BANSHEE_JAY Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 I was out a few days ago and i think i took my crank out if i do have to replace it what kind should i look at???? I was driving along not even hard and the bike made a funny chug noice i shut it then later tried to kick it over to find it had seized when i got the bike home it would kick over but i haven't really tried starting it but when it did start to turn over it made the chug noice again!! Any ideas im open to them Thankx Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 you wont know any thing till you open the motor up i could be a cracked piston. if the crank is bad i would put a +4 stroker in. if you need a good used crank i will have one that i would be will ing to sell I was out a few days ago and i think i took my crank out if i do have to replace it what kind should i look at???? I was driving along not even hard and the bike made a funny chug noice i shut it then later tried to kick it over to find it had seized when i got the bike home it would kick over but i haven't really tried starting it but when it did start to turn over it made the chug noice again!! Any ideas im open to them Thankx Jay 282660[/snapback] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotulMonsta Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 Yeah dude, I wouldn't fuck with it anymore until you tear the bitch apart. Gotx to find out what's wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 i hear the twister billet cranks are nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 Yeah dude, I wouldn't fuck with it anymore until you tear the bitch apart. Gotx to find out what's wrong 282674[/snapback] I love this place . Keepin' it real. Can I get a hell yeah! But seriously, I can't condone that kind of fuckin' language around here . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BitchenBanshee Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 TDR racing is about the best / cheapest place if you plan on getting out of it cheap. I think I paid 350 to get mine rebuilt and it included welding and long rods... Otherwise a +4 may be the other way to go. You'll likley be in it around 600 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 No experience with siezed rod bearings on a banshee but had it happen to the wifes blaster. The motor definitly couldn't be turned over when it had just happend and just barely when it had cooled down. You'll defintely know if it is your crank or not if you pull the cylinders and the rods are stiffer than hell to move back and forth, or are sloppy loose side to side, or if you cant easily turn the crank using yor hand on the kick start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIRST BANSHEE Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 I bought a wiseco hot rod crank new. it was $380. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 I've had two cranks go on me. The both went at low rpm's. If it's your crank you need to figure out if you want to go expensive... or really really expensive to fix it...lol Tdr is know for banshee cranks and they are probably the cheapest. 350-400 for a crank 60-80 for a bore job 150-190 for a piston kit and gasket set 30 for a stock used head 30 for a seal kit. If you want to go 4mm and do it right you have to get it ported 500 crank 200-500 porting 60-80 bore 150-190 piston kit and gasket set 190-210 (I think) for noss head (don't need to but highly suggested) 25 for a spacer plate (If you don't run the pistons into the head) 30 for a seal kit 300 for carbs and jets 100 for intakes 40 to mod the air filter sys or get pod filters 200 for reeds and reed cages (those can be done later) So, if it's your crank you have a lot to think about. I can tell you that you'll get most of your power from the porting so pick a builder wisely if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshv5.0 Posted November 20, 2004 Report Share Posted November 20, 2004 i had mine go out and i sent mine to a guy in florida and he rebuilt mine trued and welded with bottom end seals .for 288 shipped i can give you his email if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee76179 Posted November 20, 2004 Report Share Posted November 20, 2004 Rod, is right there is a lot more than just stroking it.. All the little odds and ends... If U R already ported and bigger carbs yes go w/stroker other wise U r looking to spend a lot of cash for a stroked crank.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynabanshee Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 Rod, is right there is a lot more than just stroking it.. All the little odds and ends... If U R already ported and bigger carbs yes go w/stroker other wise U r looking to spend a lot of cash for a stroked crank.. 282900[/snapback] I thought you a slim chance of existing porting being compatible with 4mm or more stroker? I looked into stroking on my last bike, and for some reason I remember something about the possibility of needing unported jugs also. ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee04le Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 Correct. Once ported for a stock stroke, you cannot re-port for a 4mm or whatever. Any attempts at such would result in relatively poor performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 While I agree with the talk here about porting and where to get a new crank, it sounds to me like your flywheel came loose. If that is the case, chances are you will not be needing a new crank. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted November 22, 2004 Report Share Posted November 22, 2004 Correct. Once ported for a stock stroke, you cannot re-port fora 4mm or whatever. Any attempts at such would result in relatively poor performance. 283189[/snapback] Depends on the porting. My cyilinders were previously ported before my stroker. The were borderline for the stroker but they did work out. Depends on how much was originally cut from the cylinders. You're builder can tell you more though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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