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Bunch of questions...Lightened flywheel, no cross-


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OK guys here goes...

I just got the Bansheeworx lightened flywheel with the slots in it. I have to say this thing gives immediate power delivery especially when you're close to the sweet spot in the power band. WOW. I also had a timing advance plate laying around that I installed but I only advanced it about 1/2 as much as it could go. Meaning if it could be advanced 3/8" I advanced it about 3/16" The thing I'm not sure about is the low end. I had recently had the carbs off for cleaning and noticed the cross over tube was getting worn by the hoses and stuff that come across the top of it. So I took it off and plugged the holes with some 5/8" steel rod. I've heard that eliminating the crossover tube will give slightly more top end but I don't remember any comments on low to mid. I ride alot of really rough trails which are broken up by long straight stretches along the RR tracks so I get my share of wide open and crawling. Since the flywheel swap/ timing advance/ crossover tube elimination, it seems that I've lost some bottom and gained furious power band mid but I also notice some bogging at wide open when shifting from lets say 5 to 6th gear.

I have no idea what jets I have in there and frankly I'm scared of messing with the jetting.

So my question is... is this a crossover tube problem, a flywheel problem, a timing advance problem {BTW how much advance do you think I have???}, a "I don't know how to ride" problem, a jetting problem or a combination of some or all of the above.

I really want to convert to a 2:1 intake but I don't want the Trinity since it is actually too small for a 35MM carb. I'm designing one of my own but who knows how long it will take to get that put together :wacko:

Engine mods... Toomey 2:1 filter, Trinity Pipes, Lightened flywheel. {I was told by the guy I bought from that it had Boyeson reeds and 28MM bored carbs but I just found out he lied :angry: }

So any help is appreciated.

Edited by Holyman
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On the timing question, did you happen to notice if your timing plate had little "hash marks" on it? If you look at the pic below, on the right side of the timing plate there are numbers from -10 to +10. Those indicate how many degrees you have advanced or retarded your timing.

RS200BTw.jpg

 

Does your timing plate have those markings? That will tell you where you're at for sure. :cheers:

 

The only thing I've heard about eliminating your crossover tube is that it makes jetting a little tougher. By removing the crossover tube you basically take out the "equalization" between the carbs. I wouldn't imagine you taking out the tube would cause any of the issues you're seeing....

 

First thing I would check is your timing plate, and as long as you're not over +4 you should be OK. If that is the case, then I would head towards dropping your main jets by one size and see if that corrects your top end bog. And of course, be sure to check your plugs after changing jets to make sure you're not too lean. :)

 

Do you have the compression raised at all? (Cool head, shaved head, etc.)

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The timing plate looks exactly like stock but cast with longer holes so there was no indicators that I could find that tell how much I advanced it.

There are no compression mods to the stock head. I do have a Noss head that I've never installed {as if that makes a difference :rolleyes: }

Like I said I'd love to just go with a single carb. Maybe I'll just put the tube back in and see what happens. As little as I ride, I'm really surprised at how worn the cross over tube is. I wonder how many engines blow a year just because of the stupid tube getting a hole in it :shrugani:

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i would find a good cross over tube or boost bottle and put it back in there.thats the only thing you meassed with that would effect the fuel mixture.like said above its there to equalize the carbs.next thought is your new flywheel.it weighs alot less than the stocker, the lighter you go the less rotation wieght,and there for less tourqe.ya know what i mean.it will snap on the gas,but as you put a load on it,like running wide open in 5-6 gear it doesnt have the weight to keep it going.especialy between shifts.kinda like this.you have a que ball and a whiffle ball.put them both on a ramp and let them go.now stop both of them at the same time.the que ball is going to be alot harder to stop than the whiffle ball.because of the wieght.your problem may be as simple as a tired engine,or just not enough compression wanting to keep that light flywheel going.jeesh that was long

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I agree with putting the crossover tube back in and see if that fixes it. I've had some bad issues recently with not having the two sides equalized and it caused me much unneeded stress.

 

As rebel said, 1mm = 1 degree. So 3/16 would be roughly 5 degrees. That should be fine, I ran mine at +7.

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i also read all the" fabulous" benfits of plugging my crossover too and the bike immedialty acted just as yo u described,it doesnt idle well and is lazy, erratic ,and choppy at times on power delivery, its the crossover tube causing all your greif for sure... you need this on a banshee :cheers:

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I see your confusion.

 

Timing advaced will take away from the top end. Retard the timing and gain pwr up top.

 

A heavier flywheel may pull you through from 5th to 6th but when you hit the gas the lightened flywheel would have an advantage of reving faster. I'd rule that out so far.

 

The crossover tube is "suppose" to be there only to equalize the fuel delivery at I believe 5000 to 6000 rpms. If your rpms are higher than that then I'm not convinced that's your problem either.

 

First thing I'd do is put the timing back to stock and see how it feels. Now, you may be able to get your top end back by jetting. Since it's been so hot out that could be your whole problem to begin with. Was it cooler when you rode before. You may be rich on top.

 

It is about 1mm per degree on the plate. 4.5mm is 4 deg of advance.

 

Good Luck !!!!

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so crossover tubes are trail frendly???

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In my experience, not just trail friendly but trail necessary. I'm sure I still have some jetting fine tuning to do but I had no problem at all pulling 6th wide open after installing the tube when before it would lag for en extended period before gradually climbing. All in all I'd say timing plate and lightened flywheel are good affordable mods without tearing into the guts of the engine.

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