playtops Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 I have a few questions, I recently bought the special 2006 banshee and bought t5s and the uni filters. I am going to be running with no airbox with the filters and t5s and i was wondering where around to start my jetting off. I was thinking around 300 or 310 and then seeing how it comes out from there, what do you think. My second question is all the books are saying take the carbs off to jet. My buddies tell me that you are able to just swing the carb around and you are able to access the side of the carb where the jet. The books are also saying to jet one sie at a time is that also true. Thanks John P.S. Any input is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ls7colorado Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 the jets are on the bottom of the carb obove the bowl, if you had a single carb you MIGHT could get away with jetting while still on the atv..... But you will not be able to move the clip on the needle's without removing the carb tops. Id say 4th clip on the needles, 27.5 pilots and 300 or 310 mains. Do you have the clampon filters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1.6i Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Whats your elevation? Im at sea level running 340's with t5's and K&N individuals stock pilots and needles moved one clip.. yes jet one at a time... For me i just removed the complete carbs (one at a time), i wouldnt want anything to fall out when the carb is sidways on the engine...thats just me..maybe when im a pro at jetting i could do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003LimitedBanshee Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 If you are running the Toomey (Uni) 2:1 High Flow filter, and you are near sea level, approx 60 degrees I would say you should be nearer to 330 on the mains. I'm running stock pilots with .5 on the air screws. Also, I've got the Dynojet needles that come with the Toomey kit set on the 4th clip. What other mods, if any, do you have? What elevation, air temp etc.? As far as removing the carbs I would do it; especially if you have the 2:1 Filter. It will only take you a few minutes to pull the carbs and you have much more room to work with on the bench. The main problem many people seem to have when rejetting the carbs at the same time is switching the float bowls on the carbs. But if you are concerned just tear one carb down, change your jet and then tear the other carb down. Changing jets itself is not hard, getting proper jetting isn't that hard either (in my opinion), and can make the difference in a bike running hard, and running really hard, and trouble free I might add. You just need to take your time dialing in all RPM ranges (pilot, needle, main) and paying attention to what your plugs and bike are telling you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playtops Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 I am at sea level or about 200 ft up. I am in sacramento and today is around 70 degrees.bike is bone stock... I am adding the t5s the filters and the sprockets all at one time. The filters i have are the uni single filters and i am going to remove the air box. I was told they were better than the 2-1. I was told to pretty much leave the idle air screw alone and the needles where they are stock and dont mess with the pilot jet. Not sure if this is all true. THe t5 set i bought is pips and silencers only. So i bought the jets and filters sepertly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 I have the clamp on K&Ns and Uni (toomey) 2 into 1. Close to sea level... I have 330 mains and 27.5 pilots (Stock is 25). Air screw between 1 and 2.5 turns out (depending on temps) If you use Toomey's needles (Dynojet) you'll be on the fourth clip down from the blunt end. Stock needles (which have 5 grooves, vs. the 6 grooves on the toomey needles) you'll be in the middle. Start with your air screws 1.5 turns out from the lightly seated position, and you'll have to fine tune it from there.... With no airbox, removing the carbs is a breeze. Once you do...though, double and triple check to make sure they're still sync'd up once you put it all back together.... Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playtops Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I have the clamp on K&Ns and Uni (toomey) 2 into 1. Close to sea level... Once you do...though, double and triple check to make sure they're still sync'd up once you put it all back together.... Good luck... What do you mean by this. I did it all last night and the bike seems to idle good and i took it for a quick spin and it ran good. I havent done the spark plug check yet but i will be doing that this weekend when i get some more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003LimitedBanshee Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 What do you mean by this. I did it all last night and the bike seems to idle good and i took it for a quick spin and it ran good. I havent done the spark plug check yet but i will be doing that this weekend when i get some more time. 471516[/snapback] What he is referring to is making sure that the carb slides are sync'd, meaning that they both begin to move up the slide bores at exactly the same time. However, if you did not install a TORS eliminator kit, nothing you would have done could cause the sync of the carbs to change. The only problem you could encounter, should be if the carbs were not sync'd properly to begin with. You can check this pretty easily with the filters removed. Simply feel through the back of the carbs at the same time and slightly crack the the throttle until you feel the slides move. They should start to move at the same time. If they do not you will need to adjust the sync using the large, dime-sized, silver knobs on top of the TORS units. Adjust the slide that moves last until it moves at the same time as the first slide. But again, in theory nothing you did installing the pipes and filters alone, would have caused this to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre03 Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I'm pretty sure you need to re synch your carbs anytime you take the top of your carbs off. (i.e. moving the needle clip) Could be wrong, but it's worth the small amount of time it takes to check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I only took this for granted once. Any time I take my carbs off...even if it's only to spin 'em sideways to change the main, I always double check the sync... I overlooked it once. The cable could've been bound or routed a little different, etc. Bottom line is...for the 2 minutes it'll take to make triple sure the slides are in perfect sync...or as in perfect of sync as they're going to be by the naked eye...it's worth doing and checking, period. This is all much easier once you install the TORS removal and idle screw kit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playtops Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Well i didnt remover the tors all i did was remove the carb from the motor and turned it so i could access the bottom of the carb . I will check either way. Also i do alot of ridding at sand mountain. About how much do i need to down jet to go up there? I know every motor is different as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.