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T5 jetting


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Hey all im getting my t5s tomorrow and I need help with baseline jetting

My mods are in my sig, plus my compression is 165 both cylinders, so should I run race gas?

My elevation is 800 ft above sea level, temps are about 85F-95F

also my right cylinder runs richer than the left,I have checked for air leaks and both carbs are set up the same, except the right needle has a bit of a mushroomed tip, would this cause it to run richer? any advice would help Thanx :beer:

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Change the needles...

 

At or near sea level, banshees come with 125 to 135 PSI...

Since you didn't mention a new head or shaved head in your sig, I'd try a different compression gauge..

Cheap ones are very unreliable. Buddy of mine tried a test on his triple sled, el cheapo compression gauge, showed like 135, 180 and 145 for his cylinders...I told him he only needed race gas for his center cylinder...:)

 

If you're running that much PSI with a good, quality tester...then you'll need a mix of race gas at least, if not full race gas.

 

165 is about the magic number where you may be able to mix or might have to run straight race fuel.

 

By the way...how did you check for air leaks?

Have you checked the sync on your carbs, too...? That could cause one to run richer than the other...

 

As far as your jetting...

I think stock pilots, stock needles middle clip and 350 mains would be a safe starting point.

You mentioned K&N filter(s)...so, I take that as you removed the airbox and have pod filters clamped onto the carbs...

 

You're going to love the T5s...have fun!!

Edited by dajogejr
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I would run the stock pilot jet with two turns out on the air screw, Toomey needles in the 5th clip starting 1 from the top. The toomey needles gets rid of that dead spot under the power band. and try a 360 to 340 main. I would start a little richer and work your way down. Lean it up on the hotter days. Good luck.

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I would run the stock pilot jet with two turns out on the air screw, Toomey needles in the 5th clip starting 1 from the top. The toomey needles gets rid of that dead spot under the power band. and try a 360 to 340 main. I would start a little richer and work your way down. Lean it up on the hotter days. Good luck.

 

Your pilot will be way too lean at two turns on the stock pilot. I would go with the stock pilot, but you'll probably only want .5-1.25 at the very most on the air screw. Since you are running in the upper 80's to 90's probably around 350 or so on the main. We're you running with stock pipes on that dune port? Can't imagine, but maybe? I have to assume you were running pipes before, if so what pipes and what was your jetting at that time? Just re-thinking, you may want to go up to a 27.5 on the pilot with the port at around 1.5 turns on the air screws.

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The guage I used I got from sears so I trust it.I just honed it and slapped new rings and gaskets

and made sure all was clean before reassembly, When I bought the bike it had most of the mods already, the head is stock & shaved, and sadly previous owner kept T5s for his other bike and sold bike to me with stock pipes, and I do have pod filters with no airbox, also I have +4 timing advance. Does any body know where to get aviation fuel in Riverside,CA I heard its 100 octane

Thanx all for the advice :beer:

 

PS: cant wait to get those pipes, I cant even sleep, this has been the longest weekend ever the tracking on the shipping shows that the pipes have been at UPS since friday afternoon(My work is like 3/4 mile from UPS) Thanx again :beer:

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the head is stock & shaved

 

Ahh....that wasn't (isn't) in your sig...

 

This is really a tough call...however, since you're running +4 timinig AND a shaved head, I'd honestly run straight race gas to be safe. You may or may not be able to run a 50/50 mix...but, to save a few bucks...it's proabably not worth it...

 

Timinig advance AND shaved flywheel really wake those pipes up...takes some of the hit out of them...I think you're gonna like 'em!!

 

Good luck!

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I would use the 350 mains and around 1.5 to 2 turns out. I use the stock pilots and have not had any problems. My bike run T5 with +4 timing, modquad head w/18cc domes stock bore prolite pistons and mild porting. The plugs were perfect at sea level. This is with 110 race fuel and yamalube mixed at 32:1. At least this is a starting spot for you. Good Luck

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Well I found a place real close to my house where I can get 100 octane gas at the pump, what compression do I need to have to be safe with 100 octane or if I bring my timing back to stock could I run 100 ctane? I just dont wanna spend all that money on gas every time I go riding,

and by the way if anybody is interested I am selling my +6 swinger in the For Sale Forum, or if any body has some after market/YFZ 450 shocks for the front willing to trade let me know.

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If you don't want to spend the money in gas, you shouldn't have shaved the head, or took less off it, like .010 or .020...

 

Thats actually one of the mods it had before I got the bike, but anyways I picked up some C12

race gas today and was wondering if I can run it 50/50 if I back off the timing thanx

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There is no way we can tell you that for sure.

Your compression is at the borderline for needing full race gas. Add timing to that...and you surely do.

 

However...compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing bump.

 

Tough call...do you have a good enough ear to listen for detonation? If so...you "could" try 50/50...however, you've been warned.

 

To be safe, I'd run full race. You could buy a stock head, as said...to ease your concerns...but you'd be losing a little bottom end if you switch.

 

A stock head is cheaper than a rebuild, that's for sure...as is race gas for that matter...

 

Personally, I'd play it safe...up to you...

 

:beer:

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There is no way we can tell you that for sure.

Your compression is at the borderline for needing full race gas. Add timing to that...and you surely do.

 

However...compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing bump.

 

Tough call...do you have a good enough ear to listen for detonation? If so...you "could" try 50/50...however, you've been warned.

 

To be safe, I'd run full race. You could buy a stock head, as said...to ease your concerns...but you'd be losing a little bottom end if you switch.

 

A stock head is cheaper than a rebuild, that's for sure...as is race gas for that matter...

 

Personally, I'd play it safe...up to you...

 

:beer:

Well there is a shop around my area that recuts combustion chambers on stock heads, I just gonna go and have them do it to my head, or I might just buy a cool head- if I do what size domes should I get for 100 octane, Thanx :beer:

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I'd get a NOSS head. Dave Noss is the owner of Noss machine products, and supports this website and it's patrons. Plus, he gives a discount to HQ members.

 

Rather than give you borderline advice...you should talk to him directly.

He may chime in on this thread...or, you could PM him at dlnoss.

He can probably better tell you what domes to get and the safety factor...

 

Dave's a helluva guy who goes out of his way to take care of people...you won't be dissapointed in him, his customer service or his product, it's a win win all around....

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I'd get a NOSS head. Dave Noss is the owner of Noss machine products, and supports this website and it's patrons. Plus, he gives a discount to HQ members.

 

Rather than give you borderline advice...you should talk to him directly.

He may chime in on this thread...or, you could PM him at dlnoss.

He can probably better tell you what domes to get and the safety factor...

 

Dave's a helluva guy who goes out of his way to take care of people...you won't be dissapointed in him, his customer service or his product, it's a win win all around....

 

Well then Im just going to burn up the 5 gallons of C12 I just got then Ill go with a noss head. Ive actually heard alot of good stuff about the head and dlnoss, but hey all thanx a bunch for all the help you guys have given me :beer:

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