was talking about me with the edit. no pissing here :beer: sorry for the confusion its almost hard to explain. you rebuilt your rear so you know how a shock works.think about whats going on in there. not only the diameter but the coating on the shaft is important. the bigger it is the better it pushes through the oil. its all about temp, longevity and performance. shock fade is a big deal. yes i have rode on a rebuilt shock and plenty of my friends have done it. after the first ride there squeeking and act as if they were no differance internally. but i do ride in hot the hot desert were most of you guys ride out in the mountains and such were its probly cooler. A poorly built shock will fall out regardless of the parts in it... i've seen numberous sets of elkas clap out in the middle of a heat race... pulled out of the elka box that day.... Like the smaller diameter shafts in works and stock shocks will turn into an L everytime when pushed... Like you were saying.. there's alot of factors that will make a shock zero or hero... all of it has to work in sync or you have a bucking disaster of a shock.... One thing to consider since your in the desert.. it might not be the shock failing but instead the oil breaking down? There are plenty of people that run mx and win with rebuilt shocks.... A day at the mx track in the tx sun isn't excactly vacation on a shock... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 cool. i see what youre saying now. thanks for clearing that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRI4life Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 yup txblueshee i do need a rebuild my oil is pretty old.. but i wasnt saying that an elka wont fade out or break it was just a comparison to the factory shock rebuild upgrade (by elka,works or anyone). also it doesnt matter if you have stock,stock rebuild or axis to win in MX. its all in the rider imo.. not saying im a shock/suspension pro, iv just riden and owned a million banshees with all sorts of different suspension and motors. thats where all my talk comes from.. and im still always learning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txblueshee Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 yup txblueshee i do need a rebuild my oil is pretty old.. but i wasnt saying that an elka wont fade out or break it was just a comparison to the factory shock rebuild upgrade (by elka,works or anyone). also it doesnt matter if you have stock,stock rebuild or axis to win in MX. its all in the rider imo.. not saying im a shock/suspension pro, iv just riden and owned a million banshees with all sorts of different suspension and motors. thats where all my talk comes from.. and im still always learning Money can't buy you skills...I've watched my buddy caleb lap the fucking field running works shocks on a 330ex.... Back when everybody ran 440's and hybrids.... We agree that you can only do so much with the stock shaft.... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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