MX should be more low end? What do I need?

[01bansheefox]

Also you read it wrong...... I was adding what i have spent on those items and if you do add them up it equals $1,025..... so if I trade those items for his 2 into 1 wouldnt that mean I pretty much spent $1,025 for a 2 into 1 setup?

[Shee-Male]

Like some of the others suggested, spend the money on the chassis and suspention, even if you only put pipes on the engine it will haul ass around the track once you get the suspension dialed in!

[01bansheefox]

I already have +4 axel, +2 +1 a-arms and tcs zps shocks

[ellison445]

I thought you ran a 100hp cheetah cub setup????

 

If you want the best MX motor you need to go with a low port timing 7MM stroker engine. If you do this and have a reputable engine builder do it the bike will have roughly 60-65 HP and 50FT/LB's of torque, trust me on this. This same combo is what i have and it is smooth. Don't fall on the bandwagon of lightening your flywheel, keep the heavy flywheel. This will help smooth out the power hit and make it manageable to ride, if I could add weights to mine I would.

 

I run Trinity Pipes and 35MM A/S carbs and it is really smooth, ultimately some 28MM PWK Kehien's bored to 30MM are the best setup and will outperform the 2into1 in all facet's of the game. For MX I run the 30's and for the dunes I put on my 35MM A/S's. For gearing MX with the 30's I run 16-38 and Dunes I run 14-39. Trust me I have tried everything and you cannot have a better setup for the best of both worlds.

 

The only difference is I raised my exhaust port a little higher than normal to gain some on top and it is a little bit to handle once you get going. It pulls like freight train.

My exact combo makes roughly 80 to the wheels and just over 50 FT/LB's of torque. The only problem with a motor like this is you have to learn throttle control and be smooth. If you can do this, this is a 4-stroke eater no matter what. It just takes time, practice and unGodly physical conditioning.

( and God knows I don't have that)

 

If you want more info on how to get a motor like this built PM me and I can get you hooked up with the right shop to build it.

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[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

I thought you ran a 100hp cheetah cub setup????

470095[/snapback]

100HP mx bike that has to be a trophy magnet.

[Blue Duece]

I already have +4 axel, +2 +1 a-arms and tcs zps shocks

465439[/snapback]

youd be better off with a stock axle for mx, every obsticle you hit the wider your bike and the more off camber the harder it is to hang on to, if you could somehow shorten the stock axle youd go faster.........think of a teeter toter as a kid the longer the volcrum the more your bounceing side to side, a wide front end is good but if your ass end is too wide your in for an ass kickin over the rough stuff

[01bansheefox]

Every MX quad i have seen ALWAYS has an extended axel.

[Blue Duece]

Obviously you have no idea what you are talking about or you are severly uneducated on the subject. A stock axle width with +2 a-arms is not the way to go.

The wider you are the better cornering stability you will have, both in front and rear. You can adjust the width in the rear to accomodate different style tracks and different terrain but adjusting the width is only going to gain you better traction by narrowing up the rear.

 

On a side note, once you do narrow up your rear end you can upset the cornering stability and it will try and 2 wheel on you, this is bad and this is also why we all spend the money on a good wider axle.

 

For good tacky tracks I widen mine out as far as it will go, this will help you get the back end to slide around the corners. Then on really loose tracks I will narrow it up to gain the traction I need to get around the corners.

 

If you have it set wide on a loose track the bike will try and spin out on you but if you narrow it up it will be easier to control and you can make it hook up coming out of the corners.

 

Another thing to help with traction on a loose track is stiffen up your rear shock and slow down the rebound just a little. You don't want to go too far or when you land a jump it will be very stiff but if you have good shocks a couple clicks stiffer will help with the traction.

470359[/snapback]

yer right i havent got a fuckin clue, ive only raced district 37 motos in the cali desert for 16 years.......+4, show me a banshee mx bike with a +4,thats winning races, its plus two.........and i agree for corners the wider the better...what about the straight whoop sections moron? fuck the corners lean asshole how you gettin over a half mile of ruts and whoops, you aint racin flat track jackass, shift your weight and you can slide through a corner provideing you bike has the nuts to breakem loose, if that fuckers to wide your riding a fuckin pogo stick

i said youd be better off with a stock axle than a plus 4, why not put a +6 swing arm on it too . fuck it just get a sand rail for mx, think about it why can a two wheeler blow past you in the whoops, he's not dealing with side to side and up and down, his ass end is just hopping up and down yours is bouncing both ways, the wider your rear end the more your transfering side to side, if you had a 8 foot wide axle your bike would roughly jump 4 feet off the ground, one wheel at a time, side to side....if your banshee had a single rear tire mounted in the center youd go about 4 times faster than you do now over whoops........

