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T5 bike jetting question


01 B4C

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When I put my plate on...I didn't touch my jetting...just an FYI.

 

You're going to love it coupled with the flywheel....

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I assume the plate will come with directions, but how does it work? It allows the plate to pivot to adjust the timing? What does it replace or is it just an add on to allow adjustments? I guess I

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if you didn't get the jet kit with the pipes,move your neddle clip to the fourth posistion down,put in 280 mains and your air screws at 2 turns out.if you have toomey needles put them on the 3rd clip.befor i did my motor work this is how i set up my carbs for sea level oh ya remove the lid on the air box :evil:

Edited by DIABLO BANSHEE
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I talked to Toomey today and found this on their web site. Very interesting......

 

"On the Banshee the most out-of-phase area is right before it synchronizes with the pipe.... so 4000 to 5000 rpm, then at 6000 it starts harmonizing it's pumping action and you feel the pull in the handlebars!

 

What is happening actually is that this wave is being reflected back and forth inside the intake tube (tract) regardless of the fact that the air is only moving in one direction, the wave, which has little if any mass, can travel in both directions and does... Each time it does, it passes the needle jet and when it does, it pulls fuel. When this happens there might be a piston stroke with several helpings of fuel instead of just one, therefore it is rich.

 

The intake tract is too short, and this is one reason why it is a bad idea to put the little K&N filters on the back of each carb, effectively shortening the intake tract even more.

 

Because this is an RPM specific phenomena, it cannot be "jetted out" because conditions change in response to RPM, not throttle position. If it was at a particular throttle setting, then we could easily say, that at this setting, certain circuits are active and make adjustments accordingly, but it is not. Raise the rpm a little and it goes away. This is one of the reasons Yamaha chose to put the "cross-over" tube between the intake manifolds. This makes one intake tube think it is larger than it really is (as far as sound propagation goes) therefore lowering the frequency of the sound wave, dampening the effects. You can try this experiment yourself, just remove the crossover tube and be sure to plug up the holes in the intake manifolds from which the tube came, then ride it. You will see the difference!"

 

Reference:

Toomey Racing USA Retrieved August 24, 2005, from:

http://www.toomey.com/

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With the lightened flywheel and degree plate, you will hardly notice this dead area...period.

 

Stuar Toomey knows his stuff...and he's a helluva good guy to talk to and deal with.

 

However...I would not take his word as 100% bible.

 

His jet kit comes with 270 and 280 mains, and with Toomey pipes is said to be the perfect jetting for my setup including NO airbox.

 

Without an airbox, and using either K&N pod filters OR his 2 into 1 foam filter setup...these main jets are still too lean.

 

The instructions in the jet kit say they are the correct jets...undoubtedley...so...take that with a grain of salt.

 

You can remove the flywheel one of two ways. Buy the correct puller from Ebay for about 10 bucks...get an air gun, and take it off. Or...the stealership. If you're going to have the Stealership take it off, you might as well have them install the plate and put the flywheel back on.

 

You can adjust the plate with a 10mm open end wrench even with the flywheel on. The instructions shipped with the plate clearly tell you how to set the timing. Honestly...it's very very easy, nothing to get worried about.

 

Good luck...

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I'm going to have to agree with taking the Toomey guidelines with a grain of salt. Don't get me wrong I have been extremely happy with my T5's, for the couple months I have owned them. However, I am still working on getting the jetting right. I bought the T5's with the 2:1 Foam filter setup... 280's are supposed to ideal, but I am on 300's right now, and I just did a plug check, pretty ghosty (2000' elevation, approx 75 deg. at time of check). I am going to agree that you will probably end up in the 300 to 310 range with no snorkel, but the best advice is to jet it, run it, check it, and repeat as necessary. Every bike is different, and just because one thing works for someone else, doesn't mean it will for you. I haven't done the timing plate on my bike yet (soon to come), but from what I've heard you should definitely check the jetting after that as well.

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Once you remove the airbox...you don't even have to remove the carbs anymore. Just loosen the intake clamp...and twist....

 

Yeah, since I got mine in February from a bud, I've had my carbs off at least 10 times to clean, jet, rejet...I kept buying more stuff. Like an addiction...

 

I'm happy now. Waiting to get some time to go with a friend to get it on a dyno. Dyno tuned is the only 100% accurate way to jet your bike...but, I know I'm darn close if not dialed in....

 

Best of luck!!

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Ok...so what Mains did you end up with?

 

And...wait till you do the flywheel and timing plate.  You THINK you like it now...wait till you get them on!!

 

:headbang:

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Sweet! I stuck with the 280s, but I think I could move up to 300. I ran out of time to give it a try. I can't wait to get the flywheel on. Oh and I repacked the Toomeys, they sound even better! :drool:

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