BansheeBrian Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 I need to straighten out my subframe so I can send it to powder.What is the best method for straightening?Rolling my shee down a hill was the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Roll your shee down the same hill but use the oposite rotation. Never had to straighten one but I'd guess you'd have to get some prybars and work it till it's where you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNARACE Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Depending on how bad it is tweeked, I had to straighten one on an automotive frame machine. After several attempts to bend, pry, and twist in the home garage. Those frames are much more difficult to get back into shape than what I had antisipated. Good Luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYUK Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 just use a long piece of pipe that fits over the rear subframe, grab bar removed.bend it whichever way it needs to be bent back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reded Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Usually a 3-4 ft piece of pipe and a large deadblow hammer will get em back into shape in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 Just get an oxy-acetaline torch and heat that guy up to red hot on each of the mounts and you could bend it back real easy, then just douse it with some room-temp water so you get your strength back. You don't want to use really cold water or you risk it cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2twin350s Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 cheater bar has worked for me. you can also use a porta power hydraulic ram kit. but you will have to chain or bolt the frame to the floor.or if the bike is all together yet, you can put the porta power between the swingarm and sub frame,use blocks of wood so you do not crimple the tubes on the bike,and start appling the pressure to the ram. they work good and you dont break a sweat. you can prolly rent a porta power at auto-zone or napa for 30 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted December 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 I will try NYUK's method then I'll give Reded's a shot then try 2Twin350's a shot then will try what BigRed suggested then if all else fails then I'll resort to P.T.T's crazy idea. It's tweaked pretty good.I wish uncle NYUK painted his A-arm frame gloss black.I would have paid a good price for it.If things don't work on this frame Fire a PM my way if someone has a PC black frame in mint condition.I have plenty of $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted December 4, 2005 Report Share Posted December 4, 2005 I would save the torch for a last resort. Doing that will take the temper out of the steel, and you will not be able to get the strength back. Tempering is more than getting it red hot, and then pouring water on it. All that does is make it extremely brittle. Automotive frame machine would be your best bet. Shouldn't cost too much either if you look around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBrian Posted December 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 Even if I used the torch I would let it cool down on it's own.I don't want to mess with the frame too much.These frames aren't made of the best steel.I think Yamaha skims off the top of the pots at the foundrys and uses that.Like the fat in a cold pot of soup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 I will try NYUK's method then I'll give Reded's a shot then try 2Twin350's a shot then will try what BigRed suggested then if all else fails then I'll resort to P.T.T's crazy idea. It's tweaked pretty good.I wish uncle NYUK painted his A-arm frame gloss black.I would have paid a good price for it.If things don't work on this frame Fire a PM my way if someone has a PC black frame in mint condition.I have plenty of $$$. 444895[/snapback] if you have plenty of money, then why not just buy a nice aftermarket frame?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 a big bar and an extra pair of hand always works for me, depending on were and how bad its tweeked you may have to cut and reweld some of the gussets. But deffinatly keep the tourches away from yur frame just like dawarriorman was sayin!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smkmupbanshee Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 We used a winch and some big pipes to flex my buddys frame back. We layed it out on a table and bolted it down and pulled it from there. It worked good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 Plenty of money could get you a brand new LE frame for like $550 at the stealer. Heating it up and quenching it will take out the ductility and it will crack in the future. Cold work it with some bars, pipes, winches or porta power is your best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast500#12 Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 4 foot pipe and a buddy to stand on the axle if installed if not sit on the frame. worked good for me. mine was like 4 inches down on the right side a 2 and ahalf on the left after it went end over end 6 times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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