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First mods for Banshee?


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Best pipe for 5000-9000 RPM Horse Power  

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Hi I am considering picking up a used Banshee in the summer and plan on modding it the problem is I tried to think of what mods I would like to add and ended up with around 2500 dollars worth of stuff what is really good on this list and what can you guys suggest I get first after I get skids all around, nerfs and handguards.

 

This is what I came up with if you have any experience with any of the mods on the list please post your thoughts on them. Or if there is anything you think I should add. (I dont want a engine kit)

 

Pro Design Pro Flow kit w/ foam filter

DG Baja Chassis Skid Plate

DG Baja SwingArm SkidPlate

DG Alloy Nerf Bars

DG Baja A-Arm Guards

Maier Hand Guards

Water Wetter

Toomey Racing Radiator

Pro Design Cool Head

Pro Design Mega-Flow Impeller

Pro Design Super Cooler

Pro Design Reed Spacer

Holeshot XCR's Mounted on Hiper wheels

Boysen Reed Valve

????? What pipe?

Works shocks front (I know there are better brands but I will not pay that much for Elkas or Ohlins)

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In my book the first mods is always FIX THE JUNK AIR FILTER SET-UP. I cant stress this enough, the factory design is horrible, lets way too much junk into the motor. Either run a bead of silicone around your stock plastic piece and bolt it to the airbox, ar install a different set-up. K&N clamp ons work well, so do the 2:1 set-up's, it all depends on the riding you will do.

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Everything you have, but I don't think you need a racing radiator, rear shock, unless you have the money. You can put water wetter in the coolant which will help the overheating, and the rear shock is a good shock. The fronts suck though. Sounds to me that your doing a lot of woods riding. If so, then choose a bottom end or midrange pipe. Top end pipes are hard on clutches through the woods and don't pull out of the hole as well. I'd also get reed petals or v-force, timing degree key or timing plate. I'd also get the blaster foot pegs (which will move the pegs back 2") Shorten the shifter and brake lever to compensate for the pegs. Get a -2" swingarm or cut the stock. This will help for traction and help corner better. Especially in combo w/ the foot pegs.

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Your right I am doing mostly Woods driving but also drive on the street or gravel roads. COuld I get a -1" Swingarm who much difference would this make I dont wanna flip over backwards when I come on to it I only weigh 145.

From what I have seen the T5 was a good bottom and mid pipe as well as being awesome top.

Here are the Dynos from Dirt Wheels on a stock Banshee

Other than the Toomey T5 the Duncan is my second choice anyone got some dynos of other pipes that would be better than the Duncan or the Toomey?

Bill's VS Stock

fcc450a2.jpg

CT MX national with Oval Silencer VS stock

fcc450a3.jpg

FMF TK Plus with Power Core silencer VS Stock

fcc450a5.jpg

LRD with Down turned Silencer VS STock

fcc450a6.jpg

DG Xtreme Oval Type II silencer VS stock

fcc450a7.jpg

Duncan Mid range with Fat Boy silencer VS stock

fcc450a8.jpg

Trinity Torque with Oval silencer

fcc450a9.jpg

Toomey T5 with Round silencer

fcc450ab.jpg

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Those dyno charts only show you hp. When your woods riding you need max torque, not hp. When I do my dyno runs, I look at the torque more than the hp. Torque is what will accelerate or pull you out of the corners. I'd take my PT mids over any high rev pipe riding in the woods. A lot of pipe companies say this and that, but it all comes down to what works for YOU. I like the FMF sst's, PT mids, FMF gnarly, for woods, trail, and sand pits. I've tried several pipes. Talk to people w/ your type of riding whose tried different pipes from low end pipes to high revs. Not too many people buy different pipes. They just buy some and think they are the best because they go great in a straight line, which is great if thats what you do. My .02

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Those dyno charts only show you hp. When your woods riding you need max torque, not hp. When I do my dyno runs, I look at the torque more than the hp. Torque is what will accelerate or pull you out of the corners. I'd take my PT mids over any high rev pipe riding in the woods. A lot of pipe companies say this and that, but it all comes down to what works for YOU. I like the FMF sst's, PT mids, FMF gnarly,  for woods, trail, and sand pits. I've tried several pipes. Talk to people w/ your type of riding  whose tried different pipes from low end pipes to high revs. Not too many people buy different pipes. They just buy some and think they are the best because they go great in a straight line, which is great if thats what you do. My .02

 

I am looking for a pipe like this the blue line is my idea of a ideal pipe.

 

fcc44533.jpg

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From 5000 to 8500 RPM by the chrts it looks like the Duncan(Paul Turner) beats the Toomey.. thats the way it looks to me anyways.

Come on guys I need more votes right now I am leaning towards the Paul Turner's mids myself 2nd favourite is the 916 the only thing is that I think the DMC's Dyno is BS on their website they say the Alien and the 916 have the exact same HP and torque the dyno charts for HP and Torque for the 2 pipes are identical! :roll:

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If you want a pipe to produce from 5000 and up then put a 420 LR w/ the PT mids. You will have a torque monster from hell. I once read that a bell shaped curve is the best curve for hp. It was in one of the Dirt Wheels articles on the Pikes Peak challenge. They dynoed all the atv's that were racing. PT and two other companies are the only ones to have a perfect curve. That was w/ PT's 403cc stoker to.

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It depends on the terrain. Most of my riding is between 2nd and 4th gear. The low end pipes will pull better off the line then high revs. If you do a lot of cornering or stop and go, then low end or midrange pipes will outperform top end pipes. Don't get me wrong, you can run high revs in the trails and tight areas, I did it for years. I just find the PTR's a lot more clutch friendly, less tire spin, and less fatigue in tight trails and sand pits. The instant powerband at the touch of the throttle is priceless. Especially jumping on vertical hills to get to the top. I'd rather be a little slower in 6th gear, then to lose the instant throttle and hard pull up a 75', 80 degree hill all rutted out, w/ a jump 15' from the top. :twisted: :twisted:

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