BigRed350x Posted February 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 Just lift the crank out. Remember to remove the two seals at either end of the crank. remove the little clip thingy that lines up the bearing. Here's the trans. Keep your parts organized in baggies!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 That's all for now. I am going to go wash everything and then I will go over putting it back together with new fancy stuff later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 just a few critiques so it will go alot smoother next time.. just so you can make a few steps shorter next time, you dont have to take the adjustment out of the clutches, that way they are still pretty much in adjustment when you put it back together.. unless your changing the pressure plate.. also you can leave the clutch fibers and steels in and press them with your thumb pretty hard so they dont slip and hit the basket nut and crank nut with an impact.. that will break them loose without having to worry about bending a rod with the extension through it.. clutch arm also does not need to come out till after you get the cases apart, to prevent sand and dirt from getting into the bearings. there is not that much tention on the spring for the kickstarter gear so plier's were needed.. and so you dont cut or mess up the gasket surface for the clutch side cover dont use a knife or screw driver to pry the cover off.. they come off pretty easy if you just pull on them, once the water line o rings is clear it comes right off.. the starter gear does not need to come off either.. it will stay in place even if you are having to pull the trans out, as well pull the shift shaft out. you will not have to pull the adjustment off stud off for the shaft either to get the drum and shift fork shafts out, there are plugs on the stator side of the motor that they will push through easily.. oh dont forget about the degree key as well.. you dont want to loose that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 just a few critiques so it will go alot smoother next time.. just so you can make a few steps shorter next time, you dont have to take the adjustment out of the clutches, that way they are still pretty much in adjustment when you put it back together.. unless your changing the pressure plate.. also you can leave the clutch fibers and steels in and press them with your thumb pretty hard so they dont slip and hit the basket nut and crank nut with an impact.. that will break them loose without having to worry about bending a rod with the extension through it.. clutch arm also does not need to come out till after you get the cases apart, to prevent sand and dirt from getting into the bearings. there is not that much tention on the spring for the kickstarter gear so plier's were needed.. and so you dont cut or mess up the gasket surface for the clutch side cover dont use a knife or screw driver to pry the cover off.. they come off pretty easy if you just pull on them, once the water line o rings is clear it comes right off.. the starter gear does not need to come off either.. it will stay in place even if you are having to pull the trans out, as well pull the shift shaft out. you will not have to pull the adjustment off stud off for the shaft either to get the drum and shift fork shafts out, there are plugs on the stator side of the motor that they will push through easily.. oh dont forget about the degree key as well.. you dont want to loose that.. 475659[/snapback] However you wanna do it. I've done a shit ton of these and pull everything off the inspect it. If you are just splitting the cases for shits and giggles that's fine, but you need to inspect everything, which is why I take everything off. I will continue to pull everything out after I wash it. Good tips though. I've done so many of these I don't have any problems with it going smoothly any more. To avoid any problems though, everyone should have a clymers manual, they go over all this in far more detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 i wasnt trying to sound condesending or anything, just to make things faster if its a known good motor and say you were only going after the shift forks or crank seals where it wouldnt need to be down for long, you could leave the half moon clip off the cases when reassymbling everything, then once you get the side covers off you could just pull the cases apart by the case bolts, and not have to take the clutch assymbly ect apart.. though the clutch side gear and stator would still need to come off that would be much easier done with the clutches in place with an impact to get to the crank seals.. besides that its a much better illistration than whats in the clymers manual.. the pics arent in black and white.. but im sure there are some grease stains on some peoples screens after looking through this..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 i wasnt trying to sound condesending or anything, just to make things faster if its a known good motor and say you were only going after the shift forks or crank seals where it wouldnt need to be down for long, you could leave the half moon clip off the cases when reassymbling everything, then once you get the side covers off you could just pull the cases apart by the case bolts, and not have to take the clutch assymbly ect apart.. though the clutch side gear and stator would still need to come off that would be much easier done with the clutches in place with an impact to get to the crank seals.. besides that its a much better illistration than whats in the clymers manual.. the pics arent in black and white.. but im sure there are some grease stains on some peoples screens after looking through this..lol 475696[/snapback] Good tips! I'm itching in my pants to get this thing running again with the stroker and cub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki0702 Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 Good tips! I'm itching in my pants to get this thing running again with the stroker and cub. 475699[/snapback] thats what im hangin around for!