dbkid13 Posted July 8, 2005 Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 When I shift from neutral to 1st my banshee clanks really loud and sometimes stalls. Now the bike is all stock and I was wondering if I need a new clutch. When I get it going the clutch works fine and even under a heavy load will not slip and to my understanding if a clutch is bad it starts to slip. I have read some old forms and to my understanding there are two adjustments for the clutch one on the lever and the other near the clutch. I have tried tightning up the lever adjustment and this just made the clutch engage later so I tried losening which just made it engage sooner. I was wondering if I need a new clutch or if I should try the other adujustment. Also if its the other adjusment how do I go about fixing it. Thanks. ---------Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batoutofshell Posted July 8, 2005 Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 mine does the same thing but I just let it warm up alittle more and she is fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbkid13 Posted July 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 Yeah mine gets better when it warms up also, however it seems to be getting worse so I dont know what to think. -------Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 8, 2005 Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 The cable attaches to the clutch push lever on the top of the case. There's a pointer on the end of it. ... If you push that towards the cable with your finger, it should go tight when it lines up with another arrow that's cast into the top case. If they don't line up, then you need to make an adjustment inside the clutch cover. Rare. * Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy301 Posted July 8, 2005 Report Share Posted July 8, 2005 Are you saying that this only happens when its cold? If thats the case then, its possible that your clutch basket is wearing. I believe when the quad sits and the oil drains off the plates.So when you start a cold motor and pull the clutch in the plates stick together in the grooves so no oil can get inbetween them. I could be wrong but, I have spent many hours adjusting my clutch and I have the same problem and I know my basket is worn with the grooves. Time for aftermarket!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbkid13 Posted July 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 When the bike is sititng there the two arrows are lined up just like your picture, when I go to push it there is already tension on it, theres no slack in between when I push and when i feel pressure, is this bad?? should I lossen up my cablle a little. Thanks. ----Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdawg82 Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Any where before the point where the two arrows meet there should be no resistance. Anywhere after that point there should be resistance as the clutch disengages. A clunking when the bike is cold is normal. If it does it when the bike is warm you should worry. As long as you can hold the clutch in when the bike is in gear and it doesnt stall your clutch should be alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXtreme- Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Wow...that explains alot now! My arrows are beyond the line-up spot. Now I see why I don't have enough throw on the perch. It graps good and doesn't slip, but it needs fixed badly. Can you guys chime in on the procedures to make this adjustment for me please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdawg82 Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Taken directly from toomey.com: "Please start by screwing in the cable adjuster on the handlebar clutch lever all the way so there is the maximum slop in the cable. Next, loosen the lock-nut for the adjusting screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Now, as you look down at the top of the engine, you must find the clutch actuating arm, under the left carb. (Where the clutch cable attaches) You will notice there is a little pointer at the end of this arm. Also, there is a mark cast into the top engine case. These are the alignment marks, and you line them up by turning the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch pressure plate with a Phillips screwdriver, while at the same time lightly pushing the arm with your fingers counter clockwise until a slight resistance is felt. This takes up all the slack in the push-rod system. When you have the marks lined up properly, tighten the adjuster lock-nut securely (0.9 kgm or 5.8 ft lbs.). Now, adjust the cable free play at the lever so that there is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever, and secure the adjuster with the lock ring. Pull the clutch lever a few times to insure everything works right and check the alignment marks once more just to be sure. Now, before you re-install the cover, check the condition of the water-pump drive gear (and oil pump gear, on the RZ. There is no oil pump on the Banshee,- it's pre-mix). You are checking for cracks or broken teeth, and insuring that the circlip that retains the plastic gears is still on the shaft. If you have any doubts regarding the condition of any of these parts, replace them. The only way you will find out they have failed, is when your engine suddenly seizes due to no coolant flow (over heating) or no oil flow on the RZ. Now, re-install the clutch cover with a new gasket, and a little grease on the coolant pipe o-ring, and kick shaft. Just before the cover goes on all the way, be sure to mesh the water pump gears with the gears on the end of the crank by just wiggling the cover up and down, or if need be, turning the engine over a little with the kick-starter lever. Do not force anything. Properly aligned parts assemble smoothly. Next, start all of the case screws a couple of turns, all the while insuring the gasket is in place, then tighten the two longer ones that go through the dowel pins first, then the rest in a crisscross pattern until snug. Then, torque to 1.0 kgm (7.2 ft.lbs.) evenly. Now you can put on the Kick-starter lever." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXtreme- Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 jdawg, thank you for the reply....I tore into it today and got it all fixed up. Now it works like it should great post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted July 14, 2005 Report Share Posted July 14, 2005 A big reason the banshee clutch "drags" when cold is the oil. The oil does drip out from between the plates and is thick until it's warmed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twyztid Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 (edited) I just bought my first Banshee a month ago and I may have to adjust my clutch inside the case as well. It seems to want to grab when the hand lever is more than 1/2 way released. I tried the adjuster by the hand lever both directions but it didn't really help in either direction. If I adjusted it out too far it would make pulling the hand lever VERY stiff. From what I read here, I believe I understand the process. My question is that should the lever in the photo be real hard to push? I still have the hand lever and cable attached but it would seem to me that if I just pushed on the lever by the case those the cable being attached shouldn't make a difference. The lever down by the case is very difficult to push in and I am not sure I will even be able to push it all the way with just my fingers. I don't feel any real resistance other than spring tension, though. When I bought it I was told the clutch was recently replaced but I don't know what brand it is. Is this the way it is supposed to be? Kevin The cable attaches to the clutch push lever on the top of the case. There's a pointer on the end of it. ... If you push that towards the cable with your finger, it should go tight when it lines up with another arrow that's cast into the top case. If they don't line up, then you need to make an adjustment inside the clutch cover. Rare. * Edited September 25, 2007 by Twyztid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 I just bought my first Banshee a month ago and I may have to adjust my clutch inside the case as well. It seems to want to grab when the hand lever is more than 1/2 way released. I tried the adjuster by the hand lever both directions but it didn't really help in either direction. If I adjusted it out too far it would make pulling the hand lever VERY stiff. From what I read here, I believe I understand the process. My question is that should the lever in the photo be real hard to push? I still have the hand lever and cable attached but it would seem to me that if I just pushed on the lever by the case those the cable being attached shouldn't make a difference. The lever down by the case is very difficult to push in and I am not sure I will even be able to push it all the way with just my fingers. I don't feel any real resistance other than spring tension, though. When I bought it I was told the clutch was recently replaced but I don't know what brand it is. Is this the way it is supposed to be? Kevin See my current pandcake thread it has pics of where to make the adjustment. If you have the stock clutch, that itself could be the problem. The stock clutch lever is a POS. Factory Yamaha clutch for $35 and parking break block off is a great solution. I had alot of play in the stock clutch lever anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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