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Overheating + High idling


Bernimx

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why would you have a toomey needle in a stock banshee do you have toomey pipes. if you don't thats your problem and your slides are probably sticking because of it.

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why would you have a toomey needle in a stock banshee do you have toomey pipes. if you don't thats your problem and your slides are probably sticking because of it.

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He has a 270 main in, so he probley has pipes. When you say high idling are you talking about it reving to about 1/4 or so throttle? Mine does that and I think they all do, just tap the throttle and it will go back down. List all of your mods.

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A list of your engine mods would be very helpful. Pipes, air filter setup, etc.? :)

 

Also, are you sure it's actually overheating? Every rebuild I've done it'll smoke a little bit because of the fresh grease and lube I put on all the moving parts...it'll burn off the first few times you ride it, at least mine does. If it is actually overheating, it may have been because you weren't moving fast enough. A banshee cannot sit and idle for extensive periods of time or be ridden lightly for too long. It needs the air flow across the radiator and engine to help keep it cool and prevent overheating. :shrugani: Another suggestion may be to switch to engine ice. It's coolant that will drop your overall temp just from running it. Kept my banshee cooler by 15 degrees on average.

 

As far as it revving up when you pull the clutch in, I'd be willing to bet your needle is sticking in the carb. When you changed the needles, did you grease the slides before putting them back in? It'll help them move better in the carb body if you slap a little grease on them :cheers:

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If your carbs are in sync and slides, cables etc. not sticking...sounds like a classic air leak, most likely crank seals, but could be base gaskets, reed gaskets. A major air leak makes the engine think the throttle is cracked causing poor idle, unstable and climbing idle speeds, slow engine decell, overheating, and in worst cases, engine speed runaway....Jim

Edited by PassionRE
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I settled a problem : I had only cheked the rear prestone tank and it was full but I forgot to chek the rad themselves. So I added prestone and the heating problem is gone. But now I can see some oil come out from a few nuts of the cylinder head. What's going on ? Bad torque or is it the gasket?

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I settled a problem : I had only cheked the rear prestone tank and it was full but I forgot to chek the rad themselves. So I added prestone and the heating problem is gone. But now I can see some oil come out from a few nuts of the cylinder head. What's going on ? Bad torque or is it the gasket?

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Every nuts on cylinder head was slack, I had to retorque them all to 20 pounds. My gasket also seem to be leaking. It is brand new. help!

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I'm going to have to agree with PassionRe. It sounds as though you have an air leak somewhere between the carbs and the engine. Typically, if the bike is running lean it will idle up and take longer to idle down if you rev it a little while stopped (or when pulling in the clutch). You can check to see if you have an air leak around the intake boots, or the reeds by spraying carb cleaner. It's nice because it won't leave much if any residue, and you'll be able to tell if you have a leak. When you hit the leak, you will notice a definite bog, if it doesn't kill it, depending on how bad of a leak you have. All the troubles you've had are why I like doing my own work... you always know what has and hasn't been done. Good Luck

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Every nuts on cylinder head was slack, I had to retorque them all to 20 pounds. My gasket also seem to be leaking. It is brand new. help!

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to me sounds like you ran it out of water. it got hot. now your gasket is blown out. i would pull the head off and see what the gasket looks like adn make sure the head isnt warped if its stock.

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