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porting


93blueoval

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I wouldn't go at it blind for sure. I would get some sport port templates from race logic or there may be some others i'm not sure about. Use these to mark your ports and help quide your grinding. You can ruin a good set of cylinders real quick if you don't know what your doing. All it takes is to miss beveling a 1/4'' of a port and snag :cry: there goes a ring. It requires all shapes and sizes of grinding wheel, cones, cylinders of both rock and different grades of sand paper. Dremmel and die grinder are probably the most popular tools but I would recommend a shaft extension for each. The die grinder will be controlled by a foot petal this way.

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The proper machine to use is made by CC Specialty tool . The other one that is real close is Fordom. Type in CCSpecialtytool.com and you will see the tools and the prices. Go to ebay and try Foredom, that is the other good machine. Dremel does make a variable speed grinder but it is not going to be heavy enough to do more than a couple of jobs. The foredom type grinder on ebay would be OK for the money. The power at slow RPMs is what you need. Aluminum needs to be ground on at slow speeds. I use carbide bits, some single cut and some double cut. Finish up with sanding rolls.

Don't polish the intake! Its ok to polish the exhaust. I went to a auto paint store and bought some 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper and used the shank from a old six inch carbide bit and duct taped the strip of sand paper to the shank. Then just go to polishing. Most of the time when you get to 1000 grit the polish looks pretty good.

The big exspence is that 90 degree cutter, but you need it to get the tranfer tubes. How good you get them, and the timeing on the ports will make or brake your port job. You want to widen the ports first then raise. The more you raise the exhaust the peakeyer your power will be.

Really you should go read a book by A Grayham Bell,or Gordon Jennings. If you are serious about porting. If you are just going to clean up the ports maybe you don't need to, but they will tell you the WHY you do thing a certain way or not to do them.

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I used sportport template kit and they turned out very nice,I sent out the cylinders for a bore job and I'm waiting for them to return.I used a precision pencil grinder with carbide bit ,went to a fine stone and then to a mini flapper wheel.The most important thing is patience.I invested about 16 hours over 2 weeks on my cylinders.Transfers are a bitch,but just be patient.It may take a long time,but if you have the right tools and a steady hand,it can be done.

 

I took it a step further by making my own porting templates from other engine builders cylinders.With just a pencil and paper you can make a portmap of any cylinder.Some magnetic vinyl and voila.I've got two sets of cylinders I'm porting now with portmaps from some reputable porters.The hardest part is blueprinting the cylinder,After that it just about makin a template and mass production.

Edited by Nightrider
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  • 3 years later...
The proper machine to use is made by CC Specialty tool . The other one that is real close is Fordom. Type in CCSpecialtytool.com and you will see the tools and the prices. Go to ebay and try Foredom, that is the other good machine. Dremel does make a variable speed grinder but it is not going to be heavy enough to do more than a couple of jobs. The foredom type grinder on ebay would be OK for the money. The power at slow RPMs is what you need. Aluminum needs to be ground on at slow speeds. I use carbide bits, some single cut and some double cut. Finish up with sanding rolls.

Don't polish the intake! Its ok to polish the exhaust. I went to a auto paint store and bought some 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper and used the shank from a old six inch carbide bit and duct taped the strip of sand paper to the shank. Then just go to polishing. Most of the time when you get to 1000 grit the polish looks pretty good.

The big exspence is that 90 degree cutter, but you need it to get the tranfer tubes. How good you get them, and the timeing on the ports will make or brake your port job. You want to widen the ports first then raise. The more you raise the exhaust the peakeyer your power will be.

Really you should go read a book by A Grayham Bell,or Gordon Jennings. If you are serious about porting. If you are just going to clean up the ports maybe you don't need to, but they will tell you the WHY you do thing a certain way or not to do them.

 

You are so right the proper machine is by CC Specialty. Thanks for the good word!! The #1mc is expensive but it is worth it. Just been on here checking out the word on porting! Lots of Love from Tennessee! :kiss:

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