badbanshee01 Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Hello, This is my first post on this site so I am hoping for some good advice. It all started yesterday when I went for a ride.When I first started it up and warmed it up for a little bit, it would backfire right before it would hit the powerband. This has never happened before. It has very few hours on it so I dought the rings are bad. Things even got worse at the end of my ride. By the end of the ride the backfiring (a loud boom out the exhaust) went away but now there was a new problem. When in nuetral if I would push the throttle 1/4 of the way or less and the motor would redline and would continue to do this even when I let off the throttle. However, the most weird part is that when it would go full throttle by itself when I shut both the key and switch to off the motor would still run at full throttle I finally got it to come back down when i blirped the throttle. This is very weird, it is the first time it has happened to me and I would think when you would shut the ignition off that the motor would quit, but it doesn't! I have heard of many problems with the tors going bad so I was thinking this might be the problem. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
applpro Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Hello, This is my first post on this site so I am hoping for some good advice. It all started yesterday when I went for a ride.When I first started it up and warmed it up for a little bit, it would backfire right before it would hit the powerband. This has never happened before. It has very few hours on it so I dought the rings are bad. Things even got worse at the end of my ride. By the end of the ride the backfiring (a loud boom out the exhaust) went away but now there was a new problem. When in nuetral if I would push the throttle 1/4 of the way or less and the motor would redline and would continue to do this even when I let off the throttle. However, the most weird part is that when it would go full throttle by itself when I shut both the key and switch to off the motor would still run at full throttle I finally got it to come back down when i blirped the throttle. This is very weird, it is the first time it has happened to me and I would think when you would shut the ignition off that the motor would quit, but it doesn't! I have heard of many problems with the tors going bad so I was thinking this might be the problem. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks 445748[/snapback] unplug the tors at the carbs & unplug the wires going to the parking brake. this should eliminate any tors problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cotton eyed Joe Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Hello, This is my first post on this site so I am hoping for some good advice. It all started yesterday when I went for a ride.When I first started it up and warmed it up for a little bit, it would backfire right before it would hit the powerband. This has never happened before. It has very few hours on it so I dought the rings are bad. Things even got worse at the end of my ride. By the end of the ride the backfiring (a loud boom out the exhaust) went away but now there was a new problem. When in nuetral if I would push the throttle 1/4 of the way or less and the motor would redline and would continue to do this even when I let off the throttle. However, the most weird part is that when it would go full throttle by itself when I shut both the key and switch to off the motor would still run at full throttle I finally got it to come back down when i blirped the throttle. This is very weird, it is the first time it has happened to me and I would think when you would shut the ignition off that the motor would quit, but it doesn't! I have heard of many problems with the tors going bad so I was thinking this might be the problem. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks 445748[/snapback] Sounds like an air leak to me. The back firing could be caused by a leaned condition due to an air leak, as well as the "runaway" idle problem. You are closing the carbs but due to the air leak it continues to suck in air. When you kill it with the key, there is a chance that the cylinder is so hot from running lean that the air fuel emulsion just detonates by itself. When you "blirped" the throttle, you allowed extra fuel to come into the cylinder causing it to cool off and die. Anyone else on this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre03 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 I'm not an expert by any means, but I would say Cotton's theory sounds like the logical place to start. I'd deffinatly look for air leaks as your first step. Also I haven't heard of tors causing the engine to rev higher... only preventing you from being able to rev it higher. If you have an air leak you deffinatly don't want to be running it with out fixing that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee01 Posted December 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 THanks for the advice everyone. Where would the air leak probally be? I was pretty sure it wasn't the tors also, so it probally is a air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 I've had troubles with the carbs sticken and the idle clibing, it would also backfire befor it warmed up, when its dry no probs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee tuner Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Those factory carb boots tear around the balance tube, especially if you have a boost bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee01 Posted December 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 I'll check for air leaks on the boots of the carb. How do you do a leak down test to check for these? Would a air leak cause it to backfire when cold, idle very high, and have to be started with the choke on? Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian060 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 IT IS NOT A TORS PROBLEM!!!! I have the carb sticking problem too. It usually happens when its cold or you hit water. Cleant he carbs alot or get new ones. I didnt have the high idol problem, that may be tors, but the throttle sticking isnt. Peace out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast87 Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 check your plug color and clean your air filter!! that might help...if the air cleaner looks dirty clean it..just to be sure ~Mark~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightninn Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 I'm with Cotton on this one. The TORS will not make the engine rpms "run away" like that. It's function is to do exactly the opposite and kill the engine if your carb slide(s) sticks when you let off the thumb throttle. What you are experiencing is an air leak. That air leak is causing a severe lean condition which results in all kinds of nasty things like backfires, high engine temps, stuck rings, detonation, and your seemingly possessed engine. It simply kept running because of exactly what Cotton described. Check the carb boots. They are either cracked or most likely torn right where the clamps are located. This usually happens because of over tightening the clamps. Also check to see if your carb tops are tight on the carb bodies. A quick and easy way to check for air leaks is to start the engine and warm it up a little. Then let it sit there and idle. Next spray little shots of starting fluid around the carb boots and intake. If the engine rpm's increase when you spray it, then you've found your leak. ONLY SPRAY LITTLE SHOTS!! It doesn't take much. Lightninn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r6rider04 Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 this sounds exactly like what mine was doing, and it ended being the choke tube between the carbs, i put it back on and was fine, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee01 Posted December 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 THanks for all the great advice guys. I'll check that stuff out this weekend and see what it does. I just hope I don't have to tear into my engine and replace a seal that is sucking air. thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crank67 Posted December 10, 2005 Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 (edited) all simtem sound like tube be twene the carbs if its not of check for a hole in it had happen to me once but i would check your carbs out find out if its cable stickin throtel sticking can cause long term problems best thing get a nother set ov carbs yes you can run it un pluged onley thing is if throtel sticks it wont shut down when you let off Edited December 14, 2005 by crank67 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbanshee01 Posted December 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Ok, So I snugged up all the boots going to the carb and one of the tops was loose on the carb so I tightened that up also. Then I also disconnected the tors system. I started it up and it ran perfectly. It would idle nice and start without the choke when hot, which it wouldn't do before. My question is can I run the quad with the tors just disconnected? or do i have to get a removal kit? Thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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