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capone Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 Red, do you have an instant messenger? I gotta chat with ya about a few things. Its not about splitting cases or anything, but about the looks of those pistons. I don't want to get this thread completely off topic so pm me a screen name if ya got... or an email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 Red, do you have an instant messenger? I gotta chat with ya about a few things. Its not about splitting cases or anything, but about the looks of those pistons. I don't want to get this thread completely off topic so pm me a screen name if ya got... or an email. 475777[/snapback] just pm me here. i don't give out my instant message names because then i have everybody and their brother bugging me about how to make their banshee faster. just use pm's here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 I've always said the HQ should have a "how to section" and this would be a great addition. Nice job so far Bigred! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polish Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 (edited) When I put a stroker crank in myself.............I didnt have to remove the clutch basket and the C-clip the holds the two halves togather...........Mine is a 2004 and I am the original owner.........weird..........I was told about the C-clip before my build last year by a mecanic..........im baffled ...........is it because my bike is a newer model.....(no one else has worked on my bike).......... and my cases split no problem!! anyways good work!..........this topic should be pinned for anyone else that wants to do it themselves!!! Edited February 19, 2006 by Polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2006 Here's two shots after I washed the cases at work. Only took 5 min at 170 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Many Toys Posted February 20, 2006 Report Share Posted February 20, 2006 The HQ definitely needs a how to section. I hate reading the damn clymer manual unless its a last resort. I would rather see it done first hand like this. Great job and great descriptions and pictures. Thanks for going out of your way to make it easier for us who have never seen it done before. Good Job!!! Now get that som bitch back together so you can get rippen at the dunes. Maybe even bring it down to Sand Mountain and really test it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted February 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2006 The HQ definitely needs a how to section. I hate reading the damn clymer manual unless its a last resort. I would rather see it done first hand like this. Great job and great descriptions and pictures. Thanks for going out of your way to make it easier for us who have never seen it done before. Good Job!!! Now get that som bitch back together so you can get rippen at the dunes. Maybe even bring it down to Sand Mountain and really test it out 476540[/snapback] Thanks for support! I got it all together for the most part today. Only waiting on a new clutch and billet impeller then I can start on the top end. I still need some small stuff, as well as my new swinger and roundhouse carrier. Still trying to decide between a spacer plate or cut domes. Not sure. Talking to K&T about it. I am also going to send my cub cylinders to them to get ported for the 4mm some time next week I hope. After I get it running I will take it to the killpecker dunes for jetting, then I should be good to go. After it's running right and all the jetting is taken care of I am going to head down to Walden for some fun. I think the snow should be mostly melted by the point I am ready to go down there. We have a trip planned for Sand Mt. for easter weekend if Rick (my friend with 10mm Trex) gets his bike put together before then. I will keep everyone updated with how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted February 21, 2006 Report Share Posted February 21, 2006 Thanks for support! I got it all together for the most part today. Only waiting on a new clutch and billet impeller then I can start on the top end. I still need some small stuff, as well as my new swinger and roundhouse carrier. Still trying to decide between a spacer plate or cut domes. Not sure. Talking to K&T about it. I am also going to send my cub cylinders to them to get ported for the 4mm some time next week I hope. After I get it running I will take it to the killpecker dunes for jetting, then I should be good to go. After it's running right and all the jetting is taken care of I am going to head down to Walden for some fun. I think the snow should be mostly melted by the point I am ready to go down there. We have a trip planned for Sand Mt. for easter weekend if Rick (my friend with 10mm Trex) gets his bike put together before then. I will keep everyone updated with how it goes. 476584[/snapback] Good illustration, appreciate your time and effort. A question though. What do you need a spacer plate for? Cubs don't require a spacer plate since each cub is already casted for the stroke. They do require cut domes and 795 series or blaster pistons depending on 65mm or 68mm bore size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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