MonoxideChild420 Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 ok,ive had my banshee for a while and i cant get the carbs straightend out sometimes i get it right and its right on but i dont know what im doing i just keep turning the nobs on top of the carbs and after about an hour ill get it running good. and then about two weeks later it starts acting up again, i need somone to tell me what is what, like what does the nob on the left do and what does the nob on the right do, and how many turns do i turn it to equal it out ,this really sux, i dont know what i did but it really want to shut off when its running, i have to keep giving it gas so it dosent shut off,it has a set of t5's and a k&n w/out the lid could someone explain to me what i did or how i can fix it im not really familiar with the carbs so thats why i turned both of the nobs on the carbs and messed it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 You still have the TORS on those carbs from the sounds of it. Do a search here for "TORS REMOVAL" and you should have your answers. The kit is cheap and easy to install, and gets all that crap out of the way. You disconnect a few wires, put new carb caps on, drill and tap each carb for an idle ajustment screw...and you're set. It sounds like a big deal...I assure you, it's not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 i have been messing with it a lil bit today and i actually got it going ok i messed with the little brass screws at the bottom of the carb, i messed with both of them, and then i started messing with those dials on top to, it seems to bog a lil like at 1/4 throttle and its idling atleast, isnt there some way to do it without the kit like unplug the box? , well i g uess i should read your link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 ok i noticed that the wires for my TORS have been clipped where they plug to the carbs, or the valve housing . whatever it is, anyways could someone please tell me what the little brass screws are, and how many turns out from being turned all the way in should i turn them. for instance how many turns out should i go for the brass screw on the carb that has the choke, and how many turns out should i go on the right carb. and how many turns out should i go on the top screw on the left carb and how many turns out should i go on the right side top screw.....please help me if anyone can. im sorry for writing a book but its the only way to be clear.. remember i have a k&n filter no airbox lid, and some t5"s...its about 86*f outside. and im no shure about my sealevel, i live in NE Florida...? please freaking help me im tired of this crap and i just want to ride the banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 ok i noticed that the wires for my TORS have been clipped where they plug to the carbs, or the valve housing . whatever it is, anyways could someone please tell me what the little brass screws are, and how many turns out from being turned all the way in should i turn them. for instance how many turns out should i go for the brass screw on the carb that has the choke, and how many turns out should i go on the right carb. and how many turns out should i go on the top screw on the left carb and how many turns out should i go on the right side top screw.....please help me if anyone can. im sorry for writing a book but its the only way to be clear.. remember i have a k&n filter no airbox lid, and some t5"s...its about 86*f outside. and im no shure about my sealevel, i live in NE Florida...? please freaking help me im tired of this crap and i just want to ride the banshee 396536[/snapback] ok, tors is basically deactivated then on your bike. here is a pic to show the two adjustment screws that you will have if you do the tors removal. the other (air screw) you have already. Air screw should be about 1- 1.5 turns out from fully seated in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 (edited) ok, so. then what are those nobs on the top for..u know like the ones under the seat..? i know its part of tors... but how come it still works-the nobs that is....like if i mess with those nobs on top it makes the bike run different. so do i still use those nobs in conjunction with the two screws in the pic... also thankyou verry much and nice pic by tha way.. well lmk...also if possible could you please tell me how to set those brass screws. i got the 1- 1\2 part but how bout the other one... please help also i forgot to mention i have a white brothers racing boost bottle instead of the stock thing Edited July 25, 2005 by MonoxideChild420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok, so. then what are those nobs on the top for..u know like the ones under the seat..? i know its part of tors... but how come it still works-the nobs that is....like if i mess with those nobs on top it makes the bike run different. so do i still use those nobs in conjunction with the two screws in the pic... also thankyou verry much and nice pic by tha way.. well lmk...also if possible could you please tell me how to set those brass screws. i got the 1- 1\2 part but how bout the other one... please helpalso i forgot to mention i have a white brothers racing boost bottle instead of the stock thing 396626[/snapback] I think the tors have a knob that changes the slide height (like the top nut in my pic) you may have to pull your airbox off to see if that is infact what it is adjusting. if it is adjusting the slide, then that would cause your problems. Just get a TORS remval kit and be done with. You will need to be able to view the slides inorder to Synch your carbs anyway, so just remove your airbox and check it out. atleast if you know your carbs are in synch, we can go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok great, so all i need to do is remove the k&n and look inside the intake,.. should this be fairly easy,i mean messing with the slides. to sync tha carbs.. like how would correcting the slides sync my carbs, do the slides affect the idling.. and where do my slides need to be, and after i get the slides lined up how would i sync my carbs. i never got how many turns i need to turn on the idle screw, but i know you said to go about 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw..., should i turn the slide screws all the way in before i look into the intake and work my way out from there while looking for it. and what does a slide look like....