sandornothing Posted October 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2004 I had it apart today looking at the stock setup to make sure i wasnt gonna be in over my head before i went and bought the key and fly wheel puller. I would think that putting a little anti-seize on the crank, not so much where the key goes, i'll be alright. With the nut torqued to 60 ft lbs on the taper, i doubt its gonna even budge anti-seize or not. Im goin for it, and im gonna use anti-seize because i might need to pull the son of a bitch out if its a "over heater". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightrider Posted October 1, 2004 Report Share Posted October 1, 2004 (edited) Its not uncommon for us to use 10 or 20 ton hollow rams when removing taper gears or flywheels on industrial equipment.We are talking about machines that exert 100-1000 tons of force.Some of those gears are no bigger than your head.A good taper lock SHOULD require the use of a jack, ram or puller of some sort for removal.Thats the advantage of a taper shaft,you only need to move that prop,gear,whatever a 1/16 or less and it slides right off.Versus a straight shaft that needes to be forced say 6 inches before it comes free. You got to also remember,Boats usually have some type of CLUTCH system that engages the props.That clutch will most likely slip if that kind of stress is exerted on the shaft.The banshee flywheel is directly connected to the crankshaft where it has no buffer.Different applications require different configurations.I've seen taper shafts with 1/4" keys and the same shaft with 3/4" keys. Anti seize does make life easier,but its not always the right way.Any time a shrink or press fit is required,use of antiseize should be avoided. Sandornothing,The keyway itself is the only place where you could get away with a very little bit of antiseize,but avoid getting it on the taper. Edited October 1, 2004 by Nightrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted October 1, 2004 Report Share Posted October 1, 2004 Nightrider, I'm not questioning you one bit, just letting you know that it works fine for my shee. Sounds like you know a hell of a lot more about it than I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 no doubt that no antisieze will definately grip a lot better and have less chance of slippage or shearing of a key. On the boats, we have corrosion problems especially where the shaft is stainless and the prop is bronze or NIBRAL. Stick a little bit of saltwater in the equation and its like welding the two metals together....the trannies do have clutches, but the shee also is free revving and doesn't really have any sudden jolts....it speeds up and slows down, but never stops hard or it would stall the motor. But either way, there is no wrong way. W/ or w/o antisieze on the shee will work. I've never sheared a key off w/ the antisieze and don't know anyone who has....Its more in the proper install and torque than anything...some will use it, others won't. I just like the easy of removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandornothing Posted October 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 Alright, whats the deal with the damn bolt on the crank? Do i need a impact wrench to get it off or what? Someone in here sent me a link to the "Banshee Zone" website and it said do not use an impact wrench on this installation, it could damage something in the stator. What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroker Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 Alright, whats the deal with the damn bolt on the crank? Do i need a impact wrench to get it off or what? Someone in here sent me a link to the "Banshee Zone" website and it said do not use an impact wrench on this installation, it could damage something in the stator. An impact wrench should NOT be used to tighten the flywheel nut. The Banshee Zone was probably referring to only the installation of the nut. I dont see problems using an impact wrench to take the nut off. Probably the easiest way and you wont need a strap wrench. Use a torque wrench and tighten to 58 ft/lbs. You will need a strap wrench during install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandornothing Posted October 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 (edited) If someone were to sit on the bike while it was in gear, and holding the back brake down while i crank it off (and torque it back on) would that hold the fly wheel in place or no? I dont have a strap wrench and im not looking to buy one if i have other options. Edited October 2, 2004 by sandornothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroker Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 I bought set (3) of strap wrenches today at Sears for $19.99. Not sure if they were on sale but it seemed pretty reasonable. I say go buy one. This probably wont be the last time you remove your flywheel. One day you'll want Boonman to lighten it. Besides, you'd be able to use it for a bunch of other crap around the house or garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 If someone were to sit on the bike while it was in gear, and holding the back brake down while i crank it off (and torque it back on) would that hold the fly wheel in place or no? i dont see why not. i wouldnt do it on a reg. basis, but in a pinch try it out. just mash that brake lever. do you not have an impact or shop air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandornothing Posted October 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 (edited) If someone were to sit on the bike while it was in gear, and holding the back brake down while i crank it off (and torque it back on) would that hold the fly wheel in place or no? i dont see why not. i wouldnt do it on a reg. basis, but in a pinch try it out. just mash that brake lever. do you not have an impact or shop air? No i dont, but ive got easy acces to both. Ive just got to load up the bike in the back of the rig and go over to the shop. I was just thinking i could knock it out real quick this afternoon after work before the sun went down. I keep and work on mine and my wifes banshees in our 24ft Carson toy hauler. (no garage for big tools). Edited October 2, 2004 by sandornothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightrider Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 (edited) This is what I did,I took a piece of flatsock 1"x1/4"x24" long.Cut a short piece maybe 4 inches and attached it to the end of the long piece(weld or bolted) making a T-shape.I then spotted the holes off the flywheel and drilled two holes in the short piece.I installed two grade 8 bolts (5/16x1 1/4"long)and jammed them with some nuts.I wrapped the threads in some electrical tape and there you go,a perfect flywheel holder.It will be long enough that you can let it rest on the floor and your hands will be free. It costed about 7-8 dollars in material from home depot and I've lent it out to alot of people and has held up well.Sometime when you don't have the right tools for the job,you have to be creative Edited October 2, 2004 by Nightrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 I took a piece of old bed rail I had laying aroud and welded two bolts that lined up with the holes in the flywheel. You could just drill some holes and run a bolt and nut through it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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