racer Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 just get a t-pin front end dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandornothing Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 (edited) We're not going to be mounting a heim in double shear on anyting on a Banshee. You can get a teflon lined Rod end (Heim joint) to last just as long as a Ball joint. However, on the end of an A-Arm, you must use what is called a "high angle" rod end. Otherwise, the rod end will bind when the suspension cycles. This could be changed by re-designing the outer knuckle, and rotating the rod end 90 degres. But now, we have alot of side loads that will rear their ugly heads.... IMHO, it's 6 1/2 dozen to the other...... 286019[/snapback] So wait, what?.....help me understand. Youve been doing this for awhile obviously, so help me understand (in lamens terms) in your opinion, are the heims shit, OK, better than stock , good, or great?? the ones im running are rated at 18000+ pounds before they snap, crackle or pop (so they say). That has got to be stronger than stock. I only ask because when people that know what the hell they are talking about i listen. Im all ears. By the way, I cant wait for the flywheel to show up Wednesday either! Edited November 29, 2004 by sandornothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 I have personally seen 3 sets of heims and they've all had play in them. They are to exposed to the elimantes. Now that there are boots for them, this may help that quit a bit. Heim joints were not made to be used as a ball joint application. They were made to have force applied to them as boonman was kind of getting at by rotating it 90 degrees.. .but that's not the same forces put out by the a-arms. It's like boonman said. Which ever you get is better than stock. I have not had any experience with the heim with boots on them. I'd sure would like to see them though. Anybody have pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 id like to the see the booted heims as well. but i dont see how they could be much different looking than a typical tierod end. Boon, could you please ellaborate more on the single and double shear thing you were talking about. this stuff really interests me. thanx dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 brad, do those boots limit the articulation of the joint itself any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 No, they are totally flexible. I'm sure they would need replacing every so often, not sure of the durability as yet but they should last a few seasons. Mine will be here soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Damn that's nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 I have the ASR arms and have had zero problems with them for 2 years. I do like the rubber boot there and would love to know where I can get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Alright, in a double shear design, there is a mount on either side of the joint itself. (when talking about a rod end, or commonly referred to as a heim joint) I need to get a couple pics to better explain this. Shit, think of a leaf spring on a vehicle. The pivot bolts on a leaf spring on a vehicle are mounted in a double shear fashion. Basically, that bolt would have to break in 2 places for the moveable joint to "seperate". Take away one side of the mount in that equation, and you would have a single shear. In which if the bolt breaks in one spot, the pieces will seperate. If you can follow that... Think of your swingarm on your shee. The long bolt that goes through it. That is a double shear. It would need to break, theoretically in 2 places, (on either side of the swingarm) for the arm to completely and immediately come away from the bike. I'm not talking about the bolt breaking, and working loose, and fallingout, and all that. Think immediately. Within fractions of a second. Now, would it be practical in that application to mount that in a single shear fashion in which you remove one mount off the frame and bolt the swinger on? Nope. Because it just can't handle the load. Too much force. Even if the frame would handle it, (without twisting) there would be alot of force on the bolt..... It would break. BUT, it doesn't break in it's current "double shear" configuration. With front ends, there essentially is kind of a double shear mount. Because you have the upper and lower pivots on the knuckle. Kind of. In a really basic kind of sense. I know someone is gonna try to rip that one to shreds... Anyways, I'm not speaking about the upper and lower joints independantly, I am speaking of the knuckle unit as a whole..... Likely, you will find that your shit, whichever route you choose, (rod end or ball joint) will fail eventually. Now, greasable ball joints, will probably be the most cost effective. Teflon lined high angle rod ends would be superb. I ran teflon lined rod ends on my pickup. In a complete four link setup. Located both front and rear axles. I never had an ounce of play in them. They never squeaked. Never a hint of trouble. They were rather pricey. They were also not high angle. But, that truck saw it's fair share of beatings. And the rear axle was mounted in a single shear fashion at the rear axle. Never had a problem..... So, take it for what it's worth. On the front end of your bike, you aren't going to be adding material to the knuckle for a double shear mount. Also, on rod ends, you will likely have to drill out the taper for a bolt to go through..... Not too bad. I did that to my tie rod mounts...... I also made my own steering stem.... And, well, nevermind..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 (edited) thank you boon. i followed that quite nicely. maybe ill paint a picture. Edited November 29, 2004 by therail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stclark04 Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 therail made this, Im posting it for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Precisely!!!!! I'm excited someone "got it" after my ramblings...... Maybe I'm in the wrong profession. Perhaps I should be a teacher.... Then again, maybe not.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I've always knocked the heim joints in a ball joint application, but I sure like the idea of those boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I'm thinking my heims might need to start using protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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