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I'm not sure what happened but I had a lightened flywheel and advanced the timing I believe +4 degrees and my shee is SLOWER! :angry: I don't get it!!! I'm so pist! I have no clue what happened. I'm running filters like 280 main jets and stock pipes...since I have stock pipes should I stay with stock timing???

 

I can normally beat my buddy by a bike length or more and he was killing my ass tonight! If it wasn't for his bike I wouldn't have been able to tell a difference but every race he was killing me. My bike would also bogg off the line bad. I would have to slip the clutch just to get a good launch. I'm running Skat Trak haulers. I couldn't believe it I was so pist! I'm also running 50/50 VP110 and 91 octane...it has probably cycled once through. But I've heard I shoudl've been able to tell a difference even with 91 octane?

 

thanks for any help!

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Well if you have stock pipes and no other mod's done too your bike other then a lightened fly wheel and the timing advanced then you should not be running a advance timing you should leave it stock, i'm gonna advance my timing + 4 but i have t-5 pipes, no airboxs, filter's, long rod crank, .80 thousand over piston's, high compression head, racing piston's, port and poilshing done, and i have re geared my bike

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280 mains running stock pipes?  That sounds hella rich to me.

375334[/snapback]

 

Exactly what I was thinking...

 

Even if he removed the air box with stock pipes, it should be in the 230 to 240 range.

 

Bogging prolly cause it's way too rich.

 

Take a look at those plugs...slim.

I think the flywheel and +4 timing are after pipes.

Any shee rider will tell you, opening up the airbox and pipes should be the very first mod.

Stock pipes CHOKE that motor....

 

:cheers:

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Well I took everything apart this morning and it looks like the shop was in a hurry cause what it looks like the timing plate uses the block edge as a reference point and it was -4 degrees! (when I picked the bike up they said they had forgot to do my bike and did it while I was on the way to pick it up!) plus it was they're last day of business for the holiday weekend.

 

I took a look at the adjuster plate and the slots were almost all the way at the end. So I adjusted it to +3 on the timing plate and the set screws are almost in the center of the slots now...

 

the jets are the fist stage of the dyno jet set...the bike was running great. I normally beat most shee's with pipes and filters but last night I was getting spanked and that's what -4 degrees will get you!

 

I'm gonna pull the bike out right now and let it idle for a while and make sure evetyings cool before I put it back together.

 

Thanks for the inputs keep them coming if I'm wrong.

 

<-----haven't gotten pipes cause I've been spending money on my other hobby too! I have a turbo Honda civic and I'm in the middle of a motor build up so all my cash is going to it....but I have to throw some at the shee every chance I can...

 

I'm looking at picking up some CPI inframes! my buddy has them and I love everthying about um'

Edited by Peter S
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-4 could do it.

Still sounds a bit rich, though. I'd still check your plugs. Just think, if you're too rich in the main, it could be faster and pull better yet.

 

I don't believe in the "Stage XX jet Kits"

 

The Toomey jet kit I bought came with 270 and 280 mains. Mine runs awsome and the plugs look great with 330 mains, if that's any comparison for you.

I only bought the kit for the needles...

 

Give Jim @ Passion Racing a call. He has Shearer pipes and silencers in CHROME for 450 new.

 

That's a helluva deal.

Toomey T5, CPI, Shearer and rockets are all great pipes...

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Shit....that's a helluva a deal.

That alone will make a big difference.

 

When you have more money...get some better pipes, unless you fall in love with the Fatty's.

 

I'm telling you...T5's alone made the biggest difference in my shee...

Sure, the other mods made it easier to ride, etc. But, stock pipes blow...big time.

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