cudaz101 Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) First of all. This is a pretty strait forward and simple Do-It-Yourself project that anyone can do with a lil common sense and attention to detail. I would put it at a difficulty level of 4 on a scale of 10 Works Perf. supplies the replacement parts & parts breakdown documents of their shocks. This is just a GENERAL how to. It may or may not completley apply to your own works shock rebuild. That is where the common sense thing comes into play. So on to the project. 1. Determining what your shocks need "Resealed, Re-Valved, new shaft, new Head, etc..."...Mine needed a simple Reseal kit. They were just leaking. Works has alot of options for reseal, or other replacment pieces. Check your "shafts #5" for deep gouges in the smooth finish. Pretty much if you can catch your fingernail on it, thats not a good thing. You could still possibly get away with just hitting it with emery cloth depending on how bad it is...Another common sense thing. 2. Required tools...Most of them can be found in the house junk droor. Really, I found that no real "Special" tool were actually required. I did not need a special wrench to get my shock apart. I used a good thick rag and a set of good chanell locks and they came apart with no breech of the metal finish. Follow the instructions and tips that Works gives you and everything will go smooth. 3. Removing the main Shaft seal...This was probably the toughest part of the rebuild. The seal is pressed into the "Seal Head #7" aluminum body and it does not want to come out at all. Take your time and be carefull when removing this. I used a good set of dikes/sidecutters to bend over & snip the seal to weaken it. Eventually it will come out with little trouble. The key is to be patiant with it. If you do make any marks on the aluminum seating surface for the seal simply hit it with some emery cloth until smooth. Not a biggy really...There is no textbook way to remove this thing that I am aware of. It presses in pretty easy with a vise & wooden block. 4. Shock Diagram/Pats Breakdown "GENERAL" Like I mentioned before...This is not an IPB for ALL Works Shocks. It just gives you some basics, so its not all foreighn when you take them apart. It is basic enough to basically cover a works shock in general though. If you run into a snag contact Works with your inquiry. They were very helpfull to me, although they did try to get me to just send my shocks to them. Fair enough, business is business, but I like doing things myself just as something to do as apposed to saving alot of money. Although I did happen to save quite a bit. 5. COST... A. The reseal kit was $32 shipped to my door. B. 5w Hipo shock oil $12 locally C. Nitrogen Service $8 locally D. Supplies $10 maybe...Not counting my paint/stripper etc... 6. Time: My rebuild took 5-Days...Mine took awhile becasue I had to strip my shocks of the pimp gold rattle can paint from hell that did not want to come off. So re-finishing them is what took the most time. If it was just a reseal, or even a total rebuild it would have taken a few hours. I had to paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand...To get the finish quality I wanted. 7. Results: I am VERY happy with the results. No leaks, no gold paint and some decent suspension finally. I would recomend this to anyone that can change the oil in their bike. Really...If you read the whole document I have hosted/linked above you can't go wrong. 8. Finished Product... Its rattle can paint...I did put some time in it though. Some say that it holds heat etc...My type/style of riding I don't think all that really applies. Finally all done up and ready to bolt on for testing. Finally on the bike and working as advertised. Very pleased I really hope this helps someone. If not then I only wasted a few minutes I guess...haha... Cheers, Brad Edited May 23, 2005 by cudaz101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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