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R Cheetah cubs trail friendlyl


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Calvin Pollet, the designer & fabricater of the Cheetah Cub & the Sabertooth cylinder, which lives in South Coffeyville, KS, personally told me that they are NOT trail friendly. But they can be made that way with different port timings and certain carbs. Different port timings ARE NOT detuning a bike either, it is just giving you a different power curve at different times under the throttle. He also said that the smallest carb to use with these would be a 34mm carb. So obviously from his statement, if your using a stock carb or slightly bigger, your gonna lack full potential out of these cylinders, and mostly to utilize these cylinders, he said to make sure and go with alky carbs....If the cub gets enough air and alcohol, it will perform with the best of all worlds, but if you're wanting a trail cylinder, I wouldn't recommend going with them. Just my .02....

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Yes ,I did state that the CUB's are not a trail friendly design and I stand behind that statement. If A&S does mild port cleaning and mods to pull those numbers it's pretty damn obvious the motor has massive exhaust area, and it should for Christs sake its set up with triples and no PV's from the get-go......typically not a trail port signature. And yes it can be de-tuned...why dont we just pop out a grand  + for a world class design and start  chopping the base surfaces etc. ...hell if we try hard enough we could starve that bitch down to 50 horses or so  :wacko: . If you want a trail port, build one ....just dont start with these cylinders to accomplish it....or you are just more foolish than I could possibly comprehend....Jim

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jim, i totally agree with you 100%....this may be the first time, but i sure as shit agree with you... :cheers:

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i asked earlier about seeing the dyno of the bone stock and STROKE cub making 65+ hp :confused: i dont care about a stroker cub on alcohol with stock pipes or vforces who the fuck would do that assanine setup?. if the pipe(25lb stock french horns) doesnt match the port timing, its not gonna be makin shit on the dyno regardless of all its bells,whistles ,and exhaust ports.STOCK STROKE guys !!! :blink:

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Well I noticed this thread earlier in the week when it was first posted, had I not been on my way out the door I would have posted. Than I bust my ass all week working 10-12 hour days on som ebig jobs and figure I"ll drop back in here and see whats up and all I see are people doubting the cub cylinders in the trails.

 

PEOPLE I RUN CUBS STOKE STROKE 68MM BORE WITH ROCKETS AND A SINGLE 35MM TRINITY SETUP AND HAUL ASS THROUGH TIGHT TECHNICAL TRAILS. Matter of factly last Sunday it was the nicest day its been almost all year so far and I ran into 3 450's out in the trails 2 stock and 1 piped and filterd. I'll be fucking damned if I not only was right on thier ass through woops and all, but than in the small open field seperating trail areas I smoked the holy hell out of them and its only a short strip as soon as you get into 4th your shutting down.

 

If you know how to ride have the compression and gearing down right these fuckers will haul ass anywhere you want them too. A top end pipe on a "drag" cylinder how the fuck did I keep up with them? Oh thats right BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE POWER EVERYWHERE AND I KNOW HOW TO JET MY CARB.

 

I've only been riding for 3-4 years so I dont consider myself a super season vet trail rider.

 

 

If you haven't rode a cub cylinder in the woods even if your a builder, dont lambast the cubs as piece of shit trail cylinders.

I can take my cub right from the trails swap out tire to paddles and run the shit out of it on the dunes, than turn around and swap the tires again and run it on the strip, and go back and switch tires again and run MX. Gearing and tire ratios have alot to do with it. 22" drag tires, 20" 8 paddle haulers and 18" holeshots.

15 tooth front 41 rear.

 

It hauls ass and ill be damned if I'll sit here and listen you you bash my setup without ever riding it. Also if it came to a lower powerband I'd throw my motofast 2-1 pipe on.

I had a 404 sleeved with a cleanup done, not even a low woods port stricly cleanup with 40psi higher compression than my cub setup and it was a very noticable difference in power with the advantage to the cub.

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I RUN CUBS STOKE STROKE 68MM BORE WITH ROCKETS AND A SINGLE 35MM TRINITY SETUP AND HAUL ASS THROUGH TIGHT TECHNICAL TRAILS.

356373[/snapback]

 

i was wondering about a single carb set up on a cub, someone got 92hp with a single carb set up on the 4mil version. didnt say how big it was though.

 

http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

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PEOPLE I RUN CUBS STOKE STROKE 68MM BORE WITH ROCKETS AND A SINGLE 35MM TRINITY SETUP AND HAUL ASS THROUGH TIGHT TECHNICAL TRAILS.  Matter of factly last Sunday it was the nicest day its been almost all year so far and I ran into 3 450's out in the trails 2 stock and 1 piped and filterd.  I'll be fucking damned if I not only was right on thier ass through woops and all, but than in the small open field seperating trail areas I smoked the holy hell out of them and its only a short strip as soon as you get into 4th your shutting down.

i dont doubt at all that you could with some work and skill set the cubs up for trail riding. thats not at all what ive been saying. but for the average joe who wants to build a trail motor its not reasonable to drop 1200 bucks or so on cheetah cubs, then detune them so that they are more trail friendly. even if they dont detune them like you said you were in 4th. how many times in trails do you see higher than 4th gear? cubs were obviously designed to be run damn near wide open all the time, thats what most ppl buy them for.

