pipebomb Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 (edited) Got asked the other day to look at a bike for someone(Brother's friend's cousin's friend, seriously, I thought it was a Redneck joke too.) they had asked me about installing a tether kill on it and I told them how to do it(it's not rocket science). they couldn't get it to work. so like I said, they asked me to take a look. it's installed right as far as I know. I had them hook it up the same way I've always done it and never had a problem yet. Here's what I'm dealing with: Stock '01 w/ pipes and air filter. wire harness is all stock and intact(TORS, Key switch, light/run switch, it's all there.) here's what they did as per my instructions. mounted the switch to the bars, stripped about 3/4" off one wire and wrapped it around one of the bolts mounting the coil to the frame and retightened it, then spliced the other wire into the orange about 2" before the coil. that where I think the problem is. Instead of stripping off the instulation ot wrap the wire from the switch or cutting it and stripping all the ends and connecting them all together, they used one of those crimp over connectors(the ones you slip over the wire, slip the end of the cut wire into and squish the little blade down through it and snap the clip over to hold it together). I think that the connector isn't allowing enough power to divert over to the kill switch wire to kill the motor. but I've also heard that the key switch needs to be eliminated for them to work. since I don't run them on my bikes (have them, just never bothered to install them), I never really thought much about it, so I figured I'd run it by you guys before I messed it, in case you guys know something I didn't. Edited April 15, 2006 by pipebomb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki0702 Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 i would try and eliminate the key switch first. there not being enough power through that crimpcap isnt going to be the problem. check your grounds dude...good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTMAN350 Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 on a shee you have to remove the key switch for the kill switch to work properly. with key switch still intact the kill switch will not function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipebomb Posted April 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 that's what I figured. like I said, I don't run them on mine(got them just too lazy to dig them out and put them on) so I never even though about it. but that would explain why the one on my R wouldn't work after I put the new wire harness in. Thanks guys. now I just got to tell the guy(not the brightest bulb in the box, so it's gonna take forever to explain it to him ) that he's got to loose the key switch or pass on the tether kill. I'll stick w/ my key switches.( Keeps my brother from "borrowing" them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeseat$$ Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I beg to differ,I've had the pro design tether on my banshees and never had to disconnect the switch.I connected mine right at the coil and for the ground I connected it to the top radiater cover mount and it worked perfectly.Just my .02 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GleasmJA Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 Just asking here..... but does the key when turned off remove or apply the needed signal. Either way....if it applies the needed signal when turned on... then just wire the tether to ground on one side and a key wire on the other. Or why not just wire the tether in line with the coil orange wire.... when you remove the tether end cuts firing signal from the coil..... game over. Correct me if my thinking is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I also have a pro design and still have the key switch, I just eliminated the kill/headlight switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GleasmJA Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 That way works just a fine also.... another way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipebomb Posted April 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 wire schematic shows for: the key switch a red w/ black stripe(to CDI) and a black(ground) the bar switch a black w/ white stripe(to CDI) and a black(ground) the coil an orange(back to CDI), one black(ground) and 2 plug wire(that ground on the head) that's why I always put the splice just before the coil every other time I installed one. so it would isolate the coil and ground the system before the power got to it. electricity, like water, follows the path of least resistance. that's why I kinda questioned the clip over connector they used causing the switch not to work. Cause the contact surface is so small between both wires running though it, i figured that the connector was actually blocking the flow of power to the kill switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravity2oo4 Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I have a kill switch on mine and I didnt have to remove anything for it to fuction correctly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I've ran a tether kill switch for years, and I never had to remove the key switch or the thumb kill switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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