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cheetah cub cylinders


minishee

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The cubs are going to be very cool, I plan on selling them as well. But one thing you guys should be aware of is that these cylinders are rated at 200BMEP(drag race motor). This type of power will be for pretty much just that. You are not going to be able to hook this thing up for MX, TT etc. Also, nikasil coating is not maintenance free, one coolant leak and the surface can deteriorate very rapidly. If you choose to change the porting, it should also be re-coated as well....just a few things to consider....Jim

320857[/snapback]

 

:huh: ok, so would it pretty much be a waste of money gettin these cylinders if you only do trail riding and hill climbing? Would it just be to much power to handle on trails and stuff? Would you still have too much will spin even with good tires? And I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to drag race friends and stuff on an asphalt road with out a wheelie bar, the front would come up in every gear :shootself:

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Below is an email from Dan at patriot racing. Maintenece free implies that no bore or honing work is needed when the pistons and rings wear out like regular cast iron cylinders. With stock cylinders you have to get them bored to the next level and get them honed. I never said you can melt down the engine and just put it back together. If you are not confident on jetting or on how to assemble a motor then it would not be wise to drop 2 grand on a cheetah. When properly jetted and assembled the cheetah is just as reliable if not more and makes gobs more power than the the stock cylinders.

 

There are also two facts to consider on your journey as to how fast you want to go.

1. to go fast, it costs money

2. fast things break

These laws apply to any motorsports, ie. cars, bikes, atv's.

If you have not convinced yourself of this yet, then you will be upset when they happen.

 

If anyone has a planetsand account you can visit planetsand and the person who designed the cheetah is a moderator over there and a regular on the forums. His name is Calvin Pollet. There are a lot of post on PS about the cheetah and Calvin can answer any questions. Here is calvin's website for cheetah:

 

http://www.cpindinc.com/products/Yamaha/Ch...heetah_Cub.html

 

"The 421 is a really great motor. Reliability is very good. Definately not a tweaky motor. With any performance motor- it is a good idea to upgrade the radiator. Even with a hot rod stock motor they can start to get hot in some occasions. A larger radiator eliminates this issue. This motor should easily get 150 gallons of fuel thru it before needing to take a look at replacing the pistons. With a Nikasil plated bore, theres no machine work involved- just drop in new pistons."

 

421 Cheetah

Cylinder & Head

Pistons

Intake

V-Force

Gasket kit

Porting- both cylinder and case/tunnel

Cylinder plating

4mm Stroker crank

 

We can set you up to run pump gas in this motor.

-Dan

"Quality thru Performance, Performance thru Quality"

www.patriotracing.net

Phn: 253.826.4881

Edited by 1800bigk
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Here is a post I copied from planetsand. It is a post where calvin pollet (maker of the cheetah) is answering a question about cheetah bores. In the middles of the post you can see where he mentions how long a nikasil plated bore will last. And remember, how many times have you had to have your cylinders re honed because they wore out and lost compression.

 

copied directly from www.planetsand.com

{"It also depends on which piston you are running. Is it a 10 mill or a 14mill, because they take a different piston series, with different cam grinds on the O.D.

 

I am surprised that Millennium would have set them up that tight for you!

 

"Back in the day", (as us old guys like to say it....lol), I ran some Dyno tests on a 70mm bore engine.....and the best hp results were from a clearence of .008, (that's right...8 thousandths of an inch!!!), we used a set of .010 over rings, (filed on the endgaps), to tighten the seal back up....and that was the best performance we got out of it. It was VERY noisey....and I am not recommending it as what to run on a set of cylinder bores. I am just saying with a nicosil bore, there is going to be no wear on the bore for possibly a few years, but if you set it up that tight it will require a MAJOR breakin time for the pistons to establish the clearence they need, EVERYTIME you put new pistons in it.

 

I personally think piston clearence is kind-of like the oil ratio that a person runs......on the oil issue nearly everyone I have talked to that has run dyno and race testing runs rich ratios on the oil to get the best performance, as rich as they can stand it in some cases.........clearence is the same way in my book, you want it as "loose" as you can stand it, don't set it up already worn out.....but, (especially if you have a bore that doesn't wear), why not set it up to get the best performance you can and put a set of rings in it a little more often if it needs it."}

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