racer Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 I think I am going to weld the crank to for $50 At a local shop? 432735[/snapback] do you know all the work involved in removing a crank. its fairly difficult if you dont know whats going on. be sure to get a manual and be careful to seat those seals properly. personally if i was going to split the case id forget the head and take care of some other things while im in there. whether it be a modified shift star, or turning down the flywheel. those are just simple things you are going to remove anyway and will make a big dif in the way you rev and shift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 Gimmeabeer is right, I wouldn't mess with the crank unless your doing something else at the time such as a rebuild. Most people won't run into problems with a stock crank mine ran for years with high compression and an unwelded crank. Personally I think get a head so you can up your compression and in the future you'll be able to replace domes as necessary for other mods you may do. Sell your old head on ebay and buy a timing plate or modify the one you have for free and then lighten that flywheel since you don't need to split the cases to remove it, and your shee will be a whole new animal with minimal work and it'd be money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbobanshee_kid Posted November 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 My freind is my mechanic, but i have to pay him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshee03 Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 Should I get V-force 2 or 3's I plane no getting porting and cool head! i'd go with the v force 3's if you feel you want to go with reeds.the v force 2's are junk,the screws holding the petals are known to come loose and i have seen the whole inside part that holds the petals screw up.as for the head ,noss has a very good design and is the one that i'd buy.as for the crank ,i ran a stock crank that was not trued and welded for two yrs in the dirt drags and never had a problem with it ,but a crank can screw up at any time.i also do not care for the flywheel lightening thing.with the material being removed from the flywheel there is a greater chance of the flywheel shattering to pieces which i have heard of.just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 (edited) No way in hell the V2's are junk! I dunno if I trust snaps instead of screws you dont want the reed flyng into your cylinder either... but hell Might as well get 3's the perfoemance is supposed to be the same. I owuld have gone with the coolhead though. Your getting the crank Welded and Trued for $50? Thats a really good deal I hope they know what they are doing and have the right tools to true the crank... if the material is removed fromteh right area teh flywheel should not have ay issues with being lightened I would send it to boonman to do this is I was you. My stock crank was starting to seperate after 2 years but was still within spec so I had it welded and trued. Edited November 4, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfreak350 Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 PRO DESIGN is the only way to go look at all the really fast bike and see what they run........ and yeah the timeing plate is way less than $80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 PRO DESIGN is the only way to go look at all the really fast bike and see what they run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 pro design and noss head are basically the same. the noss heads do look way nicer, i have a pro design got it cheap. 2 each their own on the heads, depends on the price and look both are good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkabina Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 You would be surprised at how many of the fast guys are using NOSS heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icecold_shee Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 im going to do a top end rebuild this winter, crank has not been welded yet, what are yalls recommendations on where to send it to, any local machine shop or is there some where else better to go to, also, wheres a good place to get all the bearings and seals i need, this will be my first time so any help is a appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlnoss Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 Wes, I wasn't slamming the PD. I just thought the comment that I quoted was funny. I made (and ran) a head pretty similar to their design for a while. I wanted to eliminate the need for longer studs and make it cool more evenly so I designed the current version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkabina Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 Noss heads look better,and are alot easier to clean too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 Wes, I wasn't slamming the PD. I just thought the comment that I quoted was funny. I made (and ran) a head pretty similar to their design for a while. I wanted to eliminate the need for longer studs and make it cool more evenly so I designed the current version. 433039[/snapback] i wasnt bashing either head. just saying they are both good heads. and on doesnt make the bike super fast compared to the others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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