4m stroker w/+5m rods and +5m wiseco's

[batoutofshell]

I am building a new trail bike looking to get some more power, Can this be run with a stock head and what will it do as far as power, typr of fuel? Thanks in advance for any help!

Sorry 4mm stroker with 5mm long rods with wiseco prolites for 5mm

Edited April 29, 2006 by batoutofshell

[fastbanshee8]

Very good increase in torque, but your HP is going to depend on, what pipes, reeds, carbs, compression, etc., that you are running. But it'll still rip.

[batoutofshell]

stock head??stock carbs, fmf golds, boysen reeds, no porting

[Banshee~]

stock head??stock carbs, fmf golds, boysen reeds, no porting

509632[/snapback]

You need to port if you put in a storker crank.

[batoutofshell]

You need to port if you put in a storker crank.

509635[/snapback]

I thought you didn't have to with the 4mm

[locogato11283]

if you go with a 4mm stroker, u should really get some porting done.

[fastbanshee8]

To make a 4 mil run to its potential, you are going to have to spend some money. Bigger carbs, porting etc. It will still run with what you have, but not as good as it should. Like has already been stated by Locogato, if you install the 4mil crank, without porting the cylinders, you are basically shooting yourself in the foot. Just my .02.

[Banshee~]

To make a 4 mil run to its potential, you are going to have to spend some money.  Bigger carbs, porting etc.  It will still run with what you have, but not as good as it should.  Like has already been stated by Locogato, if you install the 4mil crank, without porting the cylinders, you are basically shooting yourself in the foot.  Just my .02.

509662[/snapback]

So basicly if you dont have money for both (stoker and porting) get the porting first and when you have the cash get the crank later. You will be more happy with the power gains the porting gives you over just the storker.

[odaen]

You can put a 4mm crank in and port it later. You will still get some noticeable gains and have room to upgrade later with porting when money allows. You don't have to go out and buy bigger carbs just because you have a 4mm crank either. I ran stock carbs in my ported 4mm for an entire season before I went to a cub. First dyno run was 76HP with pump gas and CPI pipes. I switched over to full race gas and higher compression domes, and was probably right at 80HP with those stock carbs.

If you want a better opinion, call some builders and talk to them.

[Polish]

I have the same motor....w/$$$$.....like every one else...........mine has Blaster Pistons, 34pj's, CPI's, 22cc BB domes............and it flat out halls A$$.............I couldn't imagine what the bigger motors can do ........(they must really kick A$$)..........I had it dyno'ed with my old T-5's and it put out (If I remember........I would have to find mi dyno results)........I think 72 HP or 74 HP ...........im wondering what the HP is now that I have CPI's

 

 

Oh I almost forgot ...........if your going to put a crank in do it right the first time.........

Edited April 29, 2006 by Polish

[batoutofshell]

Don't want to port my cylinders I feel it ruins them guess Ill look for other avenues

[odaen]

Don't want to port my cylinders I feel it ruins them guess Ill look for other avenues

509680[/snapback]

 

 

elaborate on the ruining part, just curious. do you mean less reliable?

[batoutofshell]

way too much trouble for the minimal amout of horsepower gained, I would just buy the whole engine done already for the money and time wasted trying to do all involved, work,time,jetting.

[odaen]

porting is probably the most cost effective mod you could do for your motor. a piped shee will put about 50HP to the wheels. that same motor with porting will add about 15HP on gas, which is damn near 33%. Same port job with a 4mm crank, and you're looking at 30HP or 60% gain.

 

Given that pipes run about 500 to 600 new depending on what you buy, a 325 port job, and a 400 dollar crank don't seem out of line pricewise.

[odaen]

and buying a whole nother motor has its plus's and minus's. doing it yourself, you have most of the components already, and can most likely add the mods cheaper than you can get into a complete used motor. on top of it, the porting can be done to meet your needs, not the previous owner's. add to that, you know exactly what you got when you do your own. too many people get ripped buying shit over the net. complete motors are no exception.

 

 

good luck man. I hope whatever route you choose, that your bike rips and you are pleased.