Doodle Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 I went to the dunes this past week and I think my clutch is starting to slip a little bit. I've never replaced it and it's six years old so it's probably time. I tried to adjust it by lining up those two "arrows" above the clutch cover using the adjuster on the perch, but when I lined them up, no go. It wouldn't even go into gear. So I put it back like it was and rode it for the rest of the weekend. It got along allright but just seemed to bog on the low end awful bad. Does this sound like a slipping clutch? Well anyways I think I'll try one of those Tusk kits since their fairly reasonable. I don't abuse mine to bad so I don't think I need to spend the extra on a Dirt Digger. Are clutches hard to install? I've replaced the pistons/rings in mine before with the help of a manual, but when I look at my manual in the clutch section it doesn't seem real clear. Is a clutch puller really needed because I don't have one. If it's needed I think I'll just take it to a friend and have him do it and not the stealership. Just wanted to know some opinions on install and the Tusk clutches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 (edited) I'm running a tusk clutch now and it seems to be fine but then I've only gotten about 1hr on it. Installing the cluch is a piece of cake. The only thing you'll need out of the ordinary is a torque wrench for torqing the clutch springs. Follow the Clymers and ask for help if you need it and when you get done you can think about how easy it was when you are riding your shee. You only need the cluch holder to remove the basket (clutch boss specifically) which you won't need to do if all you're doing is the plates. Drain the oil, drain the coolant, remove the clutch cover, remove the six bolts with the clutch springs on them, remove the pressure plate, switch the friction and steel plates with the old ones, and reverse the process and your good to go. Edited March 21, 2005 by PUSH THE THROTTLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledofthezep Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 Clean your carbs yet? Bogging real low...no pullage...just check them before you buy a new clutch. But yes...if you've got some mods & a stock clutch after 6years, shee may be trying to coax you into a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 Clean your carbs yet? Bogging real low...no pullage...just check them before you buy a new clutch. But yes...if you've got some mods & a stock clutch after 6years, shee may be trying to coax you into a new one. 342722[/snapback] Good Point, but if the arrows won't line up there's something wrong internally. It may be adjustment but for $35 why not tusk it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketboy Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 my ported she is loving my new tusk clutch withg 3 ebc stiffys and 3 stock springs ,its the perfect grab and not so damn stiff you white knuckle it ,tusk clutches are better than my old kevlar barnett IMO and cheap with a lifetime warranty too! ,how can you go wrong for 34$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doodle Posted March 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 Clean your carbs yet? Bogging real low...no pullage...just check them before you buy a new clutch. But yes...if you've got some mods & a stock clutch after 6years, shee may be trying to coax you into a new one. 342722[/snapback] Maybe I shouldn't have used the "bogging" term. It just doesn't pull for crap. It's hard to get it to pull the wheels up even in 2 gear. I guess it could be my jetting as well, but I think it's time for a new clutch anyways. Thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee4u Posted March 22, 2005 Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 I went to the dunes this past week and I think my clutch is starting to slip a little bit. I've never replaced it and it's six years old so it's probably time. I tried to adjust it by lining up those two "arrows" above the clutch cover using the adjuster on the perch, but when I lined them up, no go. It wouldn't even go into gear. So I put it back like it was and rode it for the rest of the weekend. It got along allright but just seemed to bog on the low end awful bad. Does this sound like a slipping clutch? Well anyways I think I'll try one of those Tusk kits since their fairly reasonable. I don't abuse mine to bad so I don't think I need to spend the extra on a Dirt Digger. Are clutches hard to install? I've replaced the pistons/rings in mine before with the help of a manual, but when I look at my manual in the clutch section it doesn't seem real clear. Is a clutch puller really needed because I don't have one. If it's needed I think I'll just take it to a friend and have him do it and not the stealership. Just wanted to know some opinions on install and the Tusk clutches. 342709[/snapback] Does not sound like clutch, it will slip in the higher gears.Make sure your clutch cable is not to tight . There ishould be some pklay at your lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doodle Posted March 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 Does not sound like clutch, it will slip in the higher gears.Make sure your clutch cable is not to tight . There ishould be some pklay at your lever. 342795[/snapback] I actually have lots of play in the cable. The clutch pulls in very easily, not like one with stiffer springs. My buddy rode mine and he said my clutch was shot, but I think it's because his pulls so much harder because of the stiffer springs. Is there any way to look at the clutch and tell if it needs to be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white trash Posted March 22, 2005 Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 I actually have lots of play in the cable. The clutch pulls in very easily, not like one with stiffer springs. My buddy rode mine and he said my clutch was shot, but I think it's because his pulls so much harder because of the stiffer springs. Is there any way to look at the clutch and tell if it needs to be replaced? 342827[/snapback] Yea, Youll still have to pull the cover and get the plates and fibers out. Get out your calipers and measure them at several points . It should list tolerances in your clymer. As for the cable play that was metioned. He wasnt refering to how easily the clutch pulls. You are suppsed to have a set amount of play at the lver before it actually gets enough tension to pull the cable. Dont remember the exact # but its somting like 1/8- 3/16 " ??? SOmeone correct me on that cuz I'm sure i am way off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doodle Posted March 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 I'm running a tusk clutch now and it seems to be fine but then I've only gotten about 1hr on it. Installing the cluch is a piece of cake. The only thing you'll need out of the ordinary is a torque wrench for torqing the clutch springs. Follow the Clymers and ask for help if you need it and when you get done you can think about how easy it was when you are riding your shee. You only need the cluch holder to remove the basket (clutch boss specifically) which you won't need to do if all you're doing is the plates. Drain the oil, drain the coolant, remove the clutch cover, remove the six bolts with the clutch springs on them, remove the pressure plate, switch the friction and steel plates with the old ones, and reverse the process and your good to go. 342715[/snapback] When is it necessasary to pull the clutch basket? So you don't need to do this just to replace the plates/fibers? Sounds like I could handle it if that's all you have to do. What is the correct torque on the springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted March 22, 2005 Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 When is it necessasary to pull the clutch basket? So you don't need to do this just to replace the plates/fibers? Sounds like I could handle it if that's all you have to do. What is the correct torque on the springs? 343171[/snapback] You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted March 22, 2005 Report Share Posted March 22, 2005 I think the correct torque is 7 ftlb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 yeah, that's the right torque, just go by feel also. sometimes the bolt studs will crack and break from overtightening, before the torque setting is reached. 343333[/snapback] I've had that happen twice. They come out easy enough but then you have to run around to find a replacement. The spring will keep them in place. Just tighten them by feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE BANSHEE 20 Posted March 23, 2005 Report Share Posted March 23, 2005 WE DRAG RACE & I USE R1 CYCLE CLUTCHES HELD UP FOR ABOUT A YEAR WILL FIT RIGHT IN STOCK BASCKET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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