sycoracer911 Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 as i am showing in htese diagrams .... is the plans i would have in doing them.... i would be mig welding and grinding the welds to make htem look nice... now i know it will be a little bit heavy but let me know if you think it is strong and would lok good http://photobucket.com/albums/y19/sycorace...%20arm%20plans/ there is a link ot the pics.... the first step is acutally the 3rd picture and the second is hte second pic and the 3rd step is the first pic... please check them out and let meknow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinger Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 as i am showing in htese diagrams .... is the plans i would have in doing them.... i would be mig welding and grinding the welds to make htem look nice... now i know it will be a little bit heavy but let me know if you think it is strong and would lok good http://photobucket.com/albums/y19/sycorace...%20arm%20plans/ there is a link ot the pics.... the first step is acutally the 3rd picture and the second is hte second pic and the 3rd step is the first pic... please check them out and let meknow 394545[/snapback] I can't read what's on the pics...too small... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 i wouldnt even ride a banshee with modified stock arms down the road..my ass is too valuable to me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 youve got the right idea, but your geometry if you follow this plan will be thoroughly fucked. the arm is in fact triangulated to the ball joint. so to lengthen the hypotenuse (the forward side) as well adjacent side (rear, outward facing member) without adjusting the angle where the two sides meet the pivot shaft will only make the two came together at the same exact spot. now to accurately lengthen the arm's effective length the angles at the pivot will have to be determined to compensate for the extra distance. if you had the blueprint, or even better a CAD drawing, of the arm it would be simple geometric equations. but since you don't, or i don't think you do, the easiest way would be to reconfigure those two members entirely. but at that point why not upgrade to a replaceable ball joint like are in most aftermarket arms, since it is only the act of welding in a threaded bung, then screwing the joint in. that brings us to the next weak point, the pivot tube(s). since everything else has already been replaced, why not these? and since youre in there, use heim joints instead of bushings for ease of construction, plus the added benefit or adjustable caster. so, after youve done even half of that, you might as well replace the whole thing. plus welding to yamaha factory steel is scary, like using butter to solder, just not strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decon Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=34382&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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