fast87 Posted May 29, 2005 Report Posted May 29, 2005 Well my only local bike shop didn't have any more in stock, and they said from 4-7 days to get the correct banshee flywheel puller in...so i busted out our set of jaw type pullers and went to town, i did however remove the nut with an impact with no problems, and in the process of using the damn jaw puller i bent it...i think...my entire engine is apart right now, including crank, stator, etc... so i'll have to wait a couple days before it's back in 1 piece so i can spin it to see if it wobbles at all, i do have auto shop in school and was wondering if i can use our spinning(vertical) tire balancer to check the flywheel?? i'll try it on tuesday and let you all know the results, Thanks for any input and do you think if i measured and marked 4-6 evenly spaced holes and drilled them with a bench press it would be OK?? i don't have the money for a lightened flywheel right now(just spent 400+ on an unexpected rebuild) and trust my metalworking skills..to a degree ~Mark~ Quote
fast87 Posted May 29, 2005 Author Report Posted May 29, 2005 oh yeah i just had another idea...in auto shop we have 2 brake lathes, one for both disk and drums, one strictly for drums, we also have an all-purpose lathe..could i chuck it up in our lathe and take off about 1/8in from the outside next to the square "magnets"?? i can also remove material from the inside of the flywheel also or instead of the outside..Thanks ~Mark~ Quote
race-a-holic Posted May 29, 2005 Report Posted May 29, 2005 I did the same thing when I first tore mine apart.Lesson learned.Always use a puller that screws into the flywheel and doesn't have the jaws.I bought a used flywheel from RDZ racing(rdzracing.com).It was alot cheaper than a new one. Also get the crank welded by someone who knows what they're doing before you put it back in.Just to be on the safe side. Quote
Wallrat Posted May 29, 2005 Report Posted May 29, 2005 Geez RDZ, you're talking about going from a simple flywheel exchange to tearing into the bottom end. I mean you could do it. Only takes a day to tear it apart and a day to put it back together, and really the only cost besides the welding is gaskets and seals...but damn. Talk about a can of worms. Personally I'd wait until your at least doing a top end to get the crank welded since you're 1/3 of the way there once you get the cyls off. Quote
fast87 Posted May 30, 2005 Author Report Posted May 30, 2005 the motor is in pieces now, and the crank is out, from what i can tell the end pins that are pressed in are exactly the same amount out from the crank on both sides, which should mean that the crank is not self-destructing(i hope) ....there isn't many good motorcycle shops locally but i'll see if they can true and weld it, Thanks ~Mark~ Quote
Animalman294 Posted May 31, 2005 Report Posted May 31, 2005 (edited) About the metal lathe, one thing you have to be sure of is that the shaft that the flywheel is attached to is tapered so you have to make damn sure that what ever lathe you use to straighten out the wheel is pefectly balanced on a tapered shaft. I'm not tryin' to start shit, but a jawed puller "Doh" . That sounds like something I would have tried . I think I would have held off the couple of days. I bought my puller for $9.99 and sent it off to Boonman and had the thing back within a week. Awsome service............. All kidding aside now you are in a rougher spot. You may go look in this section and the post by Bansheeryder had someone that was selling a stock unbalanced flywheel for a 2000 and up Shee. It may be worth a PM to find out. Good Luck man...... Edited May 31, 2005 by Animalman294 Quote
cb67rs1 Posted June 1, 2005 Report Posted June 1, 2005 dude if you try to cut shit from the inside of that flywheel you will be asking for trouble! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.