Edited February 9, 2006 by Blue Duece

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

Oh and if your ass end is swapping from side to side then your shock is not set up right. Desert racing is completely different and i do not hve any experience with that. The original post started out about MX racing.

 

and i can tell you right now I have not been out run by a bike thru the whoops ever. Sof if they are going faster than you then I would suggest you work on your suspension setup.

470877[/snapback]

The rear shock has nothing to do with the side to side motion that Duece is talking about. Unless your shee has independent rear suspension?

 

Duece I think you have a challenge. I'd like to hear the outcome of your bike against his all encompasing 250R geometry 7mm engine bike.

[Blue Duece]

and i can tell you right now I have not been out run by a bike thru the whoops ever. Sof if they are going faster than you then I would suggest you work on your suspension setup.

470877[/snapback]

oh yeah i forgot, a 200 pound two wheeler, cant soak up whoops and ruts as well as a 350 pound four wheeler, when i race my imanginary friends i win every time too, is this track your riding on paved by chance?

[ellison445]

This was you that said this, Correct

 

If I offended you by my comments I apologize so sit down and pull your thong out of your ass and take it easy.

 

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[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

Oh and I know your just jealous of my all encompasing 250R geometry 7mm engine bike.      just kidding.

471128[/snapback]

I'm jealous, I'd love to have that frame. And I considered it but unless I was a racer I couldn't justify the money to do it. The engine on the other hand is something I'm skeptical of for the application. Your engine would seem dramatically starved if you run a 2 into 1 or twin 30mm carbs, strokers like to drink and breath. I'd like to see some vids of you on a track to see how well it works. I didn't say anything that I would consider a personal attack in your quoted post.

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

My thing with your motor is that as you say you starve it is that you aren't using it to it's full potential, which seems like an odd rcomendation to others. This is very similar to the trail friendly posts on the Cheetah Cubs. In order to make the Cub manageable it needed to be detuned to a state similar to that of a say stock jug mx ported 4mm. I just don't see any point in taking a purpose built engine and "detuning" it for another purpose when you could build an engine for exactly what you want much cheaper and in turn utilize the full potential of the engine. I guess what I'm saying is why use 60% of a 100HP engine when you can use 100% of a 60HP engine?

[RNBRAD]

I've always said you can't have the best low end and top end performance that a single engine is capable of producing. You really have to pick one or the other or maybe a state of tune in between (depending on application). It's kind of like these high powered crotch rocket engines with the intake and exhaust valves. They tune these things down so they will develop good low end torque. It restricts the intake and restricts the exhaust at lower rpm's. So there is a benefit to this madness. It would be nice to have a cub motor you could choke off like this at lower rpm's and let breath at high rpms, then everyone would be happy.

[Blue Duece]

Desert racing and MX are completely different,  I simple said witha properly setup rear shock you should not get any side to side rear end swapping around.

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let me see if i can explain this to you im racing mx in the desert, that means our tracks are groomed man made mx tracks, glen helen, adelanto. victorville, barstow........... your rear shock soaks up and down motion, not side to side, your quad does not have independent rear suspension like it does in the front, its really not rocket science , any off camber terrain effects the way your quad reacts, if your axle is long its covering over 5 feet of any given whoop or rut your riding over, therefore you do bounce side to side as well as up and down, so lets say over 5 feet you hit a whoop at 50mph and on the left side of your bike the whoop is 2 feet tall but to the right 5 feet away the whoop is 10 inches taller your quad will bounce side to side, then side to side again till it levels out, but right about then you hit the next whoop which wasnt the same as the last whoop, now you just start bounceing side to side and so on, thats why when you do a 45 minute moto on a quad you have gotten your ass kicked completly, thats providing your shocks are great and set up properly, if not you ate shit the first lap and your buddie ran you the fuck over..........