RIPPEN Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Iam wanting to rebuild my engine this winter but I know there are some special tools needed to do the job "right" or more easily. So Iam trying to figure out what all I may need and how much some of these "special" tools may cost. Any help would be great. Thanks RIPPEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Flywheel puller is always handy, approx 12$ , a good torqe wrench (a MUST!) 60-100$,piston ring compresser 15$, metric allen keys 15$, silicone, oil, anti-seize,& loc-tite 20$. Other than that lots of light, tunes and beer!, oh ya a service manual helps. I don't suggest doing your own honing, its not expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superchicken Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 (edited) flywheel holder,you can make.a flat bar with two bolts running through it.and maybe a clutch holding tool.both of these would make life easier but nut nessecary if you have an impact gun.and clean rags.when assembling cleanliness is key,i can stress that enough.oh one last thing a nice little set of pics,you know like an ice pick but stanley sells them cheep and have a nice curve on them to get the c-clips in and out of the pistons.and a manual,its esential Edited July 17, 2005 by superchicken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 If you don't have an impact you will need a tool to hold the clutch and flywheel to remove and properly re-torque them. Even with an impact you don't know the torque when re-installing. As superchicken said, the bar with two botls in it spaced apart the same distance as the little holes in the flywheel makes a great flywheel holding tool. Make sure not to pust the bolt to far in because you may damage the stator. For the clutch you can can bolt an old steel and fiber together and put a wrag in between the gear of the clutch basket and crank. The fiber has teeth that hold the basket and the steel will hold the inner hub. Together they keep the unit together for removal and installation. I like to use two of each so the don't warp and slip out when tightening. A soft wire brush is nice for cleaning the gasket surface without nicking them like a razor blade. Make sure to grease the inner lip of all the new seals if you're rebuilding the bottom end too. If you're just redoing the top end it's a piece of cake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 flywheel holder,you can make.a flat bar with two bolts running through it.and maybe a clutch holding tool.both of these would make life easier but nut nessecary if you have an impact gun.and clean rags.when assembling cleanliness is key,i can stress that enough.oh one last thing a nice little set of pics,you know like an ice pick but stanley sells them cheep and have a nice curve on them to get the c-clips in and out of the pistons.and a manual,its esential 393669[/snapback] Awww yes picks!! genius! the little tools sent from the Banshee gods themselves!, just keep your hand over the clips or they'll do the dissapearing act Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superchicken Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 and put a rag over crank just incase they wanna do a dissapearing act in your bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 a good set of picks are worth their weight in gold. when removing circlips heres the one i use most often: its got two 45* angles in a complex fashion that are perfect for those things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80overShee Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 A ring compressor is not necessary. 2-stroke rings can easily be compressed by hand and slid into jugs. DO NOT USE SILICONE! I dont know how many times I have seen it. Compressed silicone seeps out of seams and will become lose particles inside your engine. A little bit isnt a big deal but one good gob can cause all sorts of problems. Use "triple bond" or "yama bond" to seal your cases. It hardens moreso than silicone but still flexes enough to compensate for heat expansion. I have split the cases on mine 4 times now and have yet to even open any type of silicone adhesive. I have even used "tripe bond" in place of a waterpump gasket temporarily and it worked for quite a long time (dealer part, had to wait days for it to come in) A wire brush can work ok for cleaning up gasket surfaces but Scotch-brite works the best. Fold it over a couple times and use straight light strokes, not concentric circles. An "exact-O" knife equipped with a straight edge blade like a razor (sharp edge at the end like a floor scraper) works excellent for cleaning gasket surfaces as well. A good torque wrench is an absolute must but remember, it doesnt do you any good if you don't know your specs......GET A MANUAL! For 3 of those pesky jug bolts, you may want a torque extender wrench (cant remember exact name). It is basically a boxed end wrench with a square slot for accepting the 3/8" drive end of your torque wrench. Many people just kind of "feel" there way on those bolts but if you are doing it right, the extension is the way to go. Remember though, you are extending your torque application, you have to adjust the setting on the wrench to compensate. Brake cleaner, and lots of it. Do not use carb cleaner. Many people do this without realizing that carb cleaner actually leaves a residue. Brake cleaner doesn't. Test it - spray carb cleaner on something like a piece of paper and brake cleaner also, notice they dry differently. This is a main cause of people having case leaks. Bonding agents (triple bond) do not stick to residue or oil. Make sure everything is spotless........then clean it again! Assembly lube - basically motor oil. Use it where ever a part will be moving that will not be submerged in oil immediately. Such as rod bearings, crank bearings, piston rings, LOTS on clutch fibers. It will smoke a bit when you start it the first time and for a few minutes but it is much better for you engine during those first few kicks than dependnig on your premix to do the job (it wont) The two most important things you can do, by far. Take your time and make sure its spotless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkabina Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Vise-grips and a BFH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80overShee Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Vise-grips and a BFH. 394694[/snapback] WORD Thats for when things get shitty......either walk away or smash it with a hammer! I've done both, let me tell you, the method with the most gratification is also the one that costs the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPEN Posted July 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Thanks for all the info. I hope it stays together for the rest of the season but this winter its time to freshin it up anyway . Thanks RIPPEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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