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok great, so all i need to do is remove the k&n and look inside the intake,..should this be fairly easy,i mean messing with the slides. to sync tha carbs.. like how would correcting the slides sync my carbs, do the slides affect the idling.. and where do my slides need to be, and after i get the slides lined up how would i sync my carbs. i never got how many turns i need to turn on the idle screw, but i know you said to go about 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw..., should i turn the slide screws all the way in before i look into the intake and work my way out from there while looking for it. and what does a slide look like....? 396688[/snapback] Ok, the whole reason you synch the carbs is so that the carb slide in each carb rises and falls at the same rate. So when you are looking at the slides (both at the same time) and you hit the throttle just enough to get one carb slide to rise up, the other should be doing the EXACT same thing. If they are NOT doing the same thing you will need to adjust whatever it is that you were adjusting on top of the TORS and see if it brings them into synch. I dont know for sure if you can do this with the intake still intact. As far as the Air Screw, turn it all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns. Same on both carbs. Do your carbs have the Idle screws?????? ( the ones in my pics that have the lock nut on them?) if they do, then it just makes it a little harder to get your throttle cables and carbs synched. As far as the slides go, if they are raised up too high it will keep your banshee from idling properly, make sure they are completely seated down in the carb, they should be resting on your idle screws if you have them. hope this helps a bit. Just make sure you count the turn on everything and do the same to the other carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 (edited) ok ,thanx alot brother, and if im not mistaken i dont think mine has the idle screw but it does have an air screw, could it have possibly fallen out??? because i looked up in the hole where there should have been a lockscrew like yours and it dosent even look like a hole is even in there, like up inside where you would think a screw goes .but there is a hole to look in but it just looks like it dosent actually function, and for some odd reason the carb on the right side has an idle screw and the normal air screw. or maybe it just looks like and idle screw because it has a flathead fitting on it lilke the air screw.. Edited July 25, 2005 by MonoxideChild420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok ,thanx alot brother, and if im not mistaken i dont think mine has the idle screw but it does have an air screw, could it have possibly fallen out??? 396725[/snapback] Ok, if you dont have the idle screw the knobs on top of the tors are what control your idle.... you must (MUST) do a carb synch first, then turn those knobs at the same intervals to obtain a steady idle....(IE. if you turn the right one up a half turn, do the same for the other) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok, well, tomorrow is only 6hrs away so.. i just want to say you kick a$$, thank you so f****** much, ill let ya know tomorrow. but thanks for all the help, im glad to see that there actually is a bad ass site such as the HQ to help losers like me. mad props .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok, well, tomorrow is only 6hrs away so.. i just want to say you kick a$$, thank you so f****** much, ill let ya know tomorrow. but thanks for all the help, im glad to see that there actually is a bad ass site such as the HQ to help losers like me. mad props .. 396747[/snapback] no problem, you will get it figured out......! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoxideChild420 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 (edited) also i have another newb. question for ya. ok i have the dg alloys nerf bars and just picture your self on my bike in a standing mode.. ok .. now. when im standing up on it if i lean to the right or left, its like the whole bike shifts to the side i lean to and i was wondering why, because my boy's shee is stiff like and it dosent do it on his. could that be my swingarm bearing possibly...and on another note when i roll my quad while its off . say i roll it backwards it make a poping noise like if the sprocket is bent or my axle maybe,, hopefully u can tell me why my bike leans to what ever side i lean to, im thinking its the swing arm bearings or maybe its the axle bearings like inside the housing..? just my guess... any suggestions Edited July 25, 2005 by MonoxideChild420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I've got a suggestion... Get it running first by following Tallon's suggestion. He has more patience than I in this thread. He gave you a 100% perfect picture. Looks like you still have the TORS adjusters still on there. If you plan on keeping this quad, get rid of the TORS...they are junk and get in the way. As for your second question....what does DG nerfs have to do with standing on the bike and leaning to one side or the other....unless you're standing on the nerf and it's dragging in the ground. I'd check the easy things first. Like...Tire pressure. Believe it or not....one pound less in one tire can cause this. Prop the ass end off the ground and check for play. Your best bet right now is to Run, don't walk, to the store and get a Clymers manual for your bike. All the specs and how to check them are right in there!! Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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