sredish Posted November 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 I want to bring this back up. I let the motor go I was looking at, but just recently came across some cylinders, head and powervalves for around 5 bills and didn't know how good of a deal this was or not. Said to be unported and .030 over. I race XC and like a good overall powerband. Right now, my banshee is setup with a woods port and for low/mid power. How much more power would a similarly setup powervalved motor make compared to a standard motor. Should I just stay with the ported cylinders I have or would getting the cylinders and then getting them ported and all be worth the hassle? I also want to get a little deeper into the electrical setup. What would need to be done and how do the pipes attach, the same way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted November 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 Alright, I kept on searching and found that it's a 2-bolt flange that's needed to attach the pipes. As far as electrical, I'll need a battery and some other shiz, I don't know if that's all worth the extra 10 hp, it probably is, but I'm so lazy. I think the 5 bills for the cylinder is a little steep also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00BANSHEE Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 I had the MX port with my cheetah power valved cylinders. They were the smaller set at 392cc. They took a thrashing and were as durable as any setup. They dynoed at 80 hp with about 45 ft lbs of torque. Real smooth powerband bottom to top. The nice thing with the powervalves is you can gear it really high for some awesome top end speed and still have the power done low when you need it. If you are serious about going with a power valved motor for this race you can't go wrong with this setup. I believe the RZ jugs take a little more then just mounting them on the case. The power valves are electrical on the RZ jugs and take a little extra wiring. But BenBB or Meat could fill you in on those cylinders better then I could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broke Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 (edited) $500 is a little high. I bought my last set on Ebay, stock bore jugs with head and valves for $200, but that was a real good deal, $300-$350 would be about right for a nice set with head. As far as mounting them up. Cylinders do just bolt on to the cases. Flanges will need to be made. We bought the parts from a muffler shop and a friend welded them up for me. Powervalve servo has no real place to mount, so most just get ziptied to the frame. You will need a battery or some kind of battery eliminator, the powervalve controller, powervalve servo, CDI, regulator, wiring harness. Wiring is a pin in the ass, but not horrible. I did mine, Minkia had one running, I don't know if Meat and Ben have theirs running, but they may be able to tell you more. As far as "IF" it's worth it, yes. It's not really how much more HP it gives you, but how broad the HP and Torque curves are. For a XC or trail motor, they realy can't be beat for the price. Edited November 28, 2004 by broke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaxy Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 Sredish, I just bought a rRZ350 motor with all elactronics for $650.00 The motorcylce had 4600 miles on her. I took the head off and it is noticably different in terms of amount of cooling area than the stock banshee head. Also the pistons were stock bore, hardly any piston movement and the cylinders walls were in excellent shape. I am happy top say the learst. The motor looks really cool in a chasis, kind of square like a sled motor. From my understanding only PTR and Rocket pipes clear the powervalaves unless you want to dent a set of pipes. I looked through the RZ shop manual and all the internals except the tach hole and shaft, the plug where the vent hose comes out of the clutch case, the vent spigot that sits in the case and the interanal gears are identical to the banshee. From my expericne thus far all the extra holes that are part of the RZ motor have factory plugs to look just like a stock banshee. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broke Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I hope you haven't lost interest in the motor after these posts. The horror stories that have been written about the wiring are true, but really not that bad if you're patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 No, my interest was lost on the money. 5 bills is a little steep I think and then I'd have to get em ported, of course. I'd be starting a whole new project and the paint's barely dry on my newly pc'ed frame, so i need to let the dust settle before I dive in to another project. I definitely would like to do it though. Along with a battery kit so I can run a GPS and lights without dimming. One day, just not yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broke Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 There's another plus, RZ's are either 200 or 250 watt stock. I completely understand, once the snow started flying here, the Banshees have been pushed to the back of the garage and the sled pulled to the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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