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Leaking Cool Head


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OK, I have had this head on my Banshee for over two years now and I have never had a problem with leaking. I just finished with my new motor and I cannot get the head to stop leakin. The first trip out it leaked from the bolts on the top and into the cylinders. I pulled the head off to put new seals into it and the insides of the cylinders were all miky and sludgy from the coolant. I ordered new O-rings from Dave at Noss and I put it all back together (with grease...etc) and I filled it back up with coolant. I let it sit overnight without starting her and there is coolant all over the top of the head around all of the bolts. Torques and patterns were all done. Please help!!!

 

Ken

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Ken,

 

Coolant leaking up past the studs can usually be fixed with some RTV on the threads before installing the nuts. I also have acorn nuts and copper washers if you need them. (I wasn't including them two years ago). The stock studs sometimes tend to leak because the diameter of the body of the stud is smaller than the major diameter of the threads of the stud.

 

Leakage into the cylinders is a whole other problem. My first suspicion would be a burr or ding in one of the domes or the base plate. Did the head have to be pryed off? When you reassembled with new orings did you still have the leakage into the cylinders or only around the studs?

 

-David

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David,

Thanks. I am using the Acorn nuts now and I was thinking that maybe they were bottoming out. Maybe washers would help. I will try the sealant too and see if that works. Maybe I need to get those acorn nuts and washers from ya along with some new O-rings if I take this back apart.

 

Yes, the head had to be pryed off after the leakage into the cylinders. I have not started the motor after I repacked the head. I noticed it leaking around the studs after I filled it back up with coolant so I am not sure if it is leaking into the cylinders again or not. Thanks for your help!!

 

Ken

 

 

Ken,

 

Coolant leaking up past the studs can usually be fixed with some RTV on the threads before installing the nuts. I also have acorn nuts and copper washers if you need them. (I wasn't including them two years ago). The stock studs sometimes tend to leak because the diameter of the body of the stud is smaller than the major diameter of the threads of the stud.

 

Leakage into the cylinders is a whole other problem. My first suspicion would be a burr or ding in one of the domes or the base plate. Did the head have to be pryed off? When you reassembled with new orings did you still have the leakage into the cylinders or only around the studs?

 

-David

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