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water pump


geoffroy

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It depends on what head you are talking about, and how the coolant is routed. Do you have a aftermarket head or a stock head? Some aftermarket heads force the coolant to flow down both cylinders first before it leaves the back of the head.

 

Also if you still have a stock water pump, ditch it and get an aluminum aftermarket one.

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It depends on what head you are talking about, and how the coolant is routed. Do you have a aftermarket head or a stock head? Some aftermarket heads force the coolant to flow down both cylinders first before it leaves the back of the head.

 

Also if you still have a stock water pump, ditch it and get an aluminum aftermarket one.

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Up the hose to the center of the cylinder head, it's distributed pretty even.

I don't know about the whole billet aluminum impeller though, I don't know anyone with water pump problems not to mention how many Banshees were produced with them for the last 20 years and the RZ, RD 350's and RD400's before that. My 84 RZ350 had 18,000 miles on it and still cooled just fine?

More for bench racing I think. :shrugani:

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ive replaced mine with a billet jobby.

 

i just thought, man this thing is only 60 buxs or whatever to replace a plastic piece with some 6061. hmmm. if the plastic factory thinger breaks or just doesnt flow properly anymore im gonna melt a motor. that motor is gonna cost me $120+shipping to rebuild. (only becuase i work at a shop and get free machine time, do my own labor and buy new parts off ebay, other wise multiply my number by any positive integer needed to get your price.)

 

shit, that makes sense.

Edited by gimmeabeer
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Up the hose to the center of the cylinder head, it's distributed pretty even.

I don't know about the whole billet aluminum impeller though, I don't know anyone with water pump problems not to mention how many Banshees were produced with them for the last 20 years and the RZ, RD 350's and RD400's before that. My 84 RZ350 had 18,000 miles on it and still cooled just fine?

More for bench racing I think.

Edited by sandrappy
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i'd definitely replace it with the aluminum one. my pos stock plastic one pretty much disintegrated. it was still attached to the shaft but the core of it was all that was left, no fins or anything at all. shee was overheating, and i think the pieces are what trashed the seal to the tranny, which made my clutch slip like hell and burn up. all from a piece of shit plastic impeller banghead replace it asap, and hopefully before running into problems. B)

Edited by MILO
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yep 50-60$, +fluid,+pump gasket,+cover gasket,+shipping & taxes...now what are we up to?

To each there own, there are lots of other things that can cause damage and there are lots of items that are "cheap insurance" that's what the aftermarket relies on, I never said they were a bad idea, I just think there not nessesary.

 

Apon dissasembley of my transmission yesterday I found that the C-clip that holds the gears in place on the end of the countershaft was all messed up and bearly able to hold on, this was the first time I split the cases, so it was like this from factory.

The point is shit happens, I could tell everyone the factory C-clip is crap and everyone should split there case and replace it with a "hi-perf" clip I sell for $4.99 because after all look what happened to me and it would be cheap insurance.

Boom!, an aftermarket peice is born. But after all I'm just one of 10,000,000 Banshees out there that it happened to, so is it nessesary? not realy. Thats all I'm trying to say.

After all it is your Banshee and you make the choices, I've made mine and I know that if something should go wrong with it there is an aftermarket peice waiting :)

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yep 50-60$, +fluid,+pump gasket,+cover gasket,+shipping & taxes...now what are we up to?

To each there own, there are lots of other things that can cause damage and there are lots of items that are "cheap insurance" that's what the aftermarket relies on, I never said they were a bad idea, I just think there not nessesary.

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youre right, not all of those stupid little trinkets have any merit, a perfect example is the boost bottle. but a water pump that wont degrade ove time is a good deal.

 

youre c-clip thing was a factory defect. prep youre bikes a little better and it wont happen.

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it would not matter if it split up or went through one cylinder then the other, the overall flow would remain the same and the temperature of the loop will be the same because of the amount of flow through the loop.

 

Typicaly it is better to run in series (frome one side to the other) Bad things can happen in parallel (if one path has less resistance than the other it will have better flow though it than the other side.) In series the flow through out the loop is constant.

 

I believe the banshee is parallel, probably easier to design it this way, but it would not matter if it was in series...

 

It also would likely not matter where the radiator is located inthe loop (before the engine or after)

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I've personally seen a half dozen stock water pumps stop pumping because the plastic propeller comes loose from the metal shaft. So the plastic part just spins on the metal shaft and it isn't pumping any water.

 

Now I have never seen an aluminum one fail. Plus when the stock plastic ones fail the engine over heats very quickly and has actually caused some engine damage. I'll always just buy an aluminum water pump for $60 for insurance when I got $5000 invested into an engine.

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word...cheap insurance for big investment! :cheers:

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