 

If you know how to ride have the compression and gearing down right these fuckers will haul ass anywhere you want them too.  A top end pipe on a "drag" cylinder how the fuck did I keep up with them?  Oh thats right BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE POWER EVERYWHERE AND I KNOW HOW TO JET MY CARB.

you kept up because for one im assuming you have a higher riding skill level than most. second, gearing down. third, im assuming you mean higher compression for more bottom end? you got me on jetting a carb because its obvious from all my shitty running bikes i cant do that, or so some others here have said...

 

I've only been riding for 3-4 years so I dont consider myself a super season vet trail rider.

If you haven't rode a cub cylinder in the woods even if your a builder, dont lambast the cubs as piece of shit trail cylinders.

I can take my cub right from the trails swap out tire to paddles and run the shit out of it on the dunes, than turn around and swap the tires again and run it on the strip, and go back and switch tires again and run MX.  Gearing and tire ratios have alot to do with it.  22" drag tires, 20" 8 paddle haulers and 18" holeshots.

15 tooth front 41 rear.

i never said they were pieces of shit. i just think they are better suited for duning and dragging. it seems from what youve said here that you run all sorts of different terrain. most people dont. rarely does a person ride mx, dunes, trails and drag all with the same bike. if you want to accomplish all those things then maybe you should try a set of cubs.

 

It hauls ass and ill be damned if I'll sit here and listen you you bash my setup without ever riding it.  Also if it came to a lower powerband I'd throw my motofast 2-1 pipe on.

I had a 404 sleeved with a cleanup done, not even a low woods port stricly cleanup with 40psi higher compression than my cub setup and it was a very noticable difference in power with the advantage to the cub.

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if i had never ridden a cub setup i wouldnt even bother with posting in here. but since i have a cub motor sitting on my shop floor that was in my bike for a week i feel that i have more of an experience with it than most if not everyone on this site. i rode the shit out of my brothers gorr woods ported bike and there is a night and day difference between my cub motor and his. and still i think for the average trail rider who doesnt do any dragging, duning or whatever else its much more justifiable to spend 250 bucks on a woods port that not only will work great in the trails, but if geared properly can be used for dragging as well. you are right i have never ridden your setup but in the trails i want as much bottom end as i can get and im sure that your cub motor doesnt have the rpm range that i and most people would be looking for in a good trail motor.

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I'm still amazed when you guys talk about trail motors that you think a woods ported set of Banshee cylinders are the ticket. I can speak from experience that my RZ jugs are smoother and come on lower than ANY Bahsee cylindered bike that I have ridden EVER. I sold all my Banshee parts for $500, bought some RZ jugs for $200, another $150 in electronics and $250 port job from Patriot and have what I consider to be a superior "woods" motor to any stock cylindered bike for $100.

 

The port arangement of an RZ is built more for top end than the Banshee came stock, yet mine pulls harder down low and then rips on top. Just because someone has tried something different doesn't mean it won't work outside an environment it was inteneded for. I think a properly set up Cub could make an excellent trail motor, after all a buzzard ass set of cylinders from an early 80's street bike can do it.

 

Heres a 92 HP, 52 ft lbs of torque single carbed cub on PS.

 

http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...rt=1#Post307435

 

Just because it shouldn't, doesn't mean it won't.

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Well I noticed this thread earlier in the week when it was first posted, had I not been on my way out the door I would have posted.  Than I bust my ass all week working 10-12 hour days on som ebig jobs and figure I"ll drop back in here and see whats up and all I see are people doubting the cub cylinders in the trails.

 

PEOPLE I RUN CUBS STOKE STROKE 68MM BORE WITH ROCKETS AND A SINGLE 35MM TRINITY SETUP AND HAUL ASS THROUGH TIGHT TECHNICAL TRAILS.  Matter of factly last Sunday it was the nicest day its been almost all year so far and I ran into 3 450's out in the trails 2 stock and 1 piped and filterd.  I'll be fucking damned if I not only was right on thier ass through woops and all, but than in the small open field seperating trail areas I smoked the holy hell out of them and its only a short strip as soon as you get into 4th your shutting down.

 

If you know how to ride have the compression and gearing down right these fuckers will haul ass anywhere you want them too.  A top end pipe on a "drag" cylinder how the fuck did I keep up with them?  Oh thats right BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE POWER EVERYWHERE AND I KNOW HOW TO JET MY CARB.

 

I've only been riding for 3-4 years so I dont consider myself a super season vet trail rider.

If you haven't rode a cub cylinder in the woods even if your a builder, dont lambast the cubs as piece of shit trail cylinders.

I can take my cub right from the trails swap out tire to paddles and run the shit out of it on the dunes, than turn around and swap the tires again and run it on the strip, and go back and switch tires again and run MX.  Gearing and tire ratios have alot to do with it.  22" drag tires, 20" 8 paddle haulers and 18" holeshots.

15 tooth front 41 rear.

 

It hauls ass and ill be damned if I'll sit here and listen you you bash my setup without ever riding it.  Also if it came to a lower powerband I'd throw my motofast 2-1 pipe on.

I had a 404 sleeved with a cleanup done, not even a low woods port stricly cleanup with 40psi higher compression than my cub setup and it was a very noticable difference in power with the advantage to the cub.

356373[/snapback]

 

 

 

Im not knocking your CUBS my friend...definately not. I just cringe at the act of de-tuning anything from where it already is in power output...sacrolige at its finest. Its basic economics in my book...build a trail port for trails for cheap, and buy CUBS for balls out. Alot of riders would find themselves in trouble with such explosive power in the tight stuff and could actually run faster with a broad, predictable less explosive power delivery.......Jim

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