dynabanshee Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Ok, I've ordered my race logic templates. I'm polishing up the jugs and head while I wait. In the mean time, I'd like to get some info from those who have used the templates. I've spoken with a few of you and seem to get conflicting info. I am using stock carbs, nothing special but TORS removed. A couple of you said you had to go to bigger carbs, a couple said you didn't, and even that the jetting was not affected. If the port job doesn't require new carbs to see the bulk of the results, well I don't want to do it. I would be open to boring them since it is easy enough if it can help some. What I want to figure out is a baseline for my carb setup. Do I need new carbs, and regardless of if I do or not, what is a good baseline to jet from if rejetting is needed? My setup is pretty simple: Milled head T-5's Dyna FS Ignition Flywheel 80% of my riding is at ISDRA (Gordons Well and such). The other is desert riding at about the same temp and elevation. I am going to skip the transfers unless I can get a local machinist to do it cheap or convince them to let me come in and use their tool for a small fee. From the past threads it seems like a dremel with 1/4"and 3/4" rolls are the way to go with carbine stones for the getting through the sleeves. Any insight would be much appreciated. I'm making a bunch of mods since the bike is down waiting for my new clutch parts. Thanks! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDD Posted November 15, 2004 Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 Jason I would cancel that order for those templates. The season is on going and why not just keep riding. If you want to have a fast bike send your cylinders off to someone that knows how to make them fast. Granted it will take some time to get them back... waiting for the best quality is worth it. If you really want to port your own cylinders let me know. I can give you some more info about it if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynabanshee Posted November 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 Porting it myself is more of a science experiment for me. If it comes out great, then great, if not so great, no biggie. If I manage to screw up the jugs I know where to pick up a good set for cheap. Anyone have any info specific to the carb/jetting with this port? Not info for porting in general, but specific setup/results based on porting with the templates. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynabanshee Posted November 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 bump. bueller... bueller... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holeshotkid Posted November 16, 2004 Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 The only advice I can give you is take your time. I also used a carbide bit and a 1/4 inch die grinder along with the dremel. It took me close to 10 hrs to complete the porting but it was well worth it. I didn't mess with the tranfer layout. You can expect a very noticible gain throughout the entire powerband with the porting. Heed the warning about not going any larger on the ports than the template indicates. What you could possibly gain in performance by going past the template, I feel would sacrafice reliability. As far a jetting, I kept my stock carbs and went from a 270 up to a 300 main jet. I was running 19cc domes and had between 150-155 lbs of compression. While I didn't have access to a dyno, seat of the pants felt like about 10 extra ponies. I had a -1.5 inch swingarm and stock gearing and 5th gear power wheelies were not a problem. I'll be using the templates to port my son's cylinders during the next rebuild. I hope this info helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynabanshee Posted November 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 Yes, extremely helpful! Thanks for the input. I will be staying within the bounds of the templates and be very careful. 10 hrs, wow, looks like I'll be pacing myself over a couple days. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted November 16, 2004 Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 No way would I have the patience for that. I'd be done after 30 minutes, on the floor doing this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holeshotkid Posted November 16, 2004 Report Share Posted November 16, 2004 Yes, extremely helpful! Thanks for the input. I will be staying within the bounds of the templates and be very careful. 10 hrs, wow, looks like I'll be pacing myself over a couple days. =) 281483[/snapback] I paced myself too. I did it over a period of three days. You will need a good set of safety glasses because you will have aluminum flying everwhere. I also forgot to mention that additional lighting will probably be required to see what you are doing. It gets kind of cramped in that small of an area. I must say that by being patient, I had extremely good results in getting everything symetrical. I found that by using WD-40 on the carbide cutter kept it from getting clogged. Good luck and may patients be on your side while you are doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB3 Posted November 17, 2004 Report Share Posted November 17, 2004 (edited) When i did mine it took about the same amout of time but once i had it running on the street with the stock carbs and a 400 main and a 32.5 polit it ran its a-- off, but once i got it to the the dunes it didn't have any bottom end so i tryed a 370and a custom 470 jet i made and it was still lean on the top end in sixthgear so i played with it all weekend and still to lean no matter what i did so i am going with a bigger set of carbs maybe 30's or 34 mm carbs.But once i got going i was gone. Hope this helps Edited November 17, 2004 by BBIII Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightrider Posted November 18, 2004 Report Share Posted November 18, 2004 Just got a set from Mod Banshee,We'll see how they come out. BTW I would like to say I had good experience dealing with Mod Banshee,in light of all the recent scumbags we've had scamming us Hqers its nice to know we still have trustworthy people on this board. Thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod Banshee Posted November 18, 2004 Report Share Posted November 18, 2004 No Problem Nightrider I did My jugs with the Race Logic and it came out real good. I want from High 5s to High 4s in 300Ft. If any one wants to PM about Race Logic Templates I will help you out with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siezed-up Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 Just got mine dialed in perfectly today after the port job( Race Logic temp. and riased exhaust port ), milled head, pipes and K&N pods. If you end up doing this all I have to say is hold on. Oh yeah I live in Michigan and I went to 300 mains and 30 pilots with no adjustments on the screws or needles. Might be different where ever you live. Peace, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynabanshee Posted November 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 Ok, finished up about 95% today. After putting the templates back on there is a tad more I need to take out. I'll post results soon. At first I thought it would take an hour or two tops, because I only traced the exhaust and there is very little to take out there. Then I traced the intake ports and was like whoa, lotta metal to remove. The only thing I am a little weary about is the grinder slipped when chamfering the edges. I left a good little "grind" on the side of the cylinder running pretty horizontal. It isn't bad, but you can feel it with your finger nail if you are trying to feel and moving real slowly. Don't know if this tiny different could cause the ring to snag or what. In all, wasn't too bad. I tried everything to port them, metal carbine cutter, sanding rolls, grinding stones, etc. After spending wayyyy to much time on the first one, I started using a grinding stone that looked like the end of a big fat q-tip. Worked very fast. I would get one of those and spray it with WD-40 before using it, and every so often. For finishing use small sanding rolls. If anyone is interested in porting their bike with the templates I'll be done with them soon. Make an offer. I'll throw in the right angle scribe and Dykem layout dye (which was a bitch to locate) for the mapping. If you need a flex dremel attachment, I can throw that in for more. I don't think you can port it with any dremel without, they are too big to fit through the exhaust, at least both of mine were. I also have the carbine cutter and q-tip stone, neither of those which are cheap and still have some life in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 The only thing I am a little weary about is the grinder slipped when chamfering the edges. I left a good little "grind" on the side of the cylinder running pretty horizontal. It isn't bad, but you can feel it with your finger nail if you are trying to feel and moving real slowly. Don't know if this tiny different could cause the ring to snag or what. 283161[/snapback] A little wet 400 to 600 grit sand paper will smooth it out. Just take the bur off, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightrider Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 (edited) Just got one side done on mine.Cleaned up the port dividers too. http://www.bikepics.com/members/nomadbikers/ Edited November 21, 2004 by Nightrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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