ssjgoku419 Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 Hello all, well it finally happened , my 03 banshee let go, so it is time for a rebuild. It locked up on me at the track , the left cylinder has bits of alluminum on the spark plug , right side plug looks fine.My guess is that cylinder leaned out too much. my first question is what are some tricks to getting it freed up? and what do u guys recomend i do as far as rebiulding it ? tips? tricks? parts? advice? I am not a novice mechanic i am ASE master certified w/ 10+ years experience. However this is the first banshee ive ever torn apart and want to do it right. Im sure most of you are probably experts on this by now. any help would be GREATLY appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee tuner Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 Once you get those cylinders off you should measure them to make sure the one that seized up does not have any deep gouges before you order 20 over pistons. If you want a cheap rebuild with a small power gain put a set of vito's superstock pistons in. It comes with all the gakets you will need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssjgoku419 Posted July 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 ty for the reply .well i just pulled the head off and it is pretty bad, there is a hole in the piston the size of a dime, chunks of piston all over and im sure some went down into the case. any tips on freeing it up, i dont want to just try and force it and screw somthing else up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stclark816 Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 (edited) Pretty simple task.. If you dont have a Clymers Manual by now, you should go pick one up, especially if this is ur first rebuild and first banshee. First, you should try and find out why it locked up on you so it doesnt happen again. If it was a lean condition, make sure when your rebuild is done you get it tuned in properly. There's really no tricks to a rebuild. Just once you get everything back together, make sure everything is tightened down good. Torque numbers can be found in a clymers manual. I would reccommend buying your wiseco pistons, rings, cir clips, wrist pins, and bearings from www.rockymountainatv.com. Very cheap prices. You can also get your gaskets there. When you take it in to get the bore/hone job, make sure you take your pistons with you. Also, if you have a coolhead, you should prolly order another O-ring kit too. EDIT: I just saw ur reply back.. Make sure you flush everything out that went down into the crank. Edited July 3, 2005 by stclark816 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssjgoku419 Posted July 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 ty for your advice stclark816 ill definatly flush everything when i get it apart imn still trying to get the cylinder offbut the piston is seized .any tips on freeing it up (keep it bolted on and take a peice of wood on the pistonand hit that with a hammer is an idea i was considering) also is that website pretty good, hasnt ripped off anyone thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 Does it seem like the piston's siezed in the cylinder or that a piece of the piston is jammed under the crank? ... It doesn't take much to jam it. Edit: Ah, I see you say it's siezed in the bore. The bit about leaving the cylinder on had me there. ... I would drop some thin oil in around the edge of the piston, have the cylinder base bolts off, and use upward pressure on the cylinder with your hand around it and tap down, hopefully without too much force, with your piece of wood (and hammer if it needs it). Rockymountain is used by a lot of people here and is a well trusted site. Rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssjgoku419 Posted July 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 HOLY CRAP I just gave a little tap to the side of the cylinder and it came right out piston and all , why , cause there is no wrist pin left and nothing for it to connect to on the piston. The cylinder is gone there are half inch deep gouges in it and chunks broken off. The rod is bent and i think the block and crank are scared at least on the upper side. any one ever see them blow like this?does anyone know the cheapest place to buy a full motor or do i have to buy a block and build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 any one ever see them blow like this? Sounds similar to the damage I did about 6 weeks ago. Luckily I wasn't under load, so the barrel could be cleaned up with a fresh bore. ... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...802&hl=just+let Some of the pics there should look close to what you'll have and you'll see how I rebuilt it. BUT I've blown it again last w/e ... added a few mods and didn't jet high enough for what I was doing. (And wrong octane ). You'll get plenty advice on crank options. You just need to decide which way you want to go and how much you want to spend. You'll pick up a cylinder no problem in the 'for sale' section on here, or on ebay. Rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted July 4, 2005 Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 you will probably want to rebuild that crank or get a stroker. every time i had a piston go through my crank it toasted it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssjgoku419 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 I read your post's RARE and it looks like about the same but mines actually blown through the piston. I got about twice that much piston material out of my pipse when i pulled them off. Was your crank seized , mine seems to be, im sure ill have to replace it . HOpfully my block is fine I want to brebuild it to be bulletproof and last a long time but i dont want to spend a arm and leg. I was thinking of the 370 long rod , from what i read it beefs up the durability quiet a bit. thanks for your help ,any advice is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 4, 2005 Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 I read your post's RARE and it looks like about the same but mines actually blown through the piston. I got about twice that much piston material out of my pipse when i pulled them off. Was your crank seized , mine seems to be, im sure ill have to replace it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stclark816 Posted July 5, 2005 Report Share Posted July 5, 2005 The 370 longrod is a 4mm stroker with 5mm longer rods. ... you need to use a 2mm spacer plate for that one or have your head/ domes cut. And you also need the 795 pistons which have the wrist pin set higher in the piston to offset the additional rod length. ... Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. 388590[/snapback] The Longrod and a 4mm stroker are different animals to my understanding. A longrod crank has longer rods then stock. The longrod crank increases reliability by decreasing the rod angle on each bearing. You might gain alittle more torque but nothing like a 4mm stroker. Basically it's for reliablility. A 4mm stroker crank increases the stroke, or how far the piston travels, therefore increasing displacement (cc's) as well as bringing in a bigger volume of intake and breathing out more exhaust. A stroker crank makes a lot more torque and overall power. Ive been reading about the two lately... Now someone correct me if Im wrong, this is just my understanding of the subject at the moment.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted July 6, 2005 Report Share Posted July 6, 2005 The Longrod and a 4mm stroker are different animals to my understanding. A longrod crank has longer rods then stock. The longrod crank increases reliability by decreasing the rod angle on each bearing. You might gain alittle more torque but nothing like a 4mm stroker. Basically it's for reliablility. A 4mm stroker crank increases the stroke, or how far the piston travels, therefore increasing displacement (cc's) as well as bringing in a bigger volume of intake and breathing out more exhaust. A stroker crank makes a lot more torque and overall power. Ive been reading about the two lately... Now someone correct me if Im wrong, this is just my understanding of the subject at the moment.. 389043[/snapback] stock stroke and rod = 54mm and 110 rods, uses regular pistons stock stroke and long rod = 54mm and 115 rods, uses 795 series pistons 4mm and short rod = 58mm and 110 rods, i think uses regular pistons 4mm long rod = 58mm and 115 rods(most common), uses 795 pistons, cut domes longer rod isnt gonna give you anymore power, just reliability. to get more power you need stroke. go with the 4mm long rod crank(4mm and 115 rods) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GYTWYPT Posted July 7, 2005 Report Share Posted July 7, 2005 yeah what the said. If you have the cash the 4mm longrod kit would be a good choice., but if you are lacking in funds. Stock crank would probably be cheaper. Or you could send your bad crank to someone like Tony Dukas and he will make it a longrod and rebuildable and trued and welded. Now i had mine done by him a few years ago and i think it was less than $400 but not real sure. Might be more or less by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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