BansheeBob Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 (edited) I am putting new carbs on the Shee and removing the parking brake crap at the same time. Question is do I just unplug all the TORS and parking brake stuff and leave the empty plugs there. I searched far and wide and couldn't find an answer here hoping someone might be able to help. Anybody ever follow the TORS wiring to it's conclusion and remove everything, or most people just tape off the empty plugs that are left? Anything else I might need a heads up about?? Thanks!! Edited June 13, 2005 by BansheeBob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh88 Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 I have some hideous wiring hanging after the TORS strip. My Bike aint all that showy so I don't care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broke Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Just snip it off where it exits the loom, you'll never even know the rest of the wires are inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 TORS: Cut the wires from the throttle housing and disconnect the electrical connection that is under the tank on the left side of the frame. If you can't find it follow the TORS wiring harness from the carbs and you will find the connection. YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT this connector your shee won't run past idle. I just got done with eliminating the TORS on mine. Motion pro has a kit that has a idle kit and new carb caps and throttle cable. YOu have to completely remove the TORS housing and throttle cable...Throttle response is a hell of a lot better. Parking brake: Clip the wires or remoe the entire thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 If you just clip them off thats about as far as they go, if you take the whole harness apart, you get to remove only a single green wire, the rest just splice in to multiple wire sections. there are also swithches on the thumb throttle and the breake lever, you can take all that crap off to, I simply cut off all the crap on the brake lever and sanded and polish it smooth, same with the e brake cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Ok, I have been reading left and right about the this TORS thing, but have yet to figure out what it is. I know its on the handle bars and leads to inder the left side of the tank. Everyone who talks about it knows what it is and what it is for or not for, but can someone explain it to the rest of us ? Does it help your shee when it is disconnected, or do you have problems with it then disconect it to solve the problem? Thanks for the info........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 I have heard the TORS has been a leading fator in shee bogging down right off idle. Why this is happens is unknown. It is electrical so it will start to go bad the older the bike gets and moisture also affects it. What does the TORS do?? The TORS system has a sensor in the housings on top of both carbs and a sensor in the throttle housing. There is a box on the left side of the frame under the tank. The box is also electrically connected to the ignition. When the box senses that either slide in the carbs does not match the throttle postion the box will send a signal to the ignition and kill the ignition keeping the motor from blowing. For example. Say you are hauling ass and you let off the throttle all the way and the left slide is stuck wide open and the right slide closes. The box will sense the right slide and throttle position match but the left slide is stuck wide open and the engine is still revving. The box will send a signal to the ignition and cut the spark to the spark plugs and kill the engine. I hope this helps. I tried to describe it as simple as I could as to my understaning of the way it works. If any info is wrong or not fully correct please correct. me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboreshee Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 O.K. heres the run down on the throttle override system. Current flows into your tors control box from the cdi unit and it also flows into your engine stop switch. If the current finds a path to ground the cdi will kill the ignition. When the engine stop switch is in the off position the cuurent from the cdi goes to ground thus killing the ignition. With the engine stop switch in the run position the current from the cdi continues into the tors box where it splits off to gate#1 of the thyristor and continues on to be decreased by resistance in the tors box.The current then exits the tors box and goes on to the throttle switch and carb swiitches which keeps the current from going to Gate#3 of the thyristor. If one of your switches are bad the current will flow into gate#3 of the thyristor allowing it to turn on and complete a path to ground thus killing the ignition. ( A thyristor is basically a 3-way switch with current on gate#1,Ground on gate#2, and gate#3 is the switch which will Connect Gate#1 and Gate #2. Yea it could save your ass IF something happened to one of the carbs, but chances are one of the switches will go bad before your slide sticks. It doesn't hurt a thing to unhook it. And if u unhook it you have to get the kit which eliminates the tors caps on the carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybadbanshee Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 O.K. heres the run down on the throttle override system. Current flows into your tors control box from the cdi unit and it also flows into your engine stop switch. If the current finds a path to ground the cdi will kill the ignition. When the engine stop switch is in the off position the cuurent from the cdi goes to ground thus killing the ignition. With the engine stop switch in the run position the current from the cdi continues into the tors box where it splits off to gate#1 of the thyristor and continues on to be decreased by resistance in the tors box.The current then exits the tors box and goes on to the throttle switch and carb swiitches which keeps the current from going to Gate#3 of the thyristor. If one of your switches are bad the current will flow into gate#3 of the thyristor allowing it to turn on and complete a path to ground thus killing the ignition. ( A thyristor is basically a 3-way switch with current on gate#1,Ground on gate#2, and gate#3 is the switch which will Connect Gate#1 and Gate #2. Yea it could save your ass IF something happened to one of the carbs, but chances are one of the switches will go bad before your slide sticks. It doesn't hurt a thing to unhook it. And if u unhook it you have to get the kit which eliminates the tors caps on the carbs 381093[/snapback] ummmm yeah or something like that.BUT, you reall dont NEED to get the tors removal kit if you un hook them but it is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Cool, thanks guys, that clears that up. My shee is an '02 so I shouldn't have problems with it yet, but ya never know. I'll keep this info in the back of my mind just in case my shee ever craps out for no apparent reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh88 Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Your bike will lokk cleaner as well. Those bulky, heavy things are ugly. Less is more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBob Posted June 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Actually I am getting rid of the parking brake crap and the thumb throttle at the same time as removing the carbs and TORS. Do I still need to unplug anything that wasn't unplugged when removing all that stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Actually I am getting rid of the parking brake crap and the thumb throttle at the same time as removing the carbs and TORS. Do I still need to unplug anything that wasn't unplugged when removing all that stuff? 381278[/snapback] Just the little switch on the brake lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBob Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 Just the little switch on the brake lever. 381324[/snapback] Putting a new perch on there so that stuff is already unplugged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05TWIN Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 Just make sure the two wires on the clutch perch never make contact. The machine won't run past an idle. I learned the hard way. Changed my handlebars and put on a LSR blockoff plate and my shee wouldn't run. I cut the wires, and put heat shrink on each wire to seal them, then taped them together and tucked them under the radiator shroud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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