Wicked98Shee Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 i'd look for cracked or loose airboots cause it apears that ya definately have a airleak .. since i assume the jetting is spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman-hott Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Thanks sheefreak thats the site I used to have bookmarked. Been looking for it for awhile. Also +4 is common, I've seen +7 ran on drag bikes, I"m currently running +5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted November 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Ok now i am confused, maybe you can help out a little bit. Went to go get some replacement pistons, and am really confused. When I was out at the dunes they bored it .20 over. Now when I go to the dealership they say that there isnt such a thing and that it goes .25, .50, .75, 1.0, 1.25 etc. I called two places and they said the same exact thing.... am I missing a conversion or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
it's stolen Posted November 2, 2005 Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 was out at the dunes they bored it .20 over. Now when I go to the dealership they say that there isnt such a thing and that it goes .25, .50, .75, 1.0, 1.25 etc. I called two places and they said the same exact thing.... am I missing a conversion or something? 432152[/snapback] the numbers from the dealership are metric. .020 over is equal to .50 mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted November 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2005 Thanks for all the help guys. Going to be putting it all back together tonight + tomorrow, so I should have it all up and running before the weekend. My only concern at this point (besides the detonation/overheating issue) is that when I put the tranny back together last night, it would shift up & down but would get stuck everyonce in a while in between gears, should this clear up once there is oil in the cases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 If it is getting too hot I would check to see if the cooling system is working properly and does not have air in it....(Air lock) this will cause it not to flow and thus overheating.....D We have had two banshees come into the shop that I work at and this was the issue....D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3ban5shee0 Posted November 5, 2005 Report Share Posted November 5, 2005 my banshee did the same thing but it only destroyed my right piston so i rebuilt it and a week later same thing same cylinder got looking at it in the intake was craked right after the carbs got a new one havent had a problem yet as for the shifting it should be ok once you get it running its all ways kind of hard shifting through gears when its not running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted November 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2005 Well.. got her all back together and went riding this weekend. Seems good so far, didnt run it in the high RPM's much like I normally do, so its hard to say if the issue is resolved. I was runing 50/50 race gas and jetted rich (340 on the mains). I also installed one of the heatseeker temp gauges and it never got into the red, however it did come close. What temp. would be considered getting hot on a banshee, I am running engine ice and also installed a billet water impeller and just cant understand why it would be getting towards the red on the temp gauge unless the temp gauge coloring is inaccurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted November 7, 2005 Report Share Posted November 7, 2005 I shut my bike down when it hits 200 degrees. Ideally you wanna run around 145-155 since that's where you'll be most efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 (edited) Well.. revisting this one again. Bike is all back together, went riding 2 weeks ago.. seemed to be fine.. however i never got to open her up... the jackasses that were leading wanted to go 10mph the whole time (what a waste of a trip) so im still a little concerned since I am heading out to mother glamis next weekend. I tore the bike down completly and its all rebuilt. The last trip to be safe I jetted up (340 mains) and ran 50/50 race gas.... think i will be ok? Would it have blown up regardless of the rpm range if detonation was going on or if a air leak was present? I checked for airleaks by spraying it down with starter fluid.. seemed fine, but i dont have a leakdown tester to be safe. Only other thing that is in the back of my mind is that the throttle has been sticking bad the last 2 trips i have taken the bike out. It will stick whenever I hit the powerband and the only way to get it back is to blip the throttle. Cleaned the carbs good before the last 2 trips as well.... maybe a little sanding and lube is in order.. dont know if this is related to the blowing up issue or not. Edited December 12, 2005 by watkins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Banshee Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 If the troutle is sticking it might be your throutle cable is comming apart and causing it to hang up... Had a problem like that but it was stuck WIDE OPEN!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 Hehe...reminds me of my last twist throttle. Everytime you pinned it it'd get stuck there. Made for some interesting rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watkins Posted December 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 (edited) Whats the best way to check for airleaks besides using a leakdown tester? I have tried spraying start fluid and break cleaner all over the carbs, boots and cylinders and didnt notice a change in RPM.... is this the best way? I just dont want to drive all the way out to glamis this weekend to have her fall apart on me in like 2 min again.. like i said I did ride it a few weeks ago but never was in the High RPM ranges ever.... just trying to save myself some pissed off time out in the dunes. Also, I did install a temp gauge on the bike, if its running lean will that be apparent at all on the temp gauge? Will she heat up faster and hotter? or will she just go *poof*. So no thoughts on the throttle sticking? Could that be caused by and air leak? It only does it when hitting the powerband.. 0-1/2 throttle its fine. Edited December 13, 2005 by watkins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
race-a-holic Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 A friend of mine's banshee blew up a while back.It was from a small air leak.Check the boost bottle.His was a from a hair line crack on the boost bottle where the pipe rubbed up against it.He poured some water in it and it had a very,very small leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted January 9, 2007 Report Share Posted January 9, 2007 I think running rich would make you bike run cooler -- running lean, however, would make it heat up quick. I found an air leak on my bro's banshee doing the spray can test. Fixed it before any problems came up. It worked for me. Maybe you don't have an air leak? Damn hard problem to diagnose man I feel bad for you. Its a frekin big waste of $ to drive out to Glamis and have that thing f*ck up again. Where are you located? Im in San Diego. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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