Wallrat Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 (edited) I talked with SoCal fab today about some of their different options. Here's what I found: (pictures borrowed from an old thread by RNBrad) Front LT setup (14" of travel) - $3250 with elkas, slightly less for TCS Rear no link LT setup (14" of travel) - $1100 for shock (custom made 18" elka) and install (upper shock mount needs to be moved. No mods needed to be done to swingarm but it's setup for a +2). Dual round tube +2 swingarm for LT setup - $850 w/ anodized carrier +2, +1 arms or +3+1 arms - $600 powdercoated Also I asked about the King shocks. He said to be honest they haven't been able to 100% dial them in on the banshee. Also he said they were heavy (about 3 lbs more than elkas per shock). Here's their site: www.socalfab.com And here's RNBrad's original thread (more pics there): SoCalFab LT front and rear suspension Edited January 31, 2005 by Wallrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDD Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 Matt why would you get a round or oval tubing swingarm if you are going long travel on the front? If you go long travel your probably better off sticking with the stronger square tube design. You will probably jump that banshee and I know you wouldn't want the swingarm to crack. There is a guy on another board that modifies swingarms for a no link setup. He makes a new mount on the swingarm so you don't have to deal with making a new upper mount. He has a Blaster with 14+ inches of travel. I'll have to get more details about the valving/spring issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted January 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 the LT rear setup at socal fab can use any +2 swingarm. There's just doesn't have the extra bolt holes. Plus their round tube swinger isn't like you think, it similar to the dual tube design that JDperformance uses. The guy at socal said they run it on their baja bikes with no problem...is heavier than stock tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUNEDEMON Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 Matt why would you get a round or oval tubing swingarm if you are going long travel on the front? If you go long travel your probably better off sticking with the stronger square tube design. You will probably jump that banshee and I know you wouldn't want the swingarm to crack. 314985[/snapback] SDD, not to insult you Bro, but the design of the swing arm is critical and the material used to build the swingarm is critical not the shape of the tube. My +4 arm is 4130 chromoly, oval tube, ridden and jumped hard - no cracking - no issues. Again, I'm not trying to dis-credit you, just trying to provide information. Wallrat, if you get that stuff you will no longer be allowed to camp / ride / hang out with us, sorry man but I can not be shown up like that . On a side note I rode a Dean Sundahl framed Banshee this weekend, with the correct valving and spring rate it would make one hell of a dune bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 SDD, not to insult you Bro, but the design of the swing arm is critical and the material used to build the swingarm is critical not the shape of the tube. My +4 arm is 4130 chromoly, oval tube, ridden and jumped hard - no cracking - no issues. Again, I'm not trying to dis-credit you, just trying to provide information. Wallrat, if you get that stuff you will no longer be allowed to camp / ride / hang out with us, sorry man but I can not be shown up like that . On a side note I rode a Dean Sundahl framed Banshee this weekend, with the correct valving and spring rate it would make one hell of a dune bike. 315072[/snapback] So If you get Long Travel In the Front you also Need Long Travel For The Rear? I agree square tubing is Stronger when welded the same as round as well as made of the same material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted February 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 I'm not getting the LT front, I just asked/posted for the benefit of the guys on the HQ. For my needs it just doesn't make sense (like using a sledge hammer on a thumb tack). I'll be getting some +2's or MAYBE some +3's up front with some TCS, not sure on what brand arms yet. When it comes to the rear...well I might go with SoCal Fab's LT kit. That thing is definately cherry! I think the final decision will be made by my wallet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 I'm not getting the LT front, I just asked/posted for the benefit of the guys on the HQ. For my needs it just doesn't make sense (like using a sledge hammer on a thumb tack). I'll be getting some +2's or MAYBE some +3's up front with some TCS, not sure on what brand arms yet. When it comes to the rear...well I might go with SoCal Fab's LT kit. That thing is definately cherry! I think the final decision will be made by my wallet. 315187[/snapback] Won't that make the rear end stick up way higher than the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted February 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Ride height is the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 I believe the oval design is the strongest design. I've heard that more than once but I'm sure it doesn't apply in all cases. I also noticed the these new high end sports bikes are using an oval design swingers over the square design for superior strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDD Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Round tubes are stronger than square but the problem is shops will use round tubing with a thinner wall thickness. It's also much easier to reinforce a square tube than a round tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Round tubes are stronger than square but the problem is shops will use round tubing with a thinner wall thickness. It's also much easier to reinforce a square tube than a round tube. 317454[/snapback] dosent make sense to me, but I do see how oval would be stronger than round since it is closer to a rectangle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tithead Posted March 31, 2005 Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 dosent make sense to me, but I do see how oval would be stronger than round since it is closer to a rectangle. 321105[/snapback] so its about $4000 for the front and rear set-up? stclark816, i may be making a few changes to my list! this setup is better than the one i origonally planned for my banshee. id much rather have this setup that what i origonally planned, im making my banshee an even more unique banshee. one with parts that no one has seen over here. i would think that because this setup is so new, no one will have seen it. wallrat, anychance you could shoot me a pm with more details on this front and rear setup with a final, definate price???? if you can i would be very greatful! tithead - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.