msprouse Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Ok i took my shee to the dunes for the first time after installing my new noss head and it seemed to be running great until I headed up the mountain and the left cylinder just cut out completly it runs fine at low to mid rpm but under any stress it's just like the left side just shut's off I tried changing plugs and it did not help any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Switch Plug wires, see if it kills the other cylinder. How do the plugs that came out look? Have you done a compression test? Both carbs getting fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 (edited) Do a compression test... mine did the same thing when i blew up my pistons from too low of octane in the gas... what elevation are you at? Were you running race gas? I see you are running 18cc domes.. depending on your elevation you could have been having detonation. Edited May 22, 2006 by watkins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 By reading his other posts...he rides with rsheppick. R rides at 5000 feet. 18cc domes don't need race gas at that elevation. Severe timing and 16 or 17cc domes would need a little more octane... Yep...squeeze test her, see where you're at... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msprouse Posted May 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 I'll do a compression test but that just seems weird sinse it ran fine before the noss head and it has literally less than 5 minutes on it, when I did the head the pistons and cylinders looked almost new and not one scratch on the stock head I will get back to you guys on results of comp. test thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsheppick Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 I'll do a compression test but that just seems weird sinse it ran fine before the noss head and it has literally less than 5 minutes on it, when I did the head the pistons and cylinders looked almost new and not one scratch on the stock headI will get back to you guys on results of comp. test thanks. 519322[/snapback] Okay lets back up a second here. When you changed your head what head was on before? Stock? You buy a new oring kit? I you need to make sure you have almost equal compression -+ '3PSI'. I think the head was not put on correctly or the domes were incorrect and squish was also not checked.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Actually...10% of each other is the rule of thumb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsheppick Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Actually...10% of each other is the rule of thumb... 519408[/snapback] I think everyone has a differnt rule of thumb :-) I am having me some VERY sexy drag pipes made for my bike from CPI.. Greatest part about K&T and CPI being 40 minutes from me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 True enough...but, Clymers would be the Bible if the Banshee had one. They specify 10% I'm pretty sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msprouse Posted May 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 A new oring kit came with the head and yes the head was stock I looked at it last night and noticed that the left cylinder has a small leak on the back side, so I need to pull the head and see WTF after I get it back on I will do a compression test and let you guys know the results thanks guys. PS. sheppick I might throw in some higher compression forged pistons and remove the stock rev limiters and other useless stock shit you think you could give me a hand mabey over see my dumb ass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 It is possible the head or cylinder is warped...causing the leak... Also possible the gasket just let loose. A compression test should reveal that...if not, it's time to leak down test it. There are no rev limiters on a banshee. I think you mean the TORS, which in theory help cut the ignition if the slides stick. This is not the same as a rev limiter. For your info... The Pipes, timing, compression and carbs pretty much tell you how high it'll rev, or...better yet, when the motor will stop making power... You're in two stroke land now, bud...no popping once you hit 9 or 10 K...it'll just stop pulling. Good idea to shift then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 If you haven't removed the head yet, do a compression check first. A coolant leak to the outside doesn't mean there is a compression leak. If you have already taken the head off, see if the pistons or domes look like they have been worked over with an ice pick (detonation). If you put in the higher compression pistons you may need more octane if you don't already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msprouse Posted May 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 I did a compression today and both cylinders are at about 140 psi I guess I'll take off the head and check it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Sounds like the problem is elsewhere. Carb(s), tors if you still have them,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 And... At 140 PSI...you are perfectly fine with Premium Pump Gas, don't waste your money on race gas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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