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shee's choke tube?


ehall1

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sup guys, somewhere here i read theres supposed to be an air hose connecting the carb with the mechanical choke to the carb with none? iv'e looked and theres no hose coming off the one and going to the other? besides fuel lines. is it supposed to hook on the other side of the primary choke as though you were lookin right through the choke and then go to the secondary were the choke pull would be? this might explain why this beast has been a m/f er to start since new two years ago. thanks ahead of time Ed :yank:

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yep just checked and its gone probably never been there. the picture helps a lot thanks guys. that must be why i had to kick the shit out of it to get it started and it liked to die when clutch was pulled in a lot if i didnt keep er reved up. think if its been off a while it leaned it good enough to screw something up? should i take the head off and have a look? if so were do i get new gasket and how much? thanks ahead of time Ed also no special tools needed right? just remove head and have a look? should i try and remove any carbon buildup why i got it off? as for oil yamalube 32/1 thanks again :clap:

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believe it or not could never get it started in mornin when cold always thought the choke didnt work so i carried a dawn detergent bottle filled wit premix and just gave it a little tiny shot and it fired right up always, then when warmed would always fire. as for compression tester i got one. whats stock reading? and can you get a good reading after its warmed by just the kick stater? thanks guys Ed

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believe it or not could never get it started in mornin when cold always thought the choke didnt work so i carried a dawn detergent bottle filled wit premix and just gave it a little tiny shot and it fired right up always, then when warmed would always fire. as for compression tester i got one. whats stock reading?  and can you get a good reading after its warmed by just the kick stater? thanks guys    Ed

Take the reading on a cold engine, ignition off, throttle wide open. Kick that mother until the pressure stops increasing, both sides.

 

Depending on you elevation and atmospheric conditions, you should be shooting for about 120psi per cylinder. If there are huge deviations in pressure, say 5~10%, between cylinders and/or you're below about 105psi give or take a few, it's time to open that bad girl up for some remedial measures...

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