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What next?


ozosborne

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Hi Guys!

 

Any suggestions as to what mods to do next. I've done the pipes, jetting and filter. Are there other forms of bolt on power or is the next step the engine.

 

I've read about some guys saying to take the TORS off. Is this difficult and do I gain anything by doing it? :)

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Well, I guess you could get some reeds, and maybe an adjustable timing plate. Your next big gain is going to come from porting though. And if your going to spend the money for v forces, hell you might as well spend a little more and port it instead. Taking the tors off is more "preventing a future pain in the ass" than really getting any kind of a gain. It's just prone to failure which will cause un neccesary headaches.

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I reckon I'll start looking around here for an adjustable timing plate then. Can anybody give me a step by step guide to removing the TORS. :cheers: BTW what the hell is it there for anyway? :confused: Or is it like your appendix or tonsils?!? :jesterlaugh:

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Yep, it's like your appendix- Doesn't do a damn bit of good but could cause problems.

The main thing I hated about my TORS was needle adjustments- it was such a bitch to do with all that crap on there! A TORS eliminator kit can be found most anywhere, at bike shops and online catalog places (I like rockymountainatv.com). Costs like $30 and has everthing you need with instructions.

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I've tried the bolt ons and there is a little horsepower gain to be found.Once you get it ported,that is a whole different story.A good dune port should increase torque and hp.Mine was actually easier to ride after it was ported(more torque).It was money well spent.A timing plate and cylinder head that will give you more compression will be a good idea.If you do buy the aftermarket cylinder head,make sure you talk to whoever is going to be doing the porting to see which domes they suggest.

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I have already started calling about the porting. If i put a set of aftermarket carbs on would that also eliminate the TORS? What am I looking for that will work for future mods as well?

 

Thanks for the input guys! Really appreciated! :cheers:

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For a lot less money than a new head you can have your stock head milled and re-chambered. I had CT Racing do that years ago and it made a huge difference - not as much as the porting will do, but a good inexpensive mod none-the-less. I think I paid something like $80 back then, but I would imagine its not much more now.

 

Rooster :dance:

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Aftermarket carbs WILL eliminate the TORS. As long as they come with tops and idle speed adjustment screw, which they should. And I do agree with Rooster on the head milling. Had mine done for like $50 and it made a world of difference. Combined with an adjustable stator plate, you will be able to get big gains with race gas and still be able to run super unleaded safely, albeit with smaller gain. It's money well spent.

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For a lot less money than a new head you can have your stock head milled and re-chambered. I had CT Racing do that years ago and it made a huge difference - not as much as the porting will do, but a good inexpensive mod none-the-less.  I think I paid something like $80 back then, but I would imagine its not much more now.

 

Rooster  :dance:

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I had the stock head done also, help alot. when my piston let go it messed the head up. I got a noss head and my engine runs alot cooler now, which makes more power, the engine will last longer, and it looks alot better.

Awesome mod. check into eric gorrs porting, great power bottom to top. about $250

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Well Slimeball, the stator plate sits behind the flywheel. The pickups which determine when the spark fires are located on this plate as well as the stator windings that produce electrical power. By slightly rotating the plate, we can change when the spark occurs in the combustion cycle. Basically the only difference between an adjustable plate and a fixed plate are that the plate mounting holes are slotted in the adjustable style. You can modify your factory plate to accomplish the same thing, but you will need to use a small measuring stick to determine the amount of timing adjustment you are setting, while the aftermarket plates have the marks cast into them.

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I'll expand a bit more on what ssanddemon said. By advancing the timing you get gains from bottom to top. Unfortunately there's a limit to this. Too much advance and you can run into overheating or even detonation issues (detonation can be cured by running a higher octane fuel).

 

Along the same lines is an aftermarket/milled stock head. Either will increase the compression giving you gains bottom to top. Again though, there's a limit. Too much compression will also lead to detonation if you aren't running race gas. Combining the two mods can be done, but you have to do some research to find out what you can safely run at your elevation. Most guys stick with a +4 degree timing advance and like 20 or 21 cc domes at sea level.

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