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Posted

when i switched them out i could see the tusk seemed to be holding up just fine on my drag ported cheetah cub and did my old 350old dune setup i had , i would love to say the fzr is alot better and superior to a tusk cause i could warrant the swap and extra price , the other compenants are key ..that and run all 6 stiff ass springs will make all the difference between slipping and gripping :bolt: it isnt all hp either imo ... an mx/trails guy on a 50hp she whose constantly working his clutch will wear one out much sooner than a guy who is 80hp duneing all day :)

Posted (edited)
im sure thats true as well. but ive run those other clutches with brand new parts before with no luck. i will say that the tusk clutch in my bros 450 haslasted a long time and the barnett he had in there before lasted about 3 rides.

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I don't know why someone who dumps all the money in to get a 90HP+ banshee would skimp and buy the $35 clutch but that's me.

 

an mx/trails guy on a 50hp she whose constantly working his clutch will wear one out much sooner than a guy who is 80hp duneing all day

Welcome to my world of mx style trails and constant clutching. :dance:

Edited by PUSH THE THROTTLE
Posted
I don't know why someone who dumps all the money in to get a 90HP+ banshee would skimp and buy the $35 clutch but that's me.

 

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me either. fuck it, the thing works for me and obviously a lot of other ppl. spend 2 g's buildin a motor, whats another 95 bucks on a clutch? sure has worked for me and my brother..

Posted
I don't know why someone who dumps all the money in to get a 90HP+ banshee would skimp and buy the $35 clutch but that's me.

 

 

I run what works. If you could cut all of your performance mods cost by 2/3, wouldn't it be worth it? I'd bet I could gain a sliver of HP here or there going to a $250 dyna and dump my $35 timing plate, but it works. I offered loco $150 for the front fullbores off his CR500 quad, but he held out for $25 more for over a week, and I know he's got a helluva lot more disposable income than I do. Money is money. Save it where you can. :cheers:

Posted
I run what works.  If you could cut all of your performance mods cost by 2/3, wouldn't it be worth it?  I'd bet I could gain a sliver of HP here or there going to a $250 dyna and dump my $35 timing plate, but it works.  I offered loco $150 for the front fullbores off his CR500 quad, but he held out for $25 more for over a week, and I know he's got a helluva lot more disposable income than I do.  Money is money.  Save it where you can.  :cheers:

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that true..ive just never had any other clutch last..what kinda clutch u runnin in ur cub??

Posted
that true..ive just never had any other clutch last..what kinda clutch u runnin in ur cub??

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The tusk one that was in my old motor. I got Toomey springs all the way around though.

Posted
I cant speak for the Tusk kits other than what i have heard on here (some have tried them with modified motors with no luck) but our F.A.S.T.  clutch kits are NOT like stock for sure!!

I dont use the oem  fzr fibers/steels  so maybe that is where the different findings come from im not sure.

  The friction plates and steels we use are much wider than stock for more seating/gripping area. And the springs are not the wimpy little +10% heavier springs some of the other kits use. 

      If those work for you im glad but i do know that most all the fastest bikes in the country have the setup like we sell and there IS a reason for it!  Seems like a lot of shops sell the kits kind of like ours for $130.00.  Damn that is high compared to $95.00  ! I do also know they our alot better than Barnetts as we have tried them and replaced a ton of them. They also wont muddy up the tranny oil like Kevlar barnetts do! :(

    I think Loco has tried Tusk and F.A.S.T. Clutches ,  I dont see him going back to tusk for sure!!  If he cant tear em up nobody can !! LOL :jesterlaugh:

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Jeff, you say that the plates and the steels that you use are wider than stock. Where does the extra width come from? Do you gain the extra width from not using the cushions? Why don't you post a pic, showing the difference between your set-up and the stock set-up. I just don't understand how you can have a wider clutch plate without increasing the size of the basket.

Posted
Jeff, you say that the plates and the steels that you use are wider than stock.  Where does the extra width come from?  Do you gain the extra width from not using the cushions?  Why don't you post a pic, showing the difference between your set-up and the stock set-up.  I just don't understand how you can have a wider clutch plate without increasing the size of the basket.

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i'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the cushions. i put a clutch in that has plates and steels that are larger than stock and i had to remove the cushions in order to accomodate the larger clutch.

Posted

I've been running a Yamaha TZ clutch in my bike for at least ten years without a failure. My motor is putting out about 70-75 HP and I dump from full throttle in second gear a LOT at the sand drags with paddles. Never slips.

 

Rooster :bolt:

Posted
i'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the cushions. i put a clutch in that has plates and steels that are larger than stock and i had to remove the cushions in order to accomodate the larger clutch.

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What do the cushions do and why would you want to remove them? Fill me in on that. Im probley going with the street bike clutch because it will last longer.

Posted
Jeff, you say that the plates and the steels that you use are wider than stock.  Where does the extra width come from?  Do you gain the extra width from not using the cushions?  Why don't you post a pic, showing the difference between your set-up and the stock set-up.  I just don't understand how you can have a wider clutch plate without increasing the size of the basket.

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I think the width jeff is refering to is the friction area on the plate..More surface area = more grip. Not the thickness of the plate.

 

It did sound kinda confusing tho.

Posted (edited)

fast... what are the fibers from then? if you dont use the fzr plates that i installed and tested?you cant reallly go much different on these to fit in your basket and/or housing assembly ,a cltuch can only vary slightly due to the space parameters in the stock basket .the fzr stack up width is equal to the tusk one .many customers say that yours is in fact the fzr fibers with stock plates and barnett springs?it would probably clear up alot of confusion... for me anyways . i have the yamaha numbers and im certain they are right ones everyone uses for the high performance setup ,maybe its just that the tusk clutch is also beefier than stock and im comparing 2 heavier duty clutch fiber designs to one another,wish i had some stock fibers /plates laying around :blink:

Edited by rocketboy
Posted
fast... what are  the fibers from then? if you dont use  the fzr plates that i installed and tested?you cant reallly go much different on these to fit in your basket and/or housing  assembly ,a cltuch can only vary slightly due to the space parameters in the stock basket .the  fzr stack up width  is equal to the tusk one .many customers say that yours is in fact the fzr fibers with stock plates and barnett springs?it would  probably clear up alot of confusion... for me anyways  . i have the yamaha numbers and  im certain  they are  right ones everyone uses  for the high performance setup ,maybe its just that the tusk clutch is also beefier than stock and im comparing 2 heavier duty clutch fiber designs  to one another,wish i had some stock fibers /plates laying around  :blink:

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This is what I'm say'n.

Posted

I'm very interested in seeing some pics.

 

rocketboy...what do you want to measure?, I got my mic. & stock stuff right here?

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