Engine Ice Coolant

[Ducman]

I ended up taking my NOSS head on and off a few times recently in the process of taking measurements and getting some new stroker domes made by NOSS. I thought since I was draining and replacing the coolant a few times I would finish up by flushing the system and refilling with Engine Ice coolant. I met a few people at the doons that swore that it was the shizzel and that it was way better than the Red line Watter Wetter.

 

Engine Ice is a coolant (blue in color) made by a company called Cycle Logic. I bought it at a local dealer for $16.95 for a 1/2 gallon (or 2 quarts = 1.89L) container. It is made to be used straight, no adding/mixing water. It is said to have increased wetting property over stangdard coolant so effectively the coolant behaves as if there is more surface area in the system for heat exchange. I believe it is also supposed to be biodegradable.

 

To flush the system I first detached the radiator hose from the water pump and drained. I drained the coolant overflow bottle and left the hoses disconnected. I pushed a garden hose into the radiator hose and turned it on just a crack so as to not over presurize the system and blow seals. I let it run for a few minutes to clear out all remaining radiator fluid and then let drain again. Next, I did the same thing with a shop vac hooked up to blow air and blew air through the system untill it quit spitting water. Finally, I put the hoses back on and filled the system throught the radiator cap, let it idle for a few minutes and topped it off.

 

Comparing it to previous use, the cooling system has always been completely stock and I used the regular ol' green shit you get already mixed 50/50 and ready to used from the auto parts store. As far as overheating, lot of times when trail riding especially in sand, or doing a lot of techical hill climbs back to back in 1rst through 3rd gear, and similar high load but low gear operation, it would spit a little coolant somethimes if you shut if off at the top of a hill or if you didn't run it at a decent speed to get some airflow through the radiator before shutting it down. And in general under these conditions you would get typically get a wiff of radiator fluid somethimes while riding especially at the top of a hill climb and you could feel quite a bit of heat comming off the motor and pipes. More or less typical banshee behavior from what I gather. This actually seamed worse on my stock motor compared to the 4mm stroker with +6 timing for what ever reason. So far with the engine ice, I have yet to ever spit or get a wiff of any coolant. I went trail riding on a steep ass gnarly rough trail that starts out at 1000 ft elev and ends at around 5000 ft elev. There are long stretches where you climb up in elevation and cant go faster than about second gear and I never had any indication that it was even getting hot. I felt very little heat comming off the motor and I swear, I dont know why it would make much difference, but my pipes even seem like they run cooler. I don't have a temp guage but I know it has made a very significant difference. Before you buy a bigger radiator or billet impeller to fix an overheating problem assuming you are jetted perfectly I'd try this shit out.

 

To fill my entire cooling system including overflow bottle I only used most of a 1/2 gallon jug, and I bought 2 just to be safe. Now, I probably have enough left, I guess I'll have to do the YFZ.

[kw04]

I ended up taking my NOSS head on and off a few times recently in the process of taking measurements and getting some new stroker domes made by NOSS.  I thought since I was draining and replacing the coolant a few times I would finish up by flushing the system and refilling with Engine Ice coolant.  I met a few people at the doons that swore that it was the shizzel and that it was way better than the Red line Watter Wetter.

 

Engine Ice is a coolant (blue in color) made by a company called Cycle Logic.  I bought it at a local dealer for $16.95 for a 1/2 gallon (or 2 quarts = 1.89L) container.  It is made to be used straight, no adding/mixing water.  It is said to have increased wetting property over stangdard coolant so effectively the coolant behaves as if there is more surface area in the system for heat exchange.  I believe it is also supposed to be biodegradable.

 

To flush the system I first detached the radiator hose from the water pump and drained.  I drained the coolant overflow bottle and left the hoses disconnected.  I pushed a garden hose into the radiator hose and turned it on just a crack so as to not over presurize the system and blow seals.  I let it run for a few minutes to clear out all remaining radiator fluid and then let drain again.  Next, I did the same thing with a shop vac hooked up to blow air and blew air through the system untill it quit spitting water.    Finally, I put the hoses back on and filled the system throught the radiator cap, let it idle for a few minutes and topped it off.

