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what times do you think


banshee223

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well, I didn't run worth a shit, 5.7 was the best i could run. I spun the entire track, maybe you guys can tell me what was the deal. I tried lower air pressure, higher air pressure, swaping the paddle to the other side so that the wheels would tuck more, I tried straping the front, raising the front. I really think that with the -3.5 swingarm may have upset the geometry of the bike for drag racing, like maybe it wasn't letting me transfer the weight to the rear wheels, there was a guy with almost the same mods except for he had a stock crank and i had more porting done and he was running a +4 swingarm and his times where 5.0, I've got a extended swingarm on the way so maybe that will help me out, I'm also going to play with my gears some. My paddles are skat trak extremes 21-12-8 with 9 paddles. So what do you think, do you think that was my prob?

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the wheelie bar is about 4.6 feet long and the wheel is about 5 to 6 in. of the ground, it seemed like when the wheelie bar was hitting the ground it was causing the ass end to left and lose more traction but it would barly even set it back on the bar because it was spinning so much. My sprockets were 13-41 with skat trak extreme haulers 21-12-8 with 9 paddles

Edited by banshee223
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A stock framed bike is kind of difficult to get set up at first for drags. You don't want to strap your front end down if you don't have to. That is what's going to transfer the weight back. In my opinion since you are running a ported 4 mill you really don't have enough tire. That's one reason you probably spun all the way down the track. I found on my stock frame the best set up was running the stock shocks on the front and putting a solid strut on the rear. And I ran 22x11x8 10 paddle superlites with 15-45 gearing. I had a 8 over arm. Most recommend that your wheelie bar be equal to the length of your bike. Going to a longer swingarm is definitly going to help with the transfer problem.

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the wheelie bar is about 4.6 feet long and the wheel is about 5 to 6 in. of the ground, it seemed like when the wheelie bar was hitting the ground it was causing the ass end to left and lose more traction but it would barly even set it back on the bar because it was spinning so much. My sprockets were 13-41 with skat trak extreme haulers 21-12-8 with 9 paddles

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it is quite possible when you came up on wheelie bar your rear wheels were actually being jerked up in the air.two things that cause this are your wheelie bar is to short and or its to stiff.go with at least a 60 inch long wheelie bar,measured from axle to center of wheelie bar axle and build it so it can flex just a little bit but still be strong enough to help absorb the impact when it comes up and hits the wheelie bar.the first wheelie bar i built i built to rigid and it had no flex and it caused the rear wheels to bounce and loose traction.my sons first bar was to short and to rigid and it jerked the rear wheels off the ground when it hit the wheelie bar.

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like others have said the wheelie bar seems short.. and you were unloading the tires, and when you were on the tires it wasnt enough to hook..

 

 

 

with mine i had a fuel problem, slipping clutches and went a 4.56.. i dont have a wheelie bar either..

 

 

my chassis does have marvins all around,jjanda drag axle and a +10 swingarm.. the motor at the time was a 4mm stock cylinder, with 38mm mikuni carbs, 1-4 override. the tires were 22in 12 paddle.. with 15/41 gearing..

 

once i got the fuel problem worked out and a lockup i never got to go back to the track with it before tearing it back down.. but was expecting to see some 4.1's or so.

 

the cub top end should be done very soon and im expecting to see some faster times than that..

 

 

 

 

you could try some taller gearing you should be able to pull it with no problems.. and what carbs are you running?

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The faster you go the more fun your gonna have.

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:rotflmao: i agree with that champ.i had a whole lot of fun last season and this year the fun looks like its gonna be unbelievable this season.it is like chase said just have fun thats all that matters.the more serious you get about it the less fun you'll have and the more fustrated you'll get.

Edited by blueshee03
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It's going to take a few times to the track to figure out what gearing is best.Might talk to the faster guys that normally go to the track and see what they run.Tracks can actually change from week to week.You'll probably need a variety of sprockets.The longer swingarm and wheelie bar will probably help.

Post some pictures of it. :clap:

 

Chase is right.There's nothing wrong with wanting to win.That's why we spend so much money on our banshees but if you get to wrapped up in having to win the fun factor goes away quickly.Some of us are still trying to learn that one.

Edited by race-a-holic
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its deffinitly not all about the times with pretty much everyone i ride with.. the times are just a good thing to know.. and helps you know what your running up against when you run at the dunes with some moron spitting out that his (stock) banshee runs in the 4.2 range.. with stock everything but pipes..

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i think they are suggesting a longer wheelie bar or swinger.

 

 

if that motor is close to what mine is. which i think its the same porting.

 

you need a +4 swinger maybe a 6

 

or like they said a long wheelie bar to keep teh front down

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Maybe i read it wrong but i thought he said it was spinning all the way !?? If that is the case i dont think he will want a longer arm... :confused:

Maybe more tire or gear?? Some tuning?? etc. .

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