phreak Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 (edited) Now that the nice weather is here, i want install my -2 roundhouse swingarm that's been laying around for god knows how long. i did a search but couldn't find any how to's on removal and install of a swingarm. does anyone know where i could find one or maybe even post one... if you wouldn't mind. i have a clymers but the more input given the better. :baseball_bat: Edited June 19, 2006 by phreak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Be prepared to beat the piss out of the bolt to get it out, and put some antisieze compund on it when you put it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Since you're doing it...do it right... Take the swingarm bolt to a metal fab shop. Have them tap both ends (it's hollow) and plug one, put a zerk fitting on the other. Then, in the bolt itself, drill 3 or 4 1/8 inch holes... Good luck doing this yourself, unless you have a drill press. That swinger bolt is tough as nails... Someone probably charge you 20 to 30 bucks...and it'll be worth every penny. Now you can grease the swingarm too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 It's pretty straightforward, just takes some time & effort, and you never know when you'll run into a snag (like a pivot bolt rusted to the spacer, or axle rusted to the spacer...). Remove the left rear wheel and hub, remove the axle nuts, pull of the rear brake caliper (just let it hang by the brake line so you won't have to bleed it), and remove the chain, then slide the sprocket hub off. If your swingarm is stock and you're going to -2 you're gonna hafta shorten the chain anyway. Slide (hopefully) the axle to the right out of the carrier, if it's a bitch you'll have to work at it, just be careful not to pound on the end of the axle or you'll crush the holes for the hub castle nut or trash the threads, you may need a short piece of pipe to drive against the axle where it necks down for the hub. If it doesn't slide right out soak it with some kind of penetrating oil and let it sit a day or two. Worst case you'll need to dismount the whole carrier and mount it in a vise or something to drive the axle out or worse yet use heat on it to get it to break loose. Leave the brake hub on the axle and set it aside. Remove the swingarm skidplate if you have one and are gonna reuse it. Remove the rear shock linkage bolt where it mounts to the swingarm, and the lower rear shock mounting bolt. Let the shock hang by the upper mount and let the linkage drop down out of the way. Remove the swingarm pivot bolt. Here again it might be a bitch as the sleeve will rust to the bolt. Try soaking the shit out of the bolt first with penetrating oil, then driving it out carefully without messing up the threads, when all else fails use heat and force. Once it's out installation is the reverse of removal; pivot bolt, lower shock bolt, linkage bolt, axle in carrier, sprocket hub, axle nuts, hub & nut & cotter pin, wheel. Going back together, if possible use an impact wrench on the hub nut, that little bastard likes to work loose. Use hi-temp or lithium grease on the pivot bolt and shock/linkage bolts when going back together; hi-temp if you don't ride in water, waterproof grease if you do ride in water. I use red loctite on both the pivot bolt nut and the axle nuts, never-sieze on the axle splines for the brake, sprocket and wheel hubs. Check the chain slack and adjust (ugh) if necessary, I use blue loctite on the stock adjuster bolts/nuts and the carrier nuts. While you've got the whole ass end apart there's a few things you can do if you want to: 1. If your rear shock squeaks like a bitch when it compresses, pull the whole shock off and grease the spherical bearings real well, and make sure the seals are pointed the right direction (I've done two that the seal lips are facing the wrong way). 2. Replace the stock piece of shit swingarm chain slider. I like T.M. Designworks, there's others available from Cascade, UPP, etc. Anything is better than the stock donut. 3. Check the pivot bearings; in this case they are prolly ok since it's a new(?) swingarm. Check the pivot seals too. 4. Replace the axle bearings & seals; preventative maintenence but here again on a new one not necessary. 5. Add a grease zerk on the pivot bolt. Some (not many) aftermarket swingarms will have a grease zerk for the pivot bolt, if not either drill & tap one on the swingarm or do what I did; weld the head end of the hollow pivot bolt shut, cross-drill the bolt and the spacer (1/8" or so holes), and find a drive-in zerk that fits the thread end of the bolt tight. Fill it with grease and put a couple shots in it every once in a while. 6. Add a grease zerk on the axle carrier. New round housing should already have it, if not or if it's stock, drill & tap the carrier for a grease zerk. Don't forget to pry off the inner seals of the axle bearings so grease can actually get to them. 7. Inspect the axle splines for wear, or better yet take the opportunity to upgrade to an aftermarket axle, it's worth it. I have had great luck with Lonestar and highly recommend them, but do a little research on others and find one you like. 8. Inspect/adjust/rebuild rear shock. Maybe send it off to Works for a heart transplant or someone else to be rebuilt or revalved (Janssen, Axis, etc.). Check for leaks while you're in there and get it done while you've got everything apart already. 9. Replace the chain & sprockets (as a set). If they're worn now is a good time to get it done. I've had good luck with DID o-ring chains and cheap sprockets, I upgraded to Sidewinder Ti chain & Tri-metal sprockets and they are holding up great. 10. Check the rear brake pads & rotor. If the rotor is warped replace it (Galfer and others make damn nice wave rotors). Same goes for the pads. While you're at it drain and replace the brake fluid, it WILL make a difference on an older machine, as will upgrading to a stainless steel brake line (have fun bleedin' it tho heh-a Mityvac is invaluable). Did I miss anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phreak Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 wow... thanks a lot guys (esp. benbb). i really appreciate this. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Now ya see thats why I love this place. You get all the cool advice and helpful advice from those that have been there and done that. Clymers is good don't get me wrong, but it doesn't say watch out for this or do this to help you in the future. You all Rock :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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