 

Comparing it to previous use, the cooling system has always been completely stock and I used the regular ol' green shit you get already mixed 50/50 and ready to used from the auto parts store.  As far as overheating, lot of times when trail riding especially in sand, or doing a lot of techical hill climbs back to back in 1rst through 3rd gear, and similar high load but low gear operation, it would spit a little coolant somethimes if you shut if off at the top of a hill or if you didn't run it at a decent speed to get some airflow through the radiator before shutting it down.  And in general under these conditions you would get typically get a wiff of radiator fluid somethimes while riding especially at the top of a hill climb and you could feel quite a bit of heat comming off the motor and pipes.  More or less typical banshee behavior from what I gather.  This actually seamed worse on my stock motor compared to the 4mm stroker with +6 timing for what ever reason.  So far with the engine ice, I have yet to ever spit or get a wiff of any coolant.  I went trail riding on a steep ass gnarly rough trail that starts out at 1000 ft elev and ends at around 5000 ft elev.  There are long stretches where you climb up in elevation and cant go faster than about second gear and I never had any indication that it was even getting hot.  I felt very little heat comming off the motor and I swear, I dont know why it would make much difference, but my pipes even seem like they run cooler.  I don't have a temp guage but I know it has made a very significant difference.  Before you buy a bigger radiator or billet impeller to fix an overheating problem assuming you are jetted perfectly I'd try this shit out.

 

To fill my entire cooling system including overflow bottle I only used most of a 1/2 gallon jug, and I bought 2 just to be safe.  Now, I probably have enough left, I guess I'll have to do the YFZ.

301013[/snapback]

i use the same shit on my stroker and i can hardly feel the heat coming off the engine. at first i thought something was wrong cause i couldnt really tell how hot it was running but i would soy as long as both sides are running good and the engine is cold i would say its good.

[RNBRAD]

I also experience this but I use the redline water wetter. Good info btw.

[05bansh]

Very good to hear! A rep. from rocky mountian atv talk me into buying a bottle a few weeks ago, just havent had time to change it out yet.

[banshee tuner]

engine ice works great for me cause unless I idle for a long time I don't have cooling problems.

[Banshee0028]

Ducman, have you ever used or heard anything about Amsoil radiator fluid? They say it has better cooling specs than Engine Ice!!! Any opinions??

[nathan_sayre]

i've had good luck with engine ice and the mechanic at my shop swears by it... at 17 bucks it's a little on the high side, but if you get in good with the parts guy he can cut you a little break on it

[01bansheefox]

So just fill your radiator with this stuff, no adding water also does this act as an anti-freeze?

[nathan_sayre]

pour it in and go

[Nighty]

Its just destilized watter with a color in it..

Yes pure watter cools better then 50/50 mixed stuff.

 

And yes watter is bio degradable

[05bansh]

So just fill your radiator with this stuff, no adding water also does this act as an anti-freeze?

308513[/snapback]

Yea, just fill your radiator and go, no adding water or antifreeze. But, the only downfall of it is its not an antifreeze. So I would only use this stuff in the summer.

[nathan_sayre]

if i'm not mistaken, engine ice protects down to around -25 degrees. Its not great... but most winters temps don't get that low.

[Justintoxicated]

Its just destilized watter with a color in it..

Yes pure watter cools better then 50/50 mixed stuff.

 

And yes watter is bio degradable

310857[/snapback]

 

 

No it's not! LMFAO

[blk02banshee]

You guys might find this interesting...I ran into a pro trials rider last summer, whose bike was overheating, and I asked him if he ever tried engine ice. He said "hell no!, I ran it for a season, and that stuff is junk." He said that his mechanic told him that engine ice will help with the cooling, but will slowly corrode the shit out of the system and eat seals.

I don't know if he's right or not, but I've been running engine ice for over a year, and have'nt had a problem yet.

[BURKE_DADDY]

Its just destilized watter with a color in it..

Yes pure watter cools better then 50/50 mixed stuff.

 

And yes watter is bio degradable

310857[/snapback]

 

 

the active chemical in the engine ice is Propylene Glycol.Propylene glycol is a derivative of natural gas. It is commonly used in a variety of consumer products and food products, including deodorants, pharmaceuticals, moisturizing lotions, and fat-free ice cream and sour cream products. engine ice uses a 1to1 rato of Propylene Glycol and distiled water.i think they sell the pure Propylene Glycol for 15 dollars a gallon.

Edited February 9, 2005 by BURKE